The default seems to be locking it but should the opposite setting be better because the camera will be more stable hence less chance of motion blur when the shutter speed is low ?
Do you lock the gimbal when taking photo
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Other than the ability to tune the overall gimbal sensitvity I wasn't even aware it was an option, tbh, but I've never had any real issues with not getting a sharp shot apart from when I'm really pushing the limits with multi-second exposures in wind.
That's not to say I don't get some blurry shots, but for stills I'll generally compose the shot then let the drone hover for a few seconds with my fingers completely off the sticks so it can stabilise, then take a number of pictures at my chosen settings - at least one of which will generally be sharp. I might also dial in some manual exposure comp for possible later blending into an HDR as well if the DR is likely to be pushing the limits of a single raw, or tweak the shutter speed if I'm not totally sure on what setting will give the most pleasing results; e.g. for moving water.
In post, I'll generally aim to take the sharpest shot from each set and discard the rest, but if I'm shooting in low-light and the images are noisy then I'll stack and align any that are sharp, then blend them with the "Median Blend" filter. This basically picks the middle value for each pixel, so removes the "peaks and troughs" caused by noise and gives a much cleaner image without the softening effect of most noise reduction filters. Alternatively, I'll pick the best set of images for combining into an HDR/blend to deal with and process them accordingly.
That's not to say I don't get some blurry shots, but for stills I'll generally compose the shot then let the drone hover for a few seconds with my fingers completely off the sticks so it can stabilise, then take a number of pictures at my chosen settings - at least one of which will generally be sharp. I might also dial in some manual exposure comp for possible later blending into an HDR as well if the DR is likely to be pushing the limits of a single raw, or tweak the shutter speed if I'm not totally sure on what setting will give the most pleasing results; e.g. for moving water.
In post, I'll generally aim to take the sharpest shot from each set and discard the rest, but if I'm shooting in low-light and the images are noisy then I'll stack and align any that are sharp, then blend them with the "Median Blend" filter. This basically picks the middle value for each pixel, so removes the "peaks and troughs" caused by noise and gives a much cleaner image without the softening effect of most noise reduction filters. Alternatively, I'll pick the best set of images for combining into an HDR/blend to deal with and process them accordingly.
Not A Speck Of Cereal
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<ramt> This is another fine example of DJI non-documentation. If they documented this feature, it's not easy to find. However, the feature existed in the P4, so it was a known item. Perhaps it wasn't in the originally released Mavic code (DJI 4 screens) and so was not in the original manual. But it's also not mentioned in the release notes. They continue to have a documentation problem. <end of rant>
See the following video, which gives us a better idea (you may have already found this, but read on). Even in this video, he just says "it locks the gimbal" but does not say 'lock to what': does it lock it to the subject / target (while the AC is still moving), or does it lock it to the AC.
I think the latter -- the aircraft can be moving (such as with panning) and when you press the shutter with this feature on, the 3-axis gimbal will lock on target, which I believe means "attempt to remain in place, continue to be pointed to the same location as when the shutter was actuated, not moving with the aircraft".
What is still unknown: is it simply locking to a point in space (based on calculated distance to target), or does it use image detection? Probably the latter.
So the question remains, when would you want that setting OFF. I can't say for sure, but as a long-time land-based photographer, I can think of many examples where you would not want the lock. Probably the most popular example is action or sports photography, where you want to follow a moving subject (panning with the lens) and the specifically want the background behind the subject to be blurred (giving it more of an action look in the resulting shot). This requires a slow shutter speed as well, because even with panning, a fast shutter speed can freeze both the subject and the background. So slow shutter speed, panning, locking turned off (yes, DLSRs and lenses have image locking features as well), give good motion-blur action look.
I don't think there a lot of examples of this in drone photography, which is probably why this setting defaults to ON.
