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Lulworth cove Dorset.

Thanks! I did take some videos but being relatively new to the drone world they didn’t turn out as I was expecting, it was more video footage of me getting used to the controls and handling of the bird.
 
Nice Pic.
 
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Yup. It's a beauty.
 
Thanks! I did take some videos but being relatively new to the drone world they didn’t turn out as I was expecting, it was more video footage of me getting used to the controls and handling of the bird.

I get that. Your pic is great. Nicely composed. A few tips on cinematic video... important to practice moves close to home so you're ready when you've traveled a distance to film a worthy subject.

Change the settings for drone and gimbal to soften the input controls and prevent some of the jerky movements. Your biggest enemy in attempting cinematic video clips is the yaw. Avoid using the left joystick to make course corrections while taking video. It's better to fly straight forward or straight back even if you're going off of your intended line. It always looks better than a course correction. Pilots will often attempt to fly along a line from a road or building and make corrections to stay on that line. Flying along a visual line doesn't often yield the best video clip. Flying over a straight section of road can look better crossing from an oblique angle. The important thing is DON'T rotate around the vertical axis while filming until you've had a lot of practice with slow sweeping moves while using both joysticks and the gimbal tilt simultaneously. Commit to your flight path and stick with it as long as you can. Or back up and start over. Even after adjusting settings, it requires a very light touch with your controls.

Changes in elevation and flight speed aren't that noticeable, but yaw results in radical movement along the horizon... jarring to the viewer.

You're gonna have to cut various clips together to make a finished video. The more time you're recording a clip along that path, the more you have to work with in post. Use multiple pieces of the same clips edited with others. In video editing, as a general rule you want a visual difference between cuts (as opposed to jump cuts), achieved through noticeable changes in composition and direction. High and low, left and right, forward and back, etc. Speed ramping long (straight) clips is a common way to cover distance quickly, but speeding up entire clips doesn't work, particularly with people, cars, water that look best at natural speed.

One move I practice is moving forward (right stick), up and sweep left/right (left stick to 11:00 or 1:00) and gimbal tilt down/up. What I'm trying to achieve with the gimbal tilt is to maintain the axis between the camera and the point of rotation, meaning keep the point where you began your tilt in the center of the screen. If you're flying a straight line towards/away from an object, create your drama by changing elevation and tilting gimbal to maintain axis (softly). You don't want your gimbal to be too responsive. My most common move is combining gimbal tilt with elevation change while traveling forward/backward. Ascend-gimbal tilt down (convex line). Descend-gimbal tilt up (concave line). These two simple moves always look good when done right.
 
I get that. Your pic is great. Nicely composed. A few tips on cinematic video... important to practice moves close to home so you're ready when you've traveled a distance to film a worthy subject.

Change the settings for drone and gimbal to soften the input controls and prevent some of the jerky movements. Your biggest enemy in attempting cinematic video clips is the yaw. Avoid using the left joystick to make course corrections while taking video. It's better to fly straight forward or straight back even if you're going off of your intended line. It always looks better than a course correction. Pilots will often attempt to fly along a line from a road or building and make corrections to stay on that line. Flying along a visual line doesn't often yield the best video clip. Flying over a straight section of road can look better crossing from an oblique angle. The important thing is DON'T rotate around the vertical axis while filming until you've had a lot of practice with slow sweeping moves while using both joysticks and the gimbal tilt simultaneously. Commit to your flight path and stick with it as long as you can. Or back up and start over. Even after adjusting settings, it requires a very light touch with your controls.

Changes in elevation and flight speed aren't that noticeable, but yaw results in radical movement along the horizon... jarring to the viewer.

You're gonna have to cut various clips together to make a finished video. The more time you're recording a clip along that path, the more you have to work with in post. Use multiple pieces of the same clips edited with others. In video editing, as a general rule you want a visual difference between cuts (as opposed to jump cuts), achieved through noticeable changes in composition and direction. High and low, left and right, forward and back, etc. Speed ramping long (straight) clips is a common way to cover distance quickly, but speeding up entire clips doesn't work, particularly with people, cars, water that look best at natural speed.

One move I practice is moving forward (right stick), up and sweep left/right (left stick to 11:00 or 1:00) and gimbal tilt down/up. What I'm trying to achieve with the gimbal tilt is to maintain the axis between the camera and the point of rotation, meaning keep the point where you began your tilt in the center of the screen. If you're flying a straight line towards/away from an object, create your drama by changing elevation and tilting gimbal to maintain axis (softly). You don't want your gimbal to be too responsive. My most common move is combining gimbal tilt with elevation change while traveling forward/backward. Ascend-gimbal tilt down (convex line). Descend-gimbal tilt up (concave line). These two simple moves always look good when done right.

