Alaska Fishing 168mm
- Thread starter MikeReidPhotography
- Start date
Bussty
Well-Known Member
Nice shot! Is this where you live? Very lucky.
What I have started doing is if I hold my fist at arms length that angle of view across the fist is roughly the 168mm so the best I'm going to get is a single 168mm photo if it's wider than that but not much more wider than 2 fists width then I will use the FreePano mode and the 168mm to capture a much higher resolution image. Wider than say 2.5x fists right up to say 4x, use the 2.5x and FreePano. Only good for Photos and preferably not moving but can still make it work if moving.
The in-camera stitching is pretty good but best quality from an external stitcher say Panorama Studio Pro 4 which for things that might be moving you can edit the parts of frames that are stitched.
All that hard work gives you rather than one 12MP image way higher resolution than using the 70mm or 28mm. Say you had to use 6 full 168mm sensors worth of data to cover the view then that's now an image with 72MP of pixels!
Great thing is FreePano does it in seconds.
What I have started doing is if I hold my fist at arms length that angle of view across the fist is roughly the 168mm so the best I'm going to get is a single 168mm photo if it's wider than that but not much more wider than 2 fists width then I will use the FreePano mode and the 168mm to capture a much higher resolution image. Wider than say 2.5x fists right up to say 4x, use the 2.5x and FreePano. Only good for Photos and preferably not moving but can still make it work if moving.
The in-camera stitching is pretty good but best quality from an external stitcher say Panorama Studio Pro 4 which for things that might be moving you can edit the parts of frames that are stitched.
All that hard work gives you rather than one 12MP image way higher resolution than using the 70mm or 28mm. Say you had to use 6 full 168mm sensors worth of data to cover the view then that's now an image with 72MP of pixels!
Great thing is FreePano does it in seconds.
Not quite true, because of the necessary overlap among the 6 stitched photos which must be subtracted from the total stitched image size.
So probably closer to 40MP for six stitched 168mm images, depending upon whether the 6 images to be stitched are merely adjacent in one row, or composed of a grid of two rows of three images each, where there is overlap in between the two rows, as well as on the interior sides of each image.
Did you realize that the saved images on the fully automated in camera stitched panos, including Sphere, can now be JPEG and RAW? The Air 3S can do it, so I am almost certain the Mavic 4 Pro can, too. Not sure about the in camera stitched Free Panos, though. If the Free Pano in camera stitch is available, can you select both JPEG and RAW simultaneously for the saved images?
Bussty
Well-Known Member
Sorry misunderstanding didn't mean exposures, meant coverage
6 full 168mm sensors worth of data to cover the view
in reality this could be 8 or 9 or 10 or more exposures using FreePano with as you say the overlap but underlying image in this example would be 6x 12MP
Didn't know that about RAW / Jpeg. Just checked on FreePano only saves lpeg or none but actual exposures can be either raw or jpeg
Sorry. I misunderstood. Makes sense. In order to include the full diagonal corners selected of a 6 frame area, it has to overshoot within.
I like your arm's length fist being roughly the FOV of the 6x camera. Good rule of thumb/fist!
So, the question about Free Pano is whether you are able to simultaneously save the originals as both JPEG and RAW when an in camera stitch is available, which is apparently likely an option for the fully automated panos that generate a stitch? If no stitch is available in Free Pano because it covers too many images, you can still simultaneously save the originals as both JPEG and RAW, right?
Is there any way preselect the Free Pano C1 start and C1 end, and then change the camera without starting over, or do you always have to preselect the camera first, and are stuck with that camera? Example: it says no stitch using the 6x camera. Can you simple select and shoot the same frame area using the 2.5 camera instead to get an in camera stitch, or must you start all over, and reselect the same area with the 2.5 camera (which can be difficult to reproduce)?
So, when Free Pano says you have selected too many images for an in camera stitch, is there any way to save and still keep that selection, while then disabling the in camera stitch, so you can just execute the selection, as is, without a stitch, or do you have to completely start over with in camera stitch set to None, reselecting the area of coverage?
My biggest problem, when getting that message of "too many images" to do an in camera stitch, is how to exit out to retry with fewer images in a narrower area, to still get the in camera stitch. I can always stitch two "in camera" stitches together, if necessary, later, but I would like the camera to do as much stitching as possible. So how do you exit out from "too many images" to narrow the chosen area, without going back to the main camera menu to start over?
I've also noticed in a two row Free Pano that it will sometimes do a full row left to right and then reverse for the second row. At other times it will go left to right, but up and down at each lateral position. Is it just random, or have you found any logic as to when it chooses which order to shoot the 2 rows of images in?
Bussty
Well-Known Member
So yes you can save the actual individual exposures as RAW or JPEGS or BOTH. But overall panorama stitch just JPEG or nothing. I guess converting and stitching 880 separate exposures is going to tax the drone somewhat with all else that's going on.
Regards the preselection C1 C1 thing I have found if you have the JPEG stitch on and it says "Nope" if you go into Camera settings (I use the 5D middle button) and turn off stitch it will then let you take it without having to reselect anything. So that may be useful for you but you lose your stitch. Outside of that cancel is only option that I can see. But having said that I haven't tried the back button? That usually kicks me out to the Home Screen that you always get before you even connect to the drone.
