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HDR PHOTO IDENTIFICATION

Kerry

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Please help.

Today I was experimenting with my Mavic Pro Platinum in different shooting modes, including HDR. But looking through my photos on my card I cannot tell which ones are the HDR files. I've checked in Properties but can't see anything indicating a HDR mode. So question is: How do I determine which frames are my HDR shots?
 
No idea. I use a nifty little tool on my PC called MediaInfo. It shows no difference betweeen a standard jpg and one shot HDR. I know the multiple exposures for HDR are happening (obvious in certain types of shots), but nothing in metadata indicates it.
 
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Please help.

Today I was experimenting with my Mavic Pro Platinum in different shooting modes, including HDR. But looking through my photos on my card I cannot tell which ones are the HDR files. I've checked in Properties but can't see anything indicating a HDR mode. So question is: How do I determine which frames are my HDR shots?

I don’t know. But keep checking in. Because if anyone can help. It would be OLD MAN MAVIC. So right now it’s probably night time across the pond. So be patient help is on the way.
 
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When looking at the pictures in the fly app album in the lower left-hand corner is an icon that will tell you in what mode the photo was taken. Nice to see a lovely young lady joining the forum
 
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The HDR video results in expected metadata, with 10-bit color depth to support the higher dynamic range. Photos show 8-bit color depth.

View attachment 112321View attachment 112322

JPEG is always 8 bit. There may be other things in the meta data - usually in things like the maker note field - to indicate special camera settings, you'd need something like exiftool to find it.
 
JPEG is always 8 bit. There may be other things in the meta data - usually in things like the maker note field - to indicate special camera settings, you'd need something like exiftool to find it.

Dang, you're right. mediainfo is useless for photos. I imported photo into LightRoom and it showed no information, but then my version of Lightroom is 5 yrs old, so possibly pre-HDR. Anyway, this wkend I'll check out exiftool. Thanks.
 
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I know it's hindsight, but I kind of had that issue a while ago, and just started saving the image files with an "hdr" in the file name, and then save 'em in an HDR subdirectory...
All marked and separate.
 
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I know it's hindsight, but I kind of had that issue a while ago, and just started saving the image files with an "hdr" in the file name, and then save 'em in an HDR subdirectory...
All marked and separate.
Is there a setting in the DJI Go 4 app where you can specify the format or some text in the filename?
 
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Please help.

Today I was experimenting with my Mavic Pro Platinum in different shooting modes, including HDR. But looking through my photos on my card I cannot tell which ones are the HDR files. I've checked in Properties but can't see anything indicating a HDR mode. So question is: How do I determine which frames are my HDR shots?

Not direct;y on point, but the differences between the HDR vs normal shots on my M2P are not easily discernible.

One should be able to tell just looking at the photos.

Shooting brackets and assembling them with HDR software is MUCH more satisfying. Aurora HDR works well and is not as spendy as Lightoom
 
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I might be off target here but,.. an HDR photo is a result from several pictures as opposed to being a single picture. That is unless you are using a specific app that 'makes' the HDR picture.
My point is typically you take several photos all exposed at different exposures and sandwich them together; one under exposed, one over and one right on.
Am I missing something here in this topic.
ps- for best results you should use DNG format pictures as jpegs are just an ok format. Apology if I'm not getting something here...
 
I might be off target here but,.. an HDR photo is a result from several pictures as opposed to being a single picture. That is unless you are using a specific app that 'makes' the HDR picture.
My point is typically you take several photos all exposed at different exposures and sandwich them together; one under exposed, one over and one right on.
Am I missing something here in this topic.
ps- for best results you should use DNG format pictures as jpegs are just an ok format. Apology if I'm not getting something here...
I think you are right on target. The Mavic two pro does have a setting called “HDR,” but I’m pretty sure that is a misnomer for whatever the camera is doing. Based on the output, it seems highly unlikely that it is a tonemapped composite of bracketed images. That’s probably why I can’t tell v much difference between the AC’s so -called “HDR“ images and its normal photos. The point for me is that that HDR setting is pointless.
 
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Ahh, thx for that as it does help. I've never liked a app doing this kind of work for me as I prefer to have input as to what gets done in tonemapping- it's very subjective. For me, half the fun of photography is developing my ideas/intent into the final product. Using s/w to do that makes it very creative. Having it done for me isn't. YMMV
 
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I think you are right on target. The Mavic two pro does have a setting called “HDR,” but I’m pretty sure that is a misnomer for whatever the camera is doing. Based on the output, it seems highly unlikely that it is a tonemapped composite of bracketed images. That’s probably why I can’t tell v much difference between the AC’s so -called “HDR“ images and its normal photos. The point for me is that that HDR setting is pointless.
The M2P HDR does something. First it takes a lot longer to finish taking the picture vs normal. I also did a number of photos of the exact same scenes in both HDR and normal and there is a slight improvement in pulling detail out of the shadows. I would not classify it as dramatic, the improvement is subtle at best. I think I read somewhere that the bracketing is less than 1eV but I am not sure.
 
The M2P HDR does something. First it takes a lot longer to finish taking the picture vs normal. I also did a number of photos of the exact same scenes in both HDR and normal and there is a slight improvement in pulling detail out of the shadows. I would not classify it as dramatic, the improvement is subtle at best. I think I read somewhere that the bracketing is less than 1eV but I am not sure.
I did the same type of comparison and found the difference to be subtle as well.
 
Difference between hdr and single exposure depends on the composition. Pictures with a large areas of greatly differing brightness will benefit a lot by hdr. It’ll be obvious.

I’ll take a shot tomorrow and post. If I remember :)
 
I took these two pics just seconds apart. Note that the indoor table is exposed the exact same in both pics, but the second picture properly exposes the outdoor scene (well, #2 is better anyway). #2 is HDR.

It's pretty slow on the M2P, but it is useful for scenes like this. I don't know if I'll recognize the time to use it or not, we'll just have to wait and see. I don't think I've ever taken an HDR photo except for testing.

1599483023627.png

1599483032103.png
 
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I took these two pics just seconds apart. Note that the indoor table is exposed the exact same in both pics, but the second picture properly exposes the outdoor scene (well, #2 is better anyway). #2 is HDR.

It's pretty slow on the M2P, but it is useful for scenes like this. I don't know if I'll recognize the time to use it or not, we'll just have to wait and see. I don't think I've ever taken an HDR photo except for testing.

View attachment 112572

View attachment 112573
Hi Andrew - thanks for posting these. Your results seem to be a bit more than mine. Are these Jpegs right out of the camera?
 
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