In drone photography, there are many examples of the aircraft moving -- when you want gimbal lock -- while taking continuous photography (where zocalo's advice above to let the aircraft hover for a second or two does not apply). During a hyperlapse or any other moving Intelligent flight mode where you do continuous shooting during the flight (waypoint missions, especially the panning at the waypoint curves) are good examples. In such cases, you want the AC to continue to move smoothly while taking image captures at intervals, and it would be a good idea at those times to have the gimbal lock on target for the duration of the shutter opening, then re-center for the next shot.
What I have not covered: video; the above is all still photography centric (as the feature itself might be, I haven't checked that out yet).
Chris
See the following video, which gives us a better idea (you may have already found this, but read on). Even in this video, he just says "it locks the gimbal" but does not say 'lock to what': does it lock it to the subject / target (while the AC is still moving), or does it lock it to the AC.
I think the latter -- the aircraft can be moving (such as with panning) and when you press the shutter with this feature on, the 3-axis gimbal will lock on target, which I believe means "attempt to remain in place, continue to be pointed to the same location as when the shutter was actuated, not moving with the aircraft".
What is still unknown: is it simply locking to a point in space (based on calculated distance to target), or does it use image detection? Probably the latter.
So the question remains, when would you want that setting OFF. I can't say for sure, but as a long-time land-based photographer, I can think of many examples where you would not want the lock. Probably the most popular example is action or sports photography, where you want to follow a moving subject (panning with the lens) and the specifically want the background behind the subject to be blurred (giving it more of an action look in the resulting shot). This requires a slow shutter speed as well, because even with panning, a fast shutter speed can freeze both the subject and the background. So slow shutter speed, panning, locking turned off (yes, DLSRs and lenses have image locking features as well), give good motion-blur action look.
I don't think there a lot of examples of this in drone photography, which is probably why this setting defaults to ON.
In drone photography, there are many examples of the aircraft moving -- when you want gimbal lock -- while taking continuous photography (where zocalo's advice above to let the aircraft hover for a second or two does not apply). During a hyperlapse or any other moving Intelligent flight mode where you do continuous shooting during the flight (waypoint missions, especially the panning at the waypoint curves) are good examples. In such cases, you want the AC to continue to move smoothly while taking image captures at intervals, and it would be a good idea at those times to have the gimbal lock on target for the duration of the shutter opening, then re-center for the next shot.
What I have not covered: video; the above is all still photography centric (as the feature itself might be, I haven't checked that out yet).
Chris
apeel
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I am pretty sure that "lock" means it will lock in on the scene (not locking it to the drone movements). This would prevent the 'scene' from moving around during the exposure. I say this because I also have a Osmo Pocket and it has multiple 'lock' modes, that are easier to see what is happening with a 3-axis gimbal. The gimbal of the Pocket and the M2 drones would work the same way.
On the Pocket there are Horizon, Tilt, and Pan Lock modes. A 'Full Lock" keeps the Horizon straight, prevents Tilt and Pan movements. So the camera always points in same direction, keeping the 'scene' being recorded by the camera 'locked' and stable, independent of device movements. The Osmo Pocket also has a FPV (First Person View) mode like the Mavic 2 and this is described as fully "UNLOCKED". In the FPV mode, the camera basically keeps the camera orientation tied to the position of the Osmo Pocket, resulting in the Horizon moving, and the camera panning and tilting as the device pans and tilts.
So from this, I conclude that 'locking' the camera during exposure is going to try to do it's best to keep the 'scene' from moving during exposure, which is what you typically want to do when taking a sharp photo.
If you are interested in the different types of gimbal locks on the Osmo Pocket (which helps understand how all 3-axis gimbals work), check out this YouTube Video which I found VERY helpful.
On the Pocket there are Horizon, Tilt, and Pan Lock modes. A 'Full Lock" keeps the Horizon straight, prevents Tilt and Pan movements. So the camera always points in same direction, keeping the 'scene' being recorded by the camera 'locked' and stable, independent of device movements. The Osmo Pocket also has a FPV (First Person View) mode like the Mavic 2 and this is described as fully "UNLOCKED". In the FPV mode, the camera basically keeps the camera orientation tied to the position of the Osmo Pocket, resulting in the Horizon moving, and the camera panning and tilting as the device pans and tilts.
