Polar pro help!

[Brojon]

Yes - I was looking on Amazon and all I saw was the set that includes both PL and non-PL. I just want the PL filters which I think y'all call "vivid" - it only has the 4,8,16 but not the 32. My suggestion was to make a set that includes the ND32 PL and drops the 4 which is of limited value.

 

[PolarPro]

Yes - I was looking on Amazon and all I saw was the set that includes both PL and non-PL. I just want the PL filters which I think y'all call "vivid" - it only has the 4,8,16 but not the 32. My suggestion was to make a set that includes the ND32 PL and drops the 4 which is of limited value.

Apologies, it seems I misunderstood what you were looking for. You're right, we don't offer a set specifically like that, though the feedback is much appreciated. We do sell the ND32-PL filters individually on the following page if you're interested:

PolarPro ND32-PL

There is also a set we offer called the Cinema Series - Limited Collection, and this contains the most-requested filters that are not in either the Vivid or Shutter collections, including the ND32-PL. This can be found here. It sounds like one of those options would work for you, if you're primarily looking at the Vivid Collection but want the ND32-PL in addition.

- Oliver from PolarPro

 

[dwallersv]

I was in fact referring to video - that's why I mentioned banding which is caused by the rotors. 1/100 sec shutter speed is still higher than the more desirable 1/48. Given this I'm wondering if an even higher ND is required for sunny days.
Since most folks use the 32 I have to assume it works ok - just asking about the mechanics as it applies to video so I can confirm EV (exposure values) to use the 8 and 4 from the set.
So in a nutshell I was hoping for a list of EV's and corresponding ND filter with corresponding shutter speeds. It would make selection simpler on location, take a light reading pick correct filter and fly.

8 and 4 are useless on a bright, sunny day. They're for partly cloudy and cloudy days.

 

[dwallersv]

@PolarPro, naaaahhh, I think you're still missing it.

I'm a fan, and customer for cases, filters for both my Mavic and P4, and other stuff. I like your products.

So I'm resisting thinking the product structure decisions are nefarious and underhanded, designed to make us have to buy more than one set. I really don't think this, but I want you to know that it FEELS that way.

If you took a poll, you'd find near unanimous desire to by a 5 filter set with PL, ND4PL, ND8PL, ND16PL, ND32PL. You'd probably pick up the rest with a 4 filter set the same just without the PL filter.

Yet, you don't offer anything like this.

 

[Brojon]

If you took a poll, you'd find near unanimous desire to by a 5 filter set with PL, ND4PL, ND8PL, ND16PL, ND32PL. You'd probably pick up the rest with a 4 filter set the same just without the PL filter.
Yet, you don't offer anything like this.

I'd be ecstatic with a simple 3 filter set ND8PL, ND16PL, ND32PL
Truth be known I'd get by with just the 8 and 16.

 

[PolarPro]

@PolarPro, naaaahhh, I think you're still missing it.

I'm a fan, and customer for cases, filters for both my Mavic and P4, and other stuff. I like your products.

So I'm resisting thinking the product structure decisions are nefarious and underhanded, designed to make us have to buy more than one set. I really don't think this, but I want you to know that it FEELS that way.

If you took a poll, you'd find near unanimous desire to by a 5 filter set with PL, ND4PL, ND8PL, ND16PL, ND32PL. You'd probably pick up the rest with a 4 filter set the same just without the PL filter.

Yet, you don't offer anything like this.

We are extremely happy to have you as a customer, and appreciate your product suggestions.
If our customers would rather purchase individual filters from us we are more than happy to get them taken care of with specific filters as well.

We don't make anyone buy anything, we just make filter sets available for people to purchase.

Your filter pack feedback is appreciated and I will be sure to write it down and pass it onto our engineers.

-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[Brojon]

Here's a suggestion - mark the max spot on the PL filters.
I took mine out and eyeballed it but it would be helpful to have the indicator so the filter can be placed quickly and accurately.
Secondly a "warming" polarizer would be cool - something on the order of Moose Peterson's branded PL.
Finally - a gradient ND would be so awesome. I've noticed that once a bright sky gets in the picture the ground exposure suffers. Something like a 2 stop gradient to tone the sky down since that's what is responsible for the fast shutter speeds so something like a ND16-8.
I'd be happy to beta test

 

[PolarPro]

Here's a suggestion - mark the max spot on the PL filters.
I took mine out and eyeballed it but it would be helpful to have the indicator so the filter can be placed quickly and accurately.
Secondly a "warming" polarizer would be cool - something on the order of Moose Peterson's branded PL.
Finally - a gradient ND would be so awesome. I've noticed that once a bright sky gets in the picture the ground exposure suffers. Something like a 2 stop gradient to tone the sky down since that's what is responsible for the fast shutter speeds so something like a ND16-8.
I'd be happy to beta test

The filters can not be marked, because that mark changes relative to the sun's position in the sky, and the direction the camera is facing. It is recommended to align it before each flight for best results. let me know if you have any other questions.

-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[syke]

ND8PL, ND16PL & ND32PL please. ND4PL gets hardly used.
or have them available separately. I am seriously being hampered from purchasing the PolarPro filters because of the sets.

 

[PolarPro]

ND8PL, ND16PL & ND32PL please. ND4PL gets hardly used.
or have them available separately. I am seriously being hampered from purchasing the PolarPro filters because of the sets.

