Crete, Greece

gnirtS · Jul 18, 2019

A few from a quick trip to Greece:

RWD · Jul 18, 2019

Wow, those are great shots. Unfortunately it is quite painful to compare the water there with what passes for water here along the upper Texas Gulf Coast.... It must be a remarkable experience swimming there.

macfawlty · Jul 18, 2019

Very nice shots, well composed. It looks like the boat is floating above the water. Shoot any video?

gnirtS · Jul 18, 2019

About 15 seconds in a week. And 1 Hyperlapse.

Im primarily a photographer.

Edit:-

[media]
Its not great, Warp Stabiliser hasnt worked too well and theres still some flickering in the sky so i need to go back to the DNGs and try again,

Mossie42 · Jul 19, 2019

Those are amazing! Thank you so much for posting!

macfawlty · Jul 19, 2019

gnirtS said:
About 15 seconds in a week. And 1 Hyperlapse.

Im primarily a photographer.

Edit:-

[media]

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Its not great, Warp Stabiliser hasnt worked too well and theres still some flickering in the sky so i need to go back to the DNGs and try again,

I was primarily a photographer, but two things changed that 1) large-sensor DSLR video, 2) drones. Fortunately, one does not preclude the other, but cinematic video with a drone is a whole other dimension. My primary fault with drone video is that I keep forgetting to take pics.

gnirtS · Jul 19, 2019

The main issue is it requires multiple flights.

For photos, especially around water i use a CPL which you definitely dont want on video. So thats flight number 1.
Video you want an ND filter which you definitely dont want on still photos so thats flight number 2.
If i do a hyperlapse that needs a more severe ND filter you dont want elsewhere so thats flight number 3.

So 1 subject, 3 batteries then have to go home to charge for a few hours.

I do this sometimes but often its too much effort so i just do stills.

macfawlty · Jul 19, 2019

gnirtS said:
The main issue is it requires multiple flights.

For photos, especially around water i use a CPL which you definitely dont want on video. So thats flight number 1.
Video you want an ND filter which you definitely dont want on still photos so thats flight number 2.
If i do a hyperlapse that needs a more severe ND filter you dont want elsewhere so thats flight number 3.

So 1 subject, 3 batteries then have to go home to charge for a few hours.

I do this sometimes but often its too much effort so i just do stills.

Very good points. That's exactly my challenge. On a full-sun day, when I've got an ND64 on my M2P with ISO 100, 1/50 at f4 or f5.6, It's not going to yield the best quality photos, primarily because I'm at a slow shutter of 1/50, when it theoretically would be a lot sharper at 1/400 or higher.

So, I'm glad you brought this up as I haven't seen anyone address the issue in this context. The question being... 'How much sharpness are you going to lose with a landscape shot at 1/50? All things being equal, like minimal wind movement (right...). I could change aperture and/or increase ISO and shoot at 1/100 or 1/200 without changing out the ND filter... still not optimum. Like, what's worse, lack of sharpness or increased noise? Both are bad, but an unsharp photo is useless. NR in post is gonna decrease sharpness and these pics don't take re-sharpening well.

Shooting photos with an ND filter isn't a problem, it's just not preferable shooting slower shutter speeds to compensate for the filter. I could split the difference and use an ND32 at f8 say to shoot video, stopping to adjust settings and take some photos, but from what I understand, the M2P camera is sharper at wider apertures. I don't know whether that's accurate or not (somewhat counter-intuitive as most lenses are less sharp at their widest aperture). I always try to film at the lowest ISO as these compression schemes are noisy and blotchy at any ISO.

I guess if the photo really matters, I'm gonna set up properly for it.

gnirtS · Jul 19, 2019

The M2P gives perfectly acceptable sharpness from f/2.8 to f/5.6. That gives you 2 stops to work with at least. Personally id never go above ISO100 due to noise levels on stills though.

It does mean if you end up with a decent 1/50th or so at f/5.6 you can open it up to 1/200th at f/2.8 for stills and get a good image.

For stills the slower shutter doesn't really work if there's any wind or other movement (people, cars, trees, water etc) as its clear and obvious. Having 2 stops to play with helps a lot.

But as i shoot a polariser for specific images around water a lot i really dont want the banding and severe changes in sky exposure as i turn on a video so that rules out a PL usually.

All of the shots above were shot with a CPL to reduce glare.

Generally for a specific location or subject i'll dedicate to doing 2 batteries, a photo flight and a video flight (or 3 if i want a hyperlapse). This means i can cover it with the optimum filters for each scenario.
If its a small area or subject i may bring it back mid battery, swap filters and re-fly sometimes.