Plawa
Well-Known Member
I tried it, it did work for me.I read that it does not actually work. I will have to try it.
I tried it, it did work for me.I read that it does not actually work. I will have to try it.
You do NOT want to change ISO, on the Mavic it's best left at 100 at any time unless you absolutely have no other choice. Way better to use a less than ideal shutter speed than increase ISO.It would be nice if you could change ISO with one of the dials.
Robert Mitchell from BBH?
In my limited experience so far (12 flights) I have shot mostly video, but I'd love to be able to grab some stills every now and then. My biggest issue so far is just keeping my fingers warm (Maine winter) and not having my iPhone give out before my supply of Mavic batteries is exhausted. The phone battery is the weak link in the chain so far.![]()
Longtime 35mm photographer, new Mavic owner, I plan to shoot both stills and videos.
As I watched YouTube videos tonight about the best camera/video settings and played around with settings in the DJI Go 4 app, it seems to me that when you go in and make choices for your camera (still) settings and your video settings, they are not completely independent of each other.
For instance, I'd love to set my video at 24 fps and 1/50 sec, but I might want to set still photos for a much higher shutter speed like 250 that would in fact freeze any motion and not give me any possible motion blur. I might even want to set different ISOs for each.
Looks to me that even those you press the little icon with the arrow around it and it takes you to either still camera or video, some of the settings stay the same.
Also, if I choose RAW, should all of the Color settings (like D-Log or D-Cinelike) be irrelevant?
Am I doing something wrong or am I not able to chose different settings for stills and video? It would be a pain to keep having to change back and forth mid-shoot.
I completely agree as long as your subject is not moving, then 1/50 or 1/25 will be too slow.You do NOT want to change ISO, on the Mavic it's best left at 100 at any time unless you absolutely have no other choice. Way better to use a less than ideal shutter speed than increase ISO.
Note that given the gimbal stabilization it is not a problem at all to take a still at 1/50 or 1/25 as long as you stop the aircraft before shooting, which you'd usually always be doing anyway.
That works OK if you want to reduce the images for posting to the web or something. The full size Jpegs are awful and the captures from video will be as bad. The still images from DNG are actually pretty good considering the small sensor size.I wonder why would you want to shoot both video and stills when it is so much simpler to just extract stills from the video with an editor? Unless the aspect ratio difference is somehow critical, the best video settings will yield equal quality stills in 16x9 with no chance of motion blur.
You can increase the "sensor size" by taking multiple shots. When I shoot stills intentionally they are RAW and in portrait mode. Three or 4 overlapping shots,can be quickly taken and stitched to a higher resolution.View attachment 29162
That works OK if you want to reduce the images for posting to the web or something. The full size Jpegs are awful and the captures from video will be as bad. The still images from DNG are actually pretty good considering the small sensor size.
Good point made earlier, that stills can be take from video. Some users may not realize that, it no different than shooting jpgs.
I am aware of that and have been doing it for years before I had a drone. The problem with the Mavic stills is not the size but the stupid noise reduction they add to Jpeg images. If you view them at full resolution, they look like watercolor paintings. They are only useful if reduced. The DNG images are fine. See below (DNG on the left.)You can increase the "sensor size" by taking multiple shots. When I shoot stills intentionally they are RAW and in portrait mode. Three or 4 overlapping shots,can be quickly taken and stitched to a higher resolution.
Good point made earlier, that stills can be take from video. Some users may not realize that, it no different than shooting jpgs. They may be 16:9 but that's more compelling than 4:3. I usually crop stills to 3:2 or more commonly know 4x6.
PlawaI may be petty.. But it is different. Set the camera to 4k/30fps, shoot 10s of video, look at the file size. Then take 300 jpegs and compare the total size...
The difference in quality is not exactly huge but there still is a difference between a reasonably high quality jpeg and a still from a low bitrate h.264 stream.
Plawa
Video frames are stored differently than single jpgs. Only changes are stored after the first frame. That alone makes the images smaller. Sometimes if the stream starts to fall behind, more compression.
BUT, I totally agree with you. There is more compression applied to video than stills. AND settings like color scenes, sharpness, color balance and more are applied. SO, even though it's nice to know that stills can be extracted from video, ( like those times Bigfoot runs between the trees) it should never be anyone's standard procedure!
This would only make sense so that you would not have to continue to change the settings from stills to video. I’m new to the Mavic and drones and have just started shouting videos and stills....I got frustrated with adjusting settings. Hopefully a fix will be made.Is there a place here or on the DJI website for feedback/feature requests? I'd love to ask them to separate the settings, so that you can make totally different selections for stills and video without having one override the other.
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