I really like the camera but the curved horizon and the gimbal never jibe.

[thegronz]

Thanks,

the grons.

 

[Meta4]

Every time I take a photo with the camera around 45 degrees or greater, I get the curved earth distortion, this is so annoying to have to fix this in post processing. I also have to adjust the gimbal every time I take off. I have adjusted it on the ground, but every time I have to re-adjust it. Strangely the horizon at a distance is often not inline with the home I am shooting which is at a much closer field of view.

Any fixed or adjustments you can share with me?

It's only there when shooting 10-bit video - DLOG.
Shoot 8-bit video and it's automatically corrected.
Or if you really want to shoot 10-bit video:
DJI Releases Presets to Correct Barrel Distortion on the Mavic 2 Pro

 

[parkgt]

It's only there when shooting 10-bit video - DLOG.
Shoot 8-bit video and it's automatically corrected.
Or if you really want to shoot 10-bit video:
DJI Releases Presets to Correct Barrel Distortion on the Mavic 2 Pro

He said when he takes a photo?

 

[dtp]

Does this effect happen on the your RAW (DNG) file and JPG too?

 

[Porky]

@thegronz

Have to had any joy with this? I’m seeing the same thing with Raw files.

 

[Meta4]

Have to had any joy with this? I’m seeing the same thing with Raw files.

That sounds like it might be due to the program you are using to deal with raw files.
If you are using Photoshop or Lightroom, the built-in distortion correction is applied.
What are you using?

 

[Brewbud]

Wow, which filters were you using?

 

[Porky]

I took the filter off and it works perfect, even in RAW. And the vignetting is gone in RAW too. The camera is good enough to use without a filter. I paid $90 for 3 filters, they must be junk. Also I shoot in aperture mode at about 7 - 8 to get the bluer skies.

Mmmmm.. I’m not using any filters only the standard cover.

That sounds like it might be due to the program you are using to deal with raw files.
If you are using Photoshop or Lightroom, the built-in distortion correction is applied.
What are you using?

Could be. I was using a program called Photomatix Pro 6 at the time. I’m now using Lightroom for the iPad.

I’ll see if I can replicate the curved horizon in PP6 then try Lightroom.

 

[Kilrah]

DNGs have a built-in lens correction profile, if you're seeing a curved horizon it's that the software you're using doesn't make use of it.

Filter causing distorsion is pretty much impossible. Vignetting yes but not distorsion.

 

[parkgt]

Polar Pro ND4 Even here in Arizona with all the sunlight I can get a nice blue sky without a filter. I think it is because the the large image sensor. I just step down the aperture or use the auto mode. If the auto mode opens the aperture to its widest setting, then go to the aperture mode and step it up to f8. Plus the narrow aperture will give you an infinite focal field and better color.

With this camera there is no reason to go to F8 were sharpness has already fallen way off. Better bet would be to increase shutter speed to cut light. Stay at or below f-5.6 if you care about a sharp image. The depth of field is plenty wide enough even at 2.8 unless you are taking shots of something at less than 20 feet.

There are plenty of great posts and Youtube videos that can help one understand this camera and lens.

 

[parkgt]

Polar Pro ND4 Even here in Arizona with all the sunlight I can get a nice blue sky without a filter. I think it is because the the large image sensor. I just step down the aperture or use the auto mode. If the auto mode opens the aperture to its widest setting, then go to the aperture mode and step it up to f8. Plus the narrow aperture will give you an infinite focal field and better color.

ND filters are not designed to change color of the sky.

 

[parkgt]

Yes it does to after I took the filter off it works perfect in RAW. Just have to step down the aperture to 8 and that will prevent the sky from getting blown out. You might have to step it down a bit more depending on the sun's position, though never max or min the aperture because you will always get distortion when it is all the way open or closed. This is the case with all cameras and lenses.

Why not shoot in manual and increase your shutter speed instead of stopping down past f5.6 where this lens is less sharp?

 

[parkgt]

I took the filter off and it works perfect, even in RAW. And the vignetting is gone in RAW too. The camera is good enough to use without a filter. I paid $90 for 3 filters, they must be junk. Also I shoot in aperture mode at about 7 - 8 to get the bluer skies.

