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Air 2s lense correction

I looked in Raw therapee and did not find the info in their drop down menu for the 2S. There were a few DJI but did not see anything specific for 2S. I may be missing something tho.
You missed the importance of this sentence in post #20:
Perspective distortion is not part of the in-camera aberration correction process, you have to adjust the image manually to compensate for this.

What you are wanting to deal with is not a problem in the lens that can be corrected.
It's a problem with the way you want to use the lens.
 
I looked in Raw therapee and did not find the info in their drop down menu for the 2S. There were a few DJI but did not see anything specific for 2S. I may be missing something tho.
If you are only shooting JPG stills, you don't need a custom correction for lens aberrations. It is only when you shoot specifically for DNG (RAW) output that you find out the image file is written to microSD without any alterations applied to it.

Most editing suites use lens correction databases: either the proprietary Adobe version, or the independent LensFun database.

Neither of these have a great selection of correction presets for DJI drones and even less for other makes of drone camera. The presets in both databases have been uploaded by users... they have not been prepared by the camera manufacturer and are only accurate for any given definition of the word.

If you prefer to shoot in the RAW (DNG) format and want a truly accurate set of correction parameters for your particular drone camera, you are better off creating one for yourself.

If you download a RAW editor named Photo ninja, it contains a lens correction tab that is easy and straightforward to use, you can also hit the 'training' button that will store your correction profile as an automatic preset that will be applied as soon as the software recognises the camera model number. Photo ninja has the vertical (and horizontal) distortion slider in the same distortion correction tab.

Photo ninja is the only piece of paid-ware editing software I have. It is excellent and worth every cent for the one-off payment lifetime license.
 
I guess I will stick to Jpgs then if they are corrected by specific internal software. The other route is much too complicated for a my old brain. Thank you all for your input.......
 
I guess I will stick to Jpgs then if they are corrected by specific internal software. The other route is much too complicated for a my old brain. Thank you all for your input.......
Since you aren't needing to correct for any lens aberrations, what was described in post #23 isn't relevant to your situation.
 
There will prob most always be lense aberrations that should be corrected for and then the manual correction for perspective if needed. My problem is many years ago I did aerial photography with a hand held medium format film camera (yes I am that old) and this issue was minimal. But I have to say these cameras on my Dji drones are amazing in that they have as good or better results then my old film camera of the 80s. Its the wide angle issue.
 
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There will prob most always be lense aberrations that should be corrected for and then the manual correction for perspective if needed. My problem is many years ago I did aerial photography with a hand held medium format film camera (yes I am that old) and this issue was minimal. But I have to say these cameras on my Dji drones are amazing in that they have as good or better results then my old film camera of the 80s. Its the wide angle issue.
Re: film. Did you do your own developing? If so, shooting RAW is no different. The image file is still a 'latent image' (the equivalent of an exposed but undeveloped frame).

Pre-digital... back when the world was young and Duran Duran roamed the earth... I used to shoot analog for metric purposes (study, comparison, analysis) and you got to choose a specific lens for a specific job. Wide-angle is great for landscape long shots, but a pain in the nuts for a lot of other situations.

The more recent drones like the Air 3 and the Mavic 3 pro address this problem pretty well with their extra fixed-focus cameras, but perspective distortion with buildings will still remain.

There is one trick that will minimize P. dist before you start the editing process: shoot the built structure with the camera (drone) at a height approximately half way between the ground and the apex of the roof. Not ideal... but it does the job.
 
Hello. I admit I am having trouble adjusting to the wide angle issues and will have to start adjusting my shoot angles and distances. It is so tempting to get up close and personal when framing a subject property because of the super clear resolution from the tiny camera. I used a high quality zoom lense on my Mamiya medium format film camera years ago as I also flew my gyrocopter while shooting. Good old days......
 

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