Interesting... That make me think that 30 degrees is all they can handle for level flight. They initially go to 35 degrees to get initial acceleration, accept a slight sink, and then come back to 30 degrees for sustained flight.
Good question!
They are not rigid, by any means, but they do not flop over.
HOWEVER, it is vital to get them absolutely straight before balancing.
After sanding a set, the only difference I can tell is that they might be a smidge quieter. Maybe.
I work in a company with helicopters, and the tips of their rotors are swept back at almost a 45 degree angle. I asked why, and was told that this was to make them quieter by reducing the tip speed below mach 1.
I thought about cutting mine that way, but decided that the mavic just doesn't have that much juice. Still, they look cool, so I'm tempted.
I guess doing so would void the guarantee on the props. Oh well.
Oh well, guess I won't be using my DuBro much anymore. Hope they have good motor bearingsI don't think you are going to be able to balance these blades without a lot of work, the blades are riveted individually to the hub, so no disassembly. Due to the design good luck getting them straight enough to static balance, and dynamic balancing is not possible. In the Army we had trim tabs on the tip of each blade to do a vertical trim to get both blades swinging in the same arch, but with the short throw of these it's not needed. After inspecting my blades in a strong magnifying glass it seems there is very little to sand, just a tiny mold line, I am thinking you would not help much by sanding it. And talking about this drone doing 100mph is nonsense, neither the battery nor the motors will support that. If you want to go that fast you bought the wrong drone.
I will keep mine for my Phantom blades but after one look at the Mavic's I knew they wouldn't need balancing. The hub will pivot to balance weight distribution between blades as soon as RPM builds up, acting like a swash plate on a helicopter.Oh well, guess I won't be using my DuBro much anymore. Hope they have good motor bearings
Thanks for posting that video. I like the results of his test. Now I won't have to toss out my DuBro after all.There was a video showing a guy who used his DuBro to balance the Mavic blades. He spun them on a drill first to get them to straighten completely. Then, after mounting them on the DuBro, he was able to verify their balance. He did state that 100% of the blades he tested were completely balanced right out of the box. So it's probably not worth it. Now, if you're sanding off material, I think that changes the equation.
Here's the video...
There was much discussion earlier that the speeds displayed in the early firmware were way high. It was about the numbers you mentioned - like measured as kph and reported as mph. That may have been corrected but I'm not sure.I hope someone makes an extended battery that takes advantage of your thoughts on improving the aerodynamics. Also, I'm no expert on pitch angles etc, but I can tell you that I had my mavic in the first batch of shipments and it was regularly hitting 60mph (regardless of wind) before the first firmware update. Now I'm lucky if I can top 45 with a 30mph tailwind. It is funny and disappointing to see the drone at "top speed" while the rotors are only turning aroun 4k rpm when they are capable of 9800...
For those that don't know, the FAA allows hobbyist aircraft to fly up to 100mph.
<snip>
For those that don't know, the FAA allows hobbyist aircraft to fly up to 100mph.
Some considerations...
This isn't an airplane. The airflow is not front to back. This is a quad where the body is immersed in the downwash from the props. I also suspect it isn't laminar flow, but rather turbulent as the air from each prop intermixes with that from the other props. Airflow off props has a circular component. Light airplane vertical fins have an angular offset due to this twisting flow. The downwash angle is going to vary with the speed. Hovering it is straight down, when moving it's a combination of the downwash and the forward motion, which varies with speed. You would have to do a lot of research to figure what's best, and it would be different for a photo task than an long range task. Then any fairing adds weight and you have to trade the drag reduction against the increased weight. More weight requires the props to turn faster to get more lift. If you added fairings to change the shape as described you could easily make it worse in some or all situations. I seriously doubt you could find much benefit and you could easily make it worse.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.