Most consider the Polar Pro to be very nice filters. Almost no one buys that pack for photos but rather for video where shutter speed can't be changed very far without detrimental effects.

 

[thegronz]

With this camera there is no reason to go to F8 were sharpness has already fallen way off. Better bet would be to increase shutter speed to cut light. Stay at or below f-5.6 if you care about a sharp image. The depth of field is plenty wide enough even at 2.8 unless you are taking shots of something at less than 20 feet.

There are plenty of great posts and Youtube videos that can help one understand this camera and lens.

I would never open to F2.8 because i get distortion and too much light and the sweet spot is typically towards the middle. I have shot at 2.8 and the sky gets completely blowing out. F5.6 and up for me. Ansel Adams never shot below F14 for landscapes . To each is own.

 

[parkgt]

I would never open to F2.8 because i get distortion and too much light and the sweet spot is typically towards the middle. I have shot at 2.8 and the sky gets completely blowing out. F5.6 and up for me. Ansel Adams never shot below F14 for landscapes . To each is own.

Wow, Ansel Adams didn't have a drone with a 1" sensor and a small lens! If the sky is getting blown out at 2.8 your shutter speed is way too slow. He understood the Exposure Triangle and did marvelous work with the equipment available at the time, which probably didn't include a lens capable of 2.8.

He wanted depth of field for much of his work and used those apertures to achieve it. On this camera you don't need to go into the un-sharp zone to get it. Take some shots at 2.8 and see for yourself; any typical drone distance to infinity can be in focus as testing has shown.

 

[thegronz]

Wow, Ansel Adams didn't have a drone with a 1" sensor and a small lens! If the sky is getting blown out at 2.8 your shutter speed is way too slow. He understood the Exposure Triangle and did marvelous work with the equipment available at the time, which probably didn't include a lens capable of 2.8.

He wanted depth of field for much of his work and used those apertures to achieve it. On this camera you don't need to go into the un-sharp zone to get it. Take some shots at 2.8 and see for yourself; any typical drone distance to infinity can be in focus as testing has shown.

I'll give it a shot at 2.8... I just shot some photos today with Litche and the distortion was awful. I am going to stay with the DJI software. I had to correct each photo due to the "Pillow effect". I'm sure they will correct it because I have the Beta App...

 

[thegronz]

Wow, Ansel Adams didn't have a drone with a 1" sensor and a small lens! If the sky is getting blown out at 2.8 your shutter speed is way too slow. He understood the Exposure Triangle and did marvelous work with the equipment available at the time, which probably didn't include a lens capable of 2.8.

He wanted depth of field for much of his work and used those apertures to achieve it. On this camera you don't need to go into the un-sharp zone to get it. Take some shots at 2.8 and see for yourself; any typical drone distance to infinity can be in focus as testing has shown.

I hear what you are saying in that when the "Subject" is 80 feet from the camera the depth of field is going to be infinite; however I am after color and it seems that without a filter I would rather tweak the aperture. I suppose one could get the same results with a quicker shutter, I personally am used to tweaking the aperture, with my experience in HDR photography. I would use the f2.8 for cloudy days and twilight shooting due to the issues with a slow shutter.

Again to each his own, Tweaking the ISO, Aperture, or Shutter is up to that individual.

Peace,

 

[parkgt]

[QUOTE="thegronz, post: 590229, member: 72723" Tweaking the ISO, Aperture, or Shutter is up to that individual.

Peace,[/QUOTE]

Agreed, unfortunately this camera looses sharpness quickly and at f-8 it is pretty obvious compared to the same shot at f-4. Much of what we learned with film cameras and DSLRs doesn't work the same with these small lens and sensors.

Just hate to see people not get the most out their M2Ps. They are pretty amazing and their capabilities were unimaginable five years ago.

Happy flying.

 

[thegronz]

Thanks for the advice I’ll try using shutter mode or manual.

 

[kilomikebravo]

..I’ll try using shutter mode or manual.

Believe me, Gronz, you'll be glad you did. For most situations, manual mode is the only way to go.

KB