So from this, I conclude that 'locking' the camera during exposure is going to try to do it's best to keep the 'scene' from moving during exposure, which is what you typically want to do when taking a sharp photo.
If you are interested in the different types of gimbal locks on the Osmo Pocket (which helps understand how all 3-axis gimbals work), check out this YouTube Video which I found VERY helpful.
I have never locked the gimbal on my M2P... didn’t know you could. When you take a photo it’s automatic in SW. if the shutter speed is low there will be an unavoidable motion blur... many thick a little is pleasing to the eye in videos.
Record in manual and get familiar with the results you get from different exposures. You can adjust the shutter speed to allow this in almost any lighting.
apeel
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In the camera settings, there is a setting called "Lock Gimbal When Capture" with the ability to ENABLE or DISABE this feature. I believe it is ENABLED by default, which explains why you never have had to do it manually. Also, based on my understanding of what DJI means when it is "locked", enabling this feature by default is the correct setting if you want rock solid and sharp images. The original poster thought that "locked" meant "locked to the frame of the drone" rather than "locked on the scene".
Yes, it's enabled by default. I have asked the DJI technical support people today whether "locking" means locking the motors of the gimbal or getting the camera locked to the subject and the answer was locking the gimbal motors. I asked what good it will do and explained that locking the gimbal motor means that the camera will move with the drone during exposure and that will end up in blurry pictures. They told me to turn off the feature if it's not needed. The purpose of locking is therefore still a puzzle.
Not A Speck Of Cereal
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By "DJI technical support people", do you mean a DJI employee that replied to your question on the DJI forums? Because those particular DJI employees have been wrong before (not that technical, and not the people that actually designed or work on the technology there).
Because I don't believe it. Not only what that feature be a mystery still if true, it would be even MORE a mystery why they would turn it on by default (if it was a 3-axis gimbal defeating lock). There would have been MASS complains from people having blurry images from their flying cameras with non-operational gimbals.
Edit: Got a link to that conversation (if it was public)? I would like to join.
Chris
apeel
Well-Known Member
Hmmm ... I wonder if DJI Support misunderstood the question or answered incorrectly. That said, I guess it will take some actual testing to see if I am right or DJI Tech Support is right. Should not be too difficult, just move move the drone around in relatively low light (you don't need to be flying) as you snap a photo (do not need to be flying). Repeat with feature enabled and disabled. See which one works better. Anyone care to give this experiment a try and report back?
Not on the forum. Here you can chat with their technical support people on line. They didn't realize that there is such a function until I told them.
Not A Speck Of Cereal
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Did anyone play the video above? I'll paste the URL again below for ease and comfort. If I you don't have time, just jump to about the 1 minute mark and you'll have your answer quickly.
Chris
Not A Speck Of Cereal
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So, did they put you on hold to go ask a higher tier expert?
Or did they just guess what the feature was after admitting they didn't even know it existed until then?
Chris
apeel
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Typos Corrected:
Well, if they did not know the feature existed, I certainly would not believe any answer they gave about it. Clearly they misunderstood what you were asking.
Oops. I forgot to check out the video. It answers the question definitively and is actually performing the experiment I suggested. Enable the feature by default is definitely the way to go. And the 'lock' refers to keeping the scene 'locked' not locking the gimbal motors.
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Not A Speck Of Cereal
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I was in the process of doing my own quick and dirty test. The LOCKED version on the left is not super sharp, but that's just because, well, as I said: quick and dirty. But they were both with the AC being panned from right to left at about the same speed (note: not just the blurred glove-mold, but also the Sony logo on the device behind it):
Perhaps someone could mention to that DJI tech that they reached into their guess bag, they chose poorly.
Eh?
Perhaps someone could mention to that DJI tech that they reached into their guess bag, they chose poorly.
Eh?
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