How to reposition a Panorama?

[fguthrie]

When I do a Pano on the M2P (Although I believe this is not limited to the M2P), I want the photo to show more ground and less sky (see attached). I don't see anything in the settings to accomplish this, but was wondering if there is some manual way to achieve repositioning the gimbal to obtain the desired result. Thoughts? Thank you.

 

[Phantomrain.org]

The only way I have sorted that out is to take the picture at different heights , So I take one at 100 ft 250 and 350 ish and simply get the best one with a small crop.

Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly in the Rain an Capture the Storm

 

[fguthrie]

The only way I have sorted that out is to take the picture at different heights , So I take one at 100 ft 250 and 350 ish and simply get the best one with a small crop.

Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly in the Rain an Capture the Storm

Thanks! That is an interesting idea that I will try.

 

[Chrislaf]

When I do a Pano on the M2P (Although I believe this is not limited to the M2P), I want the photo to show more ground and less sky (see attached). I don't see anything in the settings to accomplish this, but was wondering if there is some manual way to achieve repositioning the gimbal to obtain the desired result. Thoughts? Thank you.

You can do this in PTGui by adjusting the centre point. Not sure about photoshop or other panorama specific software.

Chris

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

You can always shoot your panos manually (not using the DJI canned auto pano feature). This would take some learning curve and practice, but it's fairly basic: shoot a lot of manual exposure frames overlapping (both horizontally and vertically), then stitch in external software such as PTGui, Microsoft ICE (which is free), Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom. You can chose projections to control distortion, and you can crop the final result to your liking.

ICE is particularly easy to use if you shoot properly (you'll learn how to better over-lap exposures with experience). Once ICE gets them together in the right order and gives you a preview, you can drag the image around in a 3-D grid to decide on the final stitch. Though as you get good, you will find that PTGui gives you the most options.

Chris

 

[Robert Prior]

Easy enough to do if manually stitching. I use PTGUI because it's capable and I'm used to it. Affinity Photo also stitches panoramas and is a lot cheaper than Photoshop!

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I particularly like Affinity Photo for its ability to easily retouch spherical panoramas.

 

[EricJT]

You can always shoot your panos manually (not using the DJI canned auto pano feature). This would take some learning curve and practice, but it's fairly basic: shoot a lot of manual exposure frames overlapping (both horizontally and vertically), then stitch in external software such as PTGui, Microsoft ICE (which is free), Adobe Photoshop or Lightroom. You can chose projections to control distortion, and you can crop the final result to your liking.

ICE is particularly easy to use if you shoot properly (you'll learn how to better over-lap exposures with experience). Once ICE gets them together in the right order and gives you a preview, you can drag the image around in a 3-D grid to decide on the final stitch. Though as you get good, you will find that PTGui gives you the most options.

Chris

I have taken manual panos with my M2P (8x4) and then used PTGUI to stitch. The manual approach allows me to capture more below the horizon, but I must admit the DJI Go4 pano capture is fast and easy.

I have also found that after processing the RAW files into a complete pano, I use AI software to increase the resolution and size to allow cropping for the most optimal final picture.

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

I think I also remember being mentioned (and it may be a faulty memory because I don't think I've done this for myself), that one can take an auto 180 3x7 pano (rather than just the WIDE 3x3) and use whatever frames you want from that. So you could take 9 frames that the 180, but one row down from what the 9 frames that the WIDE pano would take, to get less sky and more foreground.

Then put those 9 frames together in post-processing using the regular cylindrical projection (rather than a 180 projection).

Has anyone tried that?

 

[Cymru]

The Pano SDK centres the horizon which is annoying.
One solution, although not ideal, is to use Litchi or 3rd party software that'll "manually" create a panorama based on your starting gimbal.