A few operational questions that I haven't found answers to yet.

[nondem]

I've got a few conservative flights under my belt now but not many...and even less w/the Goggles since I just got them. I've also never done a litchi mission but have watched some tutorials and have the general idea how it works and how to set one up.
Some of these questions would probably answered with more experience but I'm unable to fly during the week due to the short days. So, please excuse my temporary ignorance.

Does the video feed fail at a shorter range than the control functions? IOW - if I am moving away and lose video feed, does that mean the control functions are gone too or do they potentially still work for some distance further than the video feed coming back does?

If I set the video feed resolution to 720p instead of 1080p - will that potentially make the video feed more stable at extreme ranges where the signal is getting spotty?

Do the goggles communicate with the drone directly or is it all relayed through the controller? ...and on that subject - if it does communicate directly - will I have less range with them than with just the Controller?

When starting a litchi "mission" - if I set the first waypoint some distance away...say 200 meters. What does the drone do at takeoff? Does it ascend straight up to the altitude setting on Waypoint one and then fly to waypoint one at that altitude?
If the last waypoint in a mission is a distance away, when it gets there - does it wait there for further instructions or immediately go into RTH mode using the settings I've entered for that mode?

Last question: Is there some way to view the feed from one of the optical sensors(cameras) that are part of the obstacle avoidance system? The reason I ask is that straight up is one direction I don't think I can look with the main before flying....so if I've moved around below the tree canopy I can't look straight up to see if it is safe to ascend above the trees for the flight home.

 

[Mossiback]

...Does the video feed fail at a shorter range than the control functions? IOW - if I am moving away and lose video feed, does that mean the control functions are gone too or do they potentially still work for some distance further than the video feed coming back does?...

The video feed is the first to go. You will still be recording to the Mavic SD card. You should still have RC control but may be at the edge of it.

...If I set the video feed resolution to 720p instead of 1080p - will that potentially make the video feed more stable at extreme ranges where the signal is getting spotty?..

Makes sense. I have not tested this. I believe the Mavic already sends a lower quality video signal to save bandwidth but do not know for sure what level it is and which Mavics do it.

...Do the goggles communicate with the drone directly or is it all relayed through the controller? ...and on that subject - if it does communicate directly - will I have less range with them than with just the Controller?...

Can't say, I don't have the goggles.

...When starting a litchi "mission" - if I set the first waypoint some distance away...say 200 meters. What does the drone do at takeoff? Does it ascend straight up to the altitude setting on Waypoint one and then fly to waypoint one at that altitude?
If the last waypoint in a mission is a distance away, when it gets there - does it wait there for further instructions or immediately go into RTH mode using the settings I've entered for that mode?...

When using LItchi I have always set the first and last waypoint to my launch position. The first was to avoid the possibility you are asking about and to check my camera focus and the last to have it return to me if connection was lost. I also keep it in sight and have my thumb on the RC pause button in case I made an error in the mission.

...Last question: Is there some way to view the feed from one of the optical sensors(cameras) that are part of the obstacle avoidance system? The reason I ask is that straight up is one direction I don't think I can look with the main before flying....so if I've moved around below the tree canopy I can't look straight up to see if it is safe to ascend above the trees for the flight home.

Nope. Just don't do that. Descending into heavy tree cover is one way to lose RC connection; trees absorb/scatter the signal. If flying under a tree canopy it is best to keep it in sight and have RTH set to hover. Prop guards may also be a good idea, depending on how tight your lane of travel is.

 

[DanMan32]

There are no upward facing cameras, only IR sensor on M2.
But no, there's no way to view those cameras except when calibrating them with the Assistant 2 application on a PC.

 

[mrreddog]

The goggles connect directly to the Mavic.
I dont own the goggles, but I hear eveyone saying the range is shorter with the goggle, not sure if DJI fixed that yet.

 

[nondem]

Thanks to all for the replies.
About the range with the goggles: I also read where they affected the range. I can't say for sure if I noticed a difference in range yet but like I said - I've only got a few flights with them.
I did have one incident when flying 2000' or so away with trees in the line of site where the goggles went totally black causing a minor panic attack. I flipped the goggles up and found my tablet screen was working fine still so I chalked it up to a glitch.
Here in fl.us the land is nearly flat and full of trees and vegetation so "not flying with trees in the line of sight" or down in the canopy isn't really an option at all. I think the max elevation in the entire state is about 10'.
Short of being in a building or climbing a tree myself there are going to be trees involved. I just have to deal with them however possible or leave the AC in its case.

 

[Inspirephil]

Great answers to your questions guys! That’s what this forum is all about and why I check in here daily.

 

[Inspirephil]

Thanks to all for the replies.
About the range with the goggles: I also read where they affected the range. I can't say for sure if I noticed a difference in range yet but like I said - I've only got a few flights with them.
I did have one incident when flying 2000' or so away with trees in the line of site where the goggles went totally black causing a minor panic attack. I flipped the goggles up and found my tablet screen was working fine still so I chalked it up to a glitch.
Here in fl.us the land is nearly flat and full of trees and vegetation so "not flying with trees in the line of sight" or down in the canopy isn't really an option at all. I think the max elevation in the entire state is about 10'.
Short of being in a building or climbing a tree myself there are going to be trees involved. I just have to deal with them however possible or leave the AC in its case.

It’s not an issue only in Florida. I have plenty of trees to deal with here in Oregon too! and I just have to be careful with the signal I am getting and keep my eyes on the RC signal strength and the HD signal strength all the time to make sure I get the best possible signal.
One possible solution for you is to get the Titan Switch antenna amplified system. I use it for all of my drones and it works great for congested flying conditions. You can get it in either 2.4ghz or 5.8ghz and it comes with a directional panel and whip antennas in the kit. But you have to modify your remote control in order for it to work. It’s not difficult to do but I had mine modified by Titan Drones, Inc. just to be safe. The first one I did myself but I had my M2P remote modified by them for $99. There’s a YouTube video on how to modify it yourself if you feel like you’re competent enough to do it yourself. If I remember correctly I paid $235 for the entire 2.4ghz system originally and that includes everything that you need, (directional panel, whips, amplifier, QMA connectors, bracket, etc.)
The actual company name is Command Case, Inc. and you can look them up online.
It is also great for getting your signal around buildings and trees which is a problem if you’re flying in cities or other congested areas.

 

[MOONPIE82]

You only have inferred sensors for above obstacle avoidance but I'm pretty sure you can access that feed anyway

 

[sea157]

It’s not an issue only in Florida. I have plenty of trees to deal with here in Oregon too! and I just have to be careful with the signal I am getting and keep my eyes on the RC signal strength and the HD signal strength all the time to make sure I get the best possible signal.
One possible solution for you is to get the Titan Switch antenna amplified system. I use it for all of my drones and it works great for congested flying conditions. You can get it in either 2.4ghz or 5.8ghz and it comes with a directional panel and whip antennas in the kit. But you have to modify your remote control in order for it to work. It’s not difficult to do but I had mine modified by Titan Drones, Inc. just to be safe. The first one I did myself but I had my M2P remote modified by them for $99. There’s a YouTube video on how to modify it yourself if you feel like you’re competent enough to do it yourself. If I remember correctly I paid $235 for the entire 2.4ghz system originally and that includes everything that you need, (directional panel, whips, amplifier, QMA connectors, bracket, etc.)
The actual company name is Command Case, Inc. and you can look them up online.
It is also great for getting your signal around buildings and trees which is a problem if you’re flying in cities or other congested areas.

That's the system I have and I love it. It more than doubled the distance I am now able to go compared to the stock antennas.