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How do you shoot a hyperlapse sunset?

Dangerly

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What ND Filter would you use for a hyperlapse sunset over the water? It starts off pointed right at the sun but then the sun sets.

Is it possible to change exposure settings as the hyperlapse is in progress?

Would you shoot in raw and color in post?

Would you use 4K or 8K?

What's the longest hyperlapse you can shoot, given battery constraints?

I'll be re-shooting this same scene over the coming weeks - playing around with different settings. Burns a whole battery to make one.
 

Dale D

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What ND Filter would you use for a hyperlapse sunset over the water? It starts off pointed right at the sun but then the sun sets.

Is it possible to change exposure settings as the hyperlapse is in progress?

Would you shoot in raw and color in post?

Would you use 4K or 8K?

What's the longest hyperlapse you can shoot, given battery constraints?

I'll be re-shooting this same scene over the coming weeks - playing around with different settings. Burns a whole battery to make one.
I too would love to know your techniques.

Dale
 
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Tolly

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What ND Filter would you use for a hyperlapse sunset over the water? It starts off pointed right at the sun but then the sun sets.

Is it possible to change exposure settings as the hyperlapse is in progress?

Would you shoot in raw and color in post?

Would you use 4K or 8K?

What's the longest hyperlapse you can shoot, given battery constraints?

I'll be re-shooting this same scene over the coming weeks - playing around with different settings. Burns a whole battery to make one.
Brilliant question, I don't know either but I'll be watching the expert replies with interest :)
 

Robert Prior

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AFAIK there is no way to adjust the exposure during a hyperlapse, but I could easily be wrong. I've shot timelapses with a DSLR and changing light levels can require a lot of work to deal with. (Even dealing with minute differences in exposure between shots requires some post-processing.)

I would use whatever filter was necessary for a bit of motion blur, so 1/50 shutter speed for 24 fps or 1/60 for 30 fps. I didn't do that with my timelapses and I wish I had — lesson learned for next time I shoot one.

If you have the option of shooting in Raw then I would do that, because you can recover more shadow/highlight detail and thus have more options for ramping the exposure in post-processing.
 

CanadaDrone

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What ND Filter would you use for a hyperlapse sunset over the water? It starts off pointed right at the sun but then the sun sets.

Is it possible to change exposure settings as the hyperlapse is in progress?

Would you shoot in raw and color in post?

Would you use 4K or 8K?

What's the longest hyperlapse you can shoot, given battery constraints?

I'll be re-shooting this same scene over the coming weeks - playing around with different settings. Burns a whole battery to make one.

You use whatever ND filter results in the exposure you are trying to achieve - there is no rule there.

Not sure why you would want to change exposure mid-hyperlapse, that will give you uneven footage. Generally that is not what you want.

Always better to shoot in D-Log / RAW and grade in post if you are able, especially for shots directly into the sun so you can take advantage of maximum dynamic range

Always better to shoot in the highest resolution possible, all else equal.

You should be able to shoot Hyperlapse as long as the battery will allow. Be sure to return home around 20% battery remaining, your batteries will thank you and you are far less likely to ever have an issue that way.
 

Robert Prior

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Not sure why you would want to change exposure mid-hyperlapse, that will give you uneven footage. Generally that is not what you want.
Exposure ramping is a way to do those day-to-night (or vice-versa) timelapses. The idea is to gradually change the exposure to mirror what your eye does as it adapts to changing light levels.

It's the reason I backed the Arsenal remote on Kickstarter. Then Covid hit and I haven't had the chance to take the shots I'd planned on…
 

Dale D

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Brilliant question, I don't know either but I'll be watching the expert replies with interest :)
Exposure ramping is a way to do those day-to-night (or vice-versa) timelapses. The idea is to gradually change the exposure to mirror what your eye does as it adapts to changing light levels.

It's the reason I backed the Arsenal remote on Kickstarter. Then Covid hit and I haven't had the chance to take the shots I'd planned on…
Robert Prior is correct in stating that exposure ramping is the correct way to do the so-called Holy Grail timelapses. These are dramatic changes in dynamic range from day to night (sunset) or night to day (sunrise). The technique with a DSLR is to change the aperture, ISO, and shutter if there is a change in the light 1 stop) . I must admit that I am too lazy to do this and have been doing my timelapsese mostly with Apeture preferred settings. This, of course, has the complication of flicker, but with the software I use (LRTimelapse5) this is minimized. I have been trying to accomplish this with the Mavic 2 Pro but so far, the main problem I have is wobble and none one this forum has really told me how to correct it.
 

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