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Arm replacement possibly gone wrong

Siebster

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Jan 24, 2019
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Problem? I ordered a new front right arm and replaced it and after the operation it turned on fine but I did not fly it. I then turned it on again the next day and I did not get any image transmission and I got a warning in the app saying the load on the gimbal was too much and that I should check if the gimbal clamp is removed (which it was) and so after a restart or two I gave up. Then the next day I turned it on again at home to see if I could get an image this time and smoke started coming out of the front of the chassis above the camera so I turned it off as fast as I could and opened it up again and none of the solder that I added is touching and the smell is worst in the front by the camera compared to the middle where I did my repairs. I mainly want to know if this is a lost cause and I need to start looking for a new drone or if anyone has any clue as to what might have happened

Was unit in a crash? yes

What have you tried so far?
: Originally after the crash I tried Bontic to seal the wing back together but it did not seem strong enough so I did a replacement of the whole arm with a brand new one.

What device are you using? Ipad air 3

What firmware are you running ( aircraft, remote controller)? newest

What Go app version are you using? newest version

Any modification? the replacement of the arm is the only modification that I have made.

Did you change anything or install any apps? N/A

Do you have a video or pictures of the problem? yes, here are before and after of the area I soldered, the before are the ones where you can see the break on the right side in the arm.
 

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DanMan32

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I don't like the looks of that black wire likely leading to the arm LED. Might have gotten pinched against a contact on the board and created a short.
 

Siebster

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I don't like the looks of that black wire likely leading to the arm LED. Might have gotten pinched against a contact on the board and created a short.
in that case would the whole drone be fried? I do not know a ton about this sorta thing but if I got a replacement main board would that theoretically work?
 

DanMan32

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Maybe. Lots of solder work though.
Perhaps have DJI Drone Services take a look at it. They offer free estimates and shipping.
 

AL GUY

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When doing a repair like this it is safer for the circuit board if you clip the wires a little ways away from the board and solder the new wires to the clipped wires.
I have done this for many years and it prevents heat or solder spatter from damaging the circuit.

AL
 

DanMan32

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I also noticed the wires weren't dressed along the body as they originally were.
That long white wire (antenna?) is also not where it was, but doesn't look pinched.

Multiply these 6 wires x4, plus battery power leads.
 

WithTheBirds

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When doing a repair like this it is safer for the circuit board if you clip the wires a little ways away from the board and solder the new wires to the clipped wires.
I have done this for many years and it prevents heat or solder spatter from damaging the circuit.

AL

What you propose might prove appropriate in many instances, likely not here and particularly with respect to the motor supply wires.

The motor fly leads are in fact simply extensions of the motor windings, typical light magnet wire. Each stand is separately insulated. To make the connection as you are suggesting requires that insulation be removed by mechanical means or solder bath immersion.

New motors have pre tinned leads ready to solder to the pads on the board. These are easy solder joints to perform for anyone with a basic soldering iron and minimal skills. You would really need to try hard to damage the ESC board.