Thanks for the great advice! I’ll definitely practice some of the moves you suggested, I’m getting a little bit more confident with the controls I’ve also had a play with the gimbal controls to soften the movements. A lot of my flights are over water so I’m trying to practice a lot before making big commitments for the right shot. But I will definitely practice your advice :)Thumbswayup
Any advice is always much appreciated!
 
I could fly that cliff line for years and still discover different ways to capture it. I must go there some day. A lot of my flying is over water as well.

A lot of my earliest flights were high. Don't be afraid to fly lower altitudes. Get some foreground elements in the video clip for a nice parallax effect. It's magic. Over time, the moves become intuitive. When I look at my clips later, I anticipate the right drone/gimbal moves and see if I followed what I see. The gimbal tilt with elevation change is the most important thing to master.

You can see the gentle curve of the coastline to the left of frame. Practice flying a gentle curve along that coastline, maybe 30-50' above the top edge, ever so slightly in, then out (orange line). It's only the lightest touch on the left stick. It should be a consistent light touch, barely noticeable. Once you commit to the turn, stay with it even if it's a bit too much. Get as long a clip out of it as possible. Stop the move before you crash into the cliff face of course, but stay with the turn and don't try to correct. When you stop short of the cliff, just reorient and try the same thing. You'll cut out the corrections in post. Try the same cliff route at different elevations below the cliff edge and close to the water's edge (which may yield the most dramatic clips). When you have a sharp point (far left of frame at end of orange line), increase elevation as you approach and gimbal down simultaneously. The higher elevation makes for a better looking turn. Gradually descend and gimbal up after the turn. Ascending elevation should always accompany gimbal down and vice versa. It takes some coordination to get it just right.

The high point of the peninsula (red circle) would be great for a backwards flight. Just remember to gimbal down to keep the elevation point in the center of frame. If you can hike out there, just use the dronie flight mode to accomplish the same. A POI mode would also be stunning.

The ND filters are primarily for reducing the light to the sensor so you can shoot video at 1/50 or 1/60 shutter speed (24p or 30p), otherwise you get a stuttery look to your video clips, especially noticeable when passing foreground objects. I always keep my ISO at 100 until I run out of light with no filter. Often times ISO/exposure adjustments need to be made in-flight when you change directions to the shadow side of your subject. It's always better when your subject is getting full sun exposure, so time your flying to capture the best light.

Dorset-2.jpg
 
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Amazing!
 
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I could fly that cliff line for years and still discover different ways to capture it. I must go there some day. A lot of my flying is over water as well.

A lot of my earliest flights were high. Don't be afraid to fly lower altitudes. Get some foreground elements in the video clip for a nice parallax effect. It's magic. Over time, the moves become intuitive. When I look at my clips later, I anticipate the right drone/gimbal moves and see if I followed what I see. The gimbal tilt with elevation change is the most important thing to master.

You can see the gentle curve of the coastline to the left of frame. Practice flying a gentle curve along that coastline, maybe 30-50' above the top edge, ever so slightly in, then out (orange line). It's only the lightest touch on the left stick. It should be a consistent light touch, barely noticeable. Once you commit to the turn, stay with it even if it's a bit too much. Get as long a clip out of it as possible. Stop the move before you crash into the cliff face of course, but stay with the turn and don't try to correct. When you stop short of the cliff, just reorient and try the same thing. You'll cut out the corrections in post. Try the same cliff route at different elevations below the cliff edge and close to the water's edge (which may yield the most dramatic clips). When you have a sharp point (far left of frame at end of orange line), increase elevation as you approach and gimbal down simultaneously. The higher elevation makes for a better looking turn. Gradually descend and gimbal up after the turn. Ascending elevation should always accompany gimbal down and vice versa. It takes some coordination to get it just right.

The high point of the peninsula (red circle) would be great for a backwards flight. Just remember to gimbal down to keep the elevation point in the center of frame. If you can hike out there, just use the dronie flight mode to accomplish the same. A POI mode would also be stunning.

The ND filters are primarily for reducing the light to the sensor so you can shoot video at 1/50 or 1/60 shutter speed (24p or 30p), otherwise you get a stuttery look to your video clips, especially noticeable when passing foreground objects. I always keep my ISO at 100 until I run out of light with no filter. Often times ISO/exposure adjustments need to be made in-flight when you change directions to the shadow side of your subject. It's always better when your subject is getting full sun exposure, so time your flying to capture the best light.

View attachment 81424

Lovely guide there, you really know what you’re talking about and seem very experienced I’m still trying to get my head around ISO, shutter speed and and all the settings, I have the polarpro cinema series Nd filters so I’m learning when I should use certain filters for the amount of light and weather conditions, next time I’m down there I will try and do some of the flights you’ve described, as I’m getting more and more confident with each flight, thanks for you help and guides I really appreciate it :)
 
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