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How long can you fly mini 3?

I fly mapping projects which need more than 1 or 2 batteries back2back without any overheating problems
I have had my Mini 3 on and waiting for take off to capture events for extended periods of time and actually received a camera overheat warning. I had to shut down completely for a cool down period. So, leaving the UAS on for extended periods without flying appears to be a problem.



At the back of my UAS, there is a USB-C port that I thought that I could plug into AC power and perform a battery hot swap. Much to my chagrin - this wasnt the case. I believe that is purely a data port.



Does anyone know of a method to hot swap batteries on a DJI MINI 3?
 
I have had my Mini 3 on and waiting for take off to capture events for extended periods of time and actually received a camera overheat warning. I had to shut down completely for a cool down period. So, leaving the UAS on for extended periods without flying appears to be a problem.

Very much depends on ambient temps. I can see this happening if hovering for a long time in warm/hot weather.

Does anyone know of a method to hot swap batteries on a DJI MINI 3?

Can't be done.
 
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Will the RC Controller stay charged for 3 flight batteries?
I've used the RC1A: RC1B and the RC-N1 for years now and I find that all three discharge at a rate of *about* 30% per flight battery, so in my case: Yes, but having a high NIT built-in screen may impact on that.
 
I've used the RC1A: RC1B and the RC-N1 for years now and I find that all three discharge at a rate of *about* 30% per flight battery, so in my case: Yes, but having a high NIT built-in screen may impact on that.
I think you will find that the charge rate for the phone is around 0.5A or less.
There are USB in line ammeters that you can measure the current with.
 
I typically drain 3 flight batteries long before the mini3pro controller with screen runs out of battery.
 
I think you will find that the charge rate for the phone is around 0.5A or less.
There are USB in line ammeters that you can measure the current with.
You got me well confused there..... I took it that by ".... will the RC controller stay charged...": WNYBill was referring to the RC (built-in android screen).

If there's one DJI feature I think is a massive pain: it's the way the controller sacrifices part of its own charge to boost the battery in the phone/tablet. Dumb idea. I'd rather have a dead screen and a controller with enough charge left in it to bring the drone home under control than have a nice bright screen and a dead controller.
 
If there's one DJI feature I think is a massive pain: it's the way the controller sacrifices part of its own charge to boost the battery in the phone/tablet.
That's not a DJI feature.
It's an unavoidable "feature" of the Android system.
 
You got me well confused there..... I took it that by ".... will the RC controller stay charged...": WNYBill was referring to the RC (built-in android screen).

If there's one DJI feature I think is a massive pain: it's the way the controller sacrifices part of its own charge to boost the battery in the phone/tablet. Dumb idea. I'd rather have a dead screen and a controller with enough charge left in it to bring the drone home under control than have a nice bright screen and a dead controller.
Sorry for the confusion.
WNYBill might be referring to a smart controller but the controllers that you listed all use a phone or tablet and I was replying to your post, not WNYBill's.

With regards to the charging of a phone by the controller.
I have the recollection that it is stipulated by the rules governing the connection to a 'device' that the controller supplies power to the device. I don't remember if that is a USB stipulation or an Android stipulation or both

I can't remember the explanation for iOS devices drawing less current.

The P3 controller also supplies 0.5A but that's via a full sized USB port, both ports on the mavic 2 controller supply appreciable current to a connected device.
I haven't checked the amperage of the USB-C port on the RC-N1 but an android phone registers a charging current.

With the fold-out-arm controllers you can always use a spliiter cable which passes most of the load to the 'auxillary' battery, though I don't remember trying that with full sized USB ports and I haven't tried it with the RC-N1.
 
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