So if you are doing an orbit shot for example, you would still shoot manually in dlog? That is what I'm leaning towards. I still need to test dlogm with auto ISO in low light where I think the range expansion might be useful - but I would probably still exposure lock.
I rarely do video orbit shots (meaning spin the camera around 360 degrees?) because going at a nice reasonable panning speed that the viewer would enjoy (defined by me

) takes too long to complete the orbit and would be too much for any video I do and honestly I can't recall anyone putting in a full 360 turn of the video camera. If, by orbit you mean a pan of some amount to left or right, then yeah...Pro (manual) Dlog or DlogM mode for sure. If you are shooting with the sun in back of you and not panning too far it won't make much difference but if you shoot that Auto and the next pan includes light/dark areas you're screwed so I am almost always shooting video in Pro (manual) mode. Stills too. A video exception might be starting low, shooting trees in shadow and raising up to a landscape when you want the dark trees to be at a reasonable exposure and later, the landscape a reasonable exposure. That can only be done shooting Auto so my tactic on that kind of thing is to pan up (reveal) slowly so the transition of exposure is slow. I can raise the speed later in post. DJI drones shoot photographic panos including 360 orbits in jpg so Dlog doen't apply but when considering that scenario if you use Auto when you pan and get anywhere near the sun the earth turns too dark or almost black but in virtually ever case I want to earth to remain at the same exposure and the heck with the sky and clouds. Here are two examples of Auto and Pro done with my
Mavic 3 Pro (or Mav4?) with the DJI fly app creating a 360 pano automatically. These will show up on Facebook or Google etc as 360 panos. . The darker sky one is Auto. Note that the one with the darker sky was done closer to the lake so one would expect that the darker area of the lake would have caused the over all exposure to be lighter but the sun was so much brighter that the over all image shot in the direction of the sun was stopped in down making the lake almost black and much of the ground darker. Both show significant variations in tone in the sky but the auto exposure is even worse. Here are both image, with the
first large dark lake in front shot
auto, the
second 360 shot on
Pro (manual) mode. The
third is the real solution to the sky problem..photoshop in a new sky! Of course the fake sky does not work as a real 360 pano as the sky breaks for lack of continuity at what should have been the stitching line but it looks good as a flat image. The
forth image is for somebody that might want the darker sky and that super nice sun with the lighter foreground. That was done by layering both images in Photoshop and masking out the sky from the manually exposed images. It still retains its' 360 image ability. These images work as still images better than most flat panos

. Lastly, the
fifth image is what I might create for a show or maybe for sale, evening out the sky in Photoshop.
I have admittedly gone off script a bit here. I just enjoy drones, photography and videography as well as the challenge of post production.

So there. More than you wanted to know.
