24 or 30fps

akdrone · Mar 2, 2023

wisefish said:
I use ND filters all the time when taking stills for cloud/fog hyperlapse videos. The correct exposure values called for, without an ND filter, are often in the 1/2000 sec. range or higher and I like to bring that down to a level where the clouds and fog look softer. The final hyperlapse videos come out looking way smoother. I don't really shoot cloud/fog hyperlapses without an ND filter unless the correct unfiltered exposure value for shutter speed is 1/640 or less (dark cloudy/foggy days). .

good point. some hyperlapses can be done at 1/5 a second or slower

TrabSeyn · Mar 3, 2023

Make sure projects in your editing software are set to the same as the frame rate as your footage. 24fps video output from a 29.97(30)fps timeline will strobe in an ugly way. This is one detail that is easy to overlook especially when you have footage that is mismatched (30, 60, 23.97, etc.) Monitor refresh rates and ND filters aside, both which can create the perception of smoother/choppy footage, pale in comparison to dropped frames which appear to be poorly executed stop motion animation. Shutter speed is the next culprit, but everyone has a different perception so I'm not adding to that topic. Do experiment with your filters but double check your project frame rate before you go buy a set of NDs. If the issue is a simple toggle in your software there is nothing a filter is going to fix.

Droning on and on... · Mar 7, 2023

akdrone said:
Why? how?

To shift bright scenes to the lower noise range of a dual ISO sensor.

RogerDH · Mar 7, 2023

mightypilot2000 said:
To shift bright scenes to the lower noise range of a dual ISO sensor.

Cutting the light would shift to the higher gain, higher noise ISO.

akdrone · Mar 7, 2023

RogerDH said:
Cutting the light would shift to the higher gain, higher noise ISO.

Yep. Saved me time there, RogerDH

.

RogerDH · Mar 8, 2023

akdrone said:
Yep. Saved me time there, RogerDH .

Well, to be fair, I suppose there would be an ISO window where it would be true, but not in bright light. If you were shooting in low light and the camera wanted to use ISO 1000, say, but it would switch to the second amp at 1250, then using a mild ND filter might push it over the threshold, and you'd have less noise (although you'd need a longer exposure). If you have enough light to shoot at 100 to 800, however, then I don't think you'd want to use an ND filter to force it to 1250.