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Auto Exposure SHIFT/JUMP anyone else?

sli-woody

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Hi Pilots,
I have notice an odd occurrence with the MA2 with the Auto Exposure video setting and when panning.
In certain situations there is a huge SHIFT or JUMP in exposure for no apparent reason.
Check these 2 videos out:

First one (This is one of my clips) the SHIFT happens at 5 seconds in:

The second (This is not my clip and is another pilot that has experience this shift) happens at 6 seconds in:

Now before anyone says "Lock the exposure" or "Go Manual mode" , yes I know this will Lock exposure, but that's not what I am trying to show.
In certain situations you may need Auto Mode (for example going from a dark area to a light area)
And yes I know Auto Exposure will change the exposure, but it should be gradual and not the massive shift as seen above.

I would love to get everyone's take on this.
Has anyone else noticed this SHIFT or JUMP in exposure when in auto mode with their MA2?
Has anyone managed to find out what is the cause or has any idea what could be the cause?

I took my MA2 out and tried to find out what is causing this massive SHIFT in exposure , but after 1 hr of trying, I couldn't get the MA2 to do it.
I have experienced it about 4-5 times and am mystified to what is causing it.

It seems in certain situations/environments??? this is happening randomly..

What's your thoughts Pilots?
 
Hi Pilots,
I have notice an odd occurrence with the MA2 with the Auto Exposure video setting and when panning.
In certain situations there is a huge SHIFT or JUMP in exposure for no apparent reason.
Check these 2 videos out:

First one (This is one of my clips) the SHIFT happens at 5 seconds in:


It seems in certain situations/environments??? this is happening randomly..

What's your thoughts Pilots?


Seems to me it is happening because of "Rule of Thirds" when you get to much sky, it corrects.
 
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If the ISO in Auto Exposure is already at the lowest value (as would be expected and desired in full sun), the only remaining parameter to adjust with a fixed aperture lens is the shutter speed, which can only be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments, which will show jumps. Auto ISO adjustments are linear and won't jump like shutter speed changes. You could add an ND filter to require a higher ISO value that could adjust up or down linearly instead, but that would just degrade the footage. If you didn't notice live it at the time of filming, next time turn on subtitles in the Fly app, to see the metadata in post of how the camera is adjusting the Auto exposure.
 
If the ISO in Auto Exposure is already at the lowest value (as would be expected and desired in full sun), the only remaining parameter to adjust with a fixed aperture lens is the shutter speed, which can only be adjusted in 1/3 stop increments, which will show jumps. Auto ISO adjustments are linear and won't jump like shutter speed changes. You could add an ND filter to require a higher ISO value that could adjust up or down linearly instead, but that would just degrade the footage. If you didn't notice live it at the time of filming, next time turn on subtitles in the Fly app, to see the metadata in post of how the camera is adjusting the Auto exposure.

Finally, something that makes sense. Thank you GAdget guy!
 
Finally, something that makes sense. Thank you GAdget guy!
I had to learn the hard way, too! For me, flying at sunset and after, the light is declining, and once one reaches the minimum shutter speed for the frame rate, the ISO is the only remaining variable, and its linear change is a welcome algorithm!
 
All the DJI drones that I have owned do this to different degrees. Many still cameras do this as well when shooting video. The only solution that is reliable is to shoot manual exposure with a -.3 correction,if desired, and adjust the exposure in post. I shoot in cinema d to give me the most flexibility in post.
 
Try iMovie for initial processing to eliminate noticeable dropped frames. Works for me.... then you can do further editing in another app.
 
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