If you send [email protected] and email you can custom order individual filters.
-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[Brojon]

The filters can not be marked, because that mark changes relative to the sun's position in the sky, and the direction the camera is facing. It is recommended to align it before each flight for best results. let me know if you have any other questions.

-Jeff from PolarPro

Yes it can - photographers use it all the time - you orient it to the position relative the sun you want it. But you have to have a position to do so otherwise you're guessing.

Here's a Hoya filter - note the triangle orientation mark.

 

[Gerry65]

Yes it can - photographers use it all the time - you orient it to the position relative the sun you want it. But you have to have a position to do so otherwise you're guessing.

Here's a Hoya filter - note the triangle orientation mark.

That's cool. That would be nice. I eyeball and place my finger on the spot and put it on hoping it's pretty much correct. Having a market would be great.

 

[PolarPro]

Yes it can - photographers use it all the time - you orient it to the position relative the sun you want it. But you have to have a position to do so otherwise you're guessing.

Yes, technically a mark can be put on the filters, however the mark does not add any value, because it will be lined up differently every time you shoot. The Maximum polarization angle changes relative to the sun, and also relative to the way your camera is pointing. Mark or no mark you still need to orient the filter before shooting.

You are not guessing, you rotate the filter while looking through the monitor until you find the sweet spot for that specific scene.

So my question to you would be, why do you want a mark on the filter when it is going to be in a different location each scene you shoot with little to no consistency?

 

[PolarPro]

That's cool. That would be nice. I eyeball and place my finger on the spot and put it on hoping it's pretty much correct. Having a market would be great.

The mark would not benefit you at all other than confuse you, the angle of polarization is going to change relative to the suns position in sky. So the filter will be at a different angle each time you shoot. It is important to orient the filter before each shoot for best results.
-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[breid]

I, too, just purchased the Cinema Series - Vivid collection and I was wondering, what are you looking for when when you rotate the lens? I'm not sure how to get the proper orientation of the PL. I understand the ND part as far as reducing the amount of light hitting the sensor. Also, when you get the orientation of PL right, will only part of the flight be "good" video and not the other because you would flying the opposite way to get back home, if you were recording the whole flight? Thanks in advance!

 

[PolarPro]

I, too, just purchased the Cinema Series - Vivid collection and I was wondering, what are you looking for when when you rotate the lens? I'm not sure how to get the proper orientation of the PL. I understand the ND part as far as reducing the amount of light hitting the sensor. Also, when you get the orientation of PL right, will only part of the flight be "good" video and not the other because you would flying the opposite way to get back home, if you were recording the whole flight? Thanks in advance!

Here is a good video showing how to orient a polarizer:

You are correct on the orientation, usually if I am flying recreationally, I will set the polarizer to a broad setting, and it will reduce most glare in many angles. If I am shooting on a production, or when I want my content to be perfect, I will align the polarizer for each scene (Align, fly, land, repeat). It can take some effort but in my opinion it is well worth the added glare reduction and enhanced color saturation.

-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[breid]

Here is a good video showing how to orient a polarizer:

You are correct on the orientation, usually if I am flying recreationally, I will set the polarizer to a broad setting, and it will reduce most glare in many angles. If I am shooting on a production, or when I want my content to be perfect, I will align the polarizer for each scene (Align, fly, land, repeat). It can take some effort but in my opinion it is well worth the added glare reduction and enhanced color saturation.

-Jeff from PolarPro

Actually what I was looking for! You answered most of my questions. Now, to get out and do some flying and experimenting to get comfortable with it. One more question though, can you find the sweet spot of the PL by just rotating it right in front of the lens or would I have to actually fit it to to the lens?

 

[PolarPro]

Actually what I was looking for! You answered most of my questions. Now, to get out and do some flying and experimenting to get comfortable with it. One more question though, can you find the sweet spot of the PL by just rotating it right in front of the lens or would I have to actually fit it to to the lens?

You will definitely need to rotate it in front of the lens, then push it on all the way. The filter will not rotate when installed on the camera due to tight clearances on the Mavic.

Happy Flying!
-Jeff from PolarPro

 

[breid]

You will definitely need to rotate it in front of the lens, then push it on all the way. The filter will not rotate when installed on the camera due to tight clearances on the Mavic.

Happy Flying!
-Jeff from PolarPro

Awesome!! Now I can't wait to get off work! Thank you very much!

 

[Brojon]

Yes, technically a mark can be put on the filters, however the mark does not add any value, because it will be lined up differently every time you shoot. The Maximum polarization angle changes relative to the sun, and also relative to the way your camera is pointing. Mark or no mark you still need to orient the filter before shooting.

You are not guessing, you rotate the filter while looking through the monitor until you find the sweet spot for that specific scene.

So my question to you would be, why do you want a mark on the filter when it is going to be in a different location each scene you shoot with little to no consistency?

Not trying to be tedious but a point of reference is preferable to none. Many times I want to set the filter at an angle that will provide glare cutting but minimize the effect on the sky - very desirable if shooting a panorama at an angle to the sun. Usually lining up at a 45 will do the trick.
I would think since virtually every single manufacturer of polarizers places a reference on theirs would count towards my argument but perhaps not... Anyway - I marked mine with a sharpie - if y'all don't see the value then nothing I can say will change your mind.