Yes I have seen that it makes up it's own mind how it takes the FreePanos, couple of time I thought it was off and missing some out but no just a different order.
Cheers
Being able to save the originals of an in-camera stitch as both JPEG and RAW is a recent welcome change. No need for AEB then. The RAW images cover +/- 2 stops as needed, if the in-camera stitch doesn't work well because of too much exposure variation in the images.
I tried changing the stitch setting to "None" using the 5D button yesterday, after getting "Nope." However it didn't seem like it wanted to take it, although the green framing still appeared. I'll try again, knowing you have succeeded.
The "Back" button will likely still kick us out to the Home Screen, but worth a try.
Is there any way preselect the Free Pano C1 start and C1 end, and then change the camera without starting over, or do you always have to preselect the camera first, and are stuck with that camera? Example: it says no stitch using the 6x camera. Can you simply select and shoot the same frame area using the 2.5 camera instead to get an in-camera stitch, or must you start all over, and try and reselect the same area with the 2.5 camera (which can be difficult to do)?
Wonder if there is a good way to replicate the current 28mm frame with a Free Pano using the 2.5x or 6x cameras, other than mentally trying to remember some top left and lower right corner land marks?
I have a terrific 6x super-wide Free Pano spanning at least 90° that I'll try and share with you via a PM after I get it uploaded somewhere. It was 50MB.
Cheers!
Last edited:
Bussty
Well-Known Member
With that stitch "Nope" I think it tells you before you hit the play button? Are you trying to undo it before you hit play? That's from memory and just in JPEG actual exposures. I'm waiting for DXO Photolab before I'll develop RAWS I'll try again tomorrow though. Pretty sure it worked as I was amazed that's all I had to do. If you try the back button from memory it also reactivates as the gimbal down button from memory (customised to that when it's outside of Freepano mode)
I have thought of centering or maybe slightly up and to the right centering of the middle target in 28mm mode then switching to 2.5x to set the top right hand corner. There will be a sweet spot where it will be exact just a case of working it out, I need a brick wall
From there there you could definitely rotate down x degrees but the horizontal one is tricky. I polled DJI for that very thing over on the other forum(Air 3s I think) but I think the Freepano is way more flexible. Ultimate would be draw on screen in 28mm mode the shot you want then hit 2.5x or 6x and the drone does the rest. I think one of the enterprise drones has that feature but don't know if takes overlap with it or just a grid. Love to see the FreePano.
Cheers
Were you able to receive the PM message containing the link to the Free Pano?With that stitch "Nope" I think it tells you before you hit the play button? Are you trying to undo it before you hit play? That's from memory and just in JPEG actual exposures. I'm waiting for DXO Photolab before I'll develop RAWS I'll try again tomorrow though. Pretty sure it worked as I was amazed that's all I had to do. If you try the back button from memory it also reactivates as the gimbal down button from memory (customised to that when it's outside of Freepano mode)
I have thought of centering or maybe slightly up and to the right centering of the middle target in 28mm mode then switching to 2.5x to set the top right hand corner. There will be a sweet spot where it will be exact just a case of working it out, I need a brick wall
Love to see the FreePano.
Cheers
If not, send me a PM/Direct Message and I'll reply to it with the link.
I'll try again, once I get the "Nope." Better to have it without a stitch than not at all. I can always reshoot it after, to try and get the in camera stitch, by refining it.With that stitch "Nope" I think it tells you before you hit the play button? Are you trying to undo it before you hit play? That's from memory and just in JPEG actual exposures. I'm waiting for DXO Photolab before I'll develop RAWS I'll try again tomorrow though. Pretty sure it worked as I was amazed that's all I had to do. If you try the back button from memory it also reactivates as the gimbal down button from memory (customised to that when it's outside of Freepano mode)
I have thought of centering or maybe slightly up and to the right centering of the middle target in 28mm mode then switching to 2.5x to set the top right hand corner. There will be a sweet spot where it will be exact just a case of working it out, I need a brick wall
Love to see the FreePano.
Cheers
We'll need more than a brick wall. Need numbered bricks!
I agree that manually drawing the green rectangle over the 28mm view for a 2.5x or 6x free pano would be ideal! If they have done it for Enterprise, maybe they'll eventually add it to the Mavic 4 Pro. It has many of the Enterprise features already.
Happy experimenting!
Cheers!
This is two shots stitched in Lightroom. I never use the in camera stuff. Here's another pano from the south end of our island where the Stikine River meets the sea:
Bussty
Well-Known Member
Very nice Mike, way more opportunities opened up with the Mavic 4 Pro for photographers.
It's been superseded! Get what you can for it, and buy another Creator Combo as a backup bird!
Trying to get one myself. However, I'm now on my 3rd Korean eBay seller with no success. Lots of bait and switch going on, where they pretend to have them in stock, but then, after the order is placed, make all sorts of excuses for why the delivery is now 4-6 weeks later! They are merely collecting Pre-Orders but still falsely promising delivery in 10-15 days on the order page!
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