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M2P to M2Z gimbal swap

tleedom

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When you swap the M2P gimbal to a Zoom gimbal, does the Go4 app recognize the new camera system?
 
Thank you, I hoped you would see this post and chime in.
 
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How difficult is it to swap the camera's?


Has anyone done a video on swapping the cameras? I would say I have moderate skill level, AS LONG AS I KNOW WHAT TO DO....

Links to gimble swap:
change mavic 2 pro gimble to zoom - Bing video

mavic 2 pro to zoom gimble swap - Bing video

mavic 2 pro to zoom gimble swap - Bing video

With the correct tools. time and attention this is doable. But as a retired Army RW test pilot my concern would be reducing the wear and tear on multiple changes. In my past life I could see and experience first hand the effects of repetitive component replacements on systems (especially electrical and avionics). I haven't done one yet, but I am leaning to a M2P drone and M2Z gimble option.
 
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I got my Zoom gimble here:

Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com


The price has gone up some, I paid $256 shipped for mine. I couldn't see paying $400 for one just because it was already here in the US.

It took two weeks to receive and came with a gimble cover. Brand new and packaged very well. The gimble was wrapped in anti static bubble wrap placed inside of a anti static foam block. I haven't swapped it out with the pro gimble yet, but given the condition it arrived in I don't expect any problems.

I confirmed with the seller before purchasing that this was not a refurbished part and it was a new DJI OEM replacement part.
 
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Looks like those guys are catching up - i see now min price got to $284. Glad i got mine for $252. Swap procedure is on youtube, only tricky part is to slide forward cover part and carefully lift one corner of it so you would not damage plastic pin there. Also i do not think the connector they used will like too many disconnects, so, it is not designed for often swaps
 
Short version, dont swap gimbals unless you are fully aware of the consequences.

Swapping the gimbal might seem like an easy thing to do, but anyone who tries this needs to be very careful. It's not like swapping the lens out of an Inspire or an SLR. Those have mounts that are meant to be connected and disconnected frequently. The Mavics lens doesnt just turn and click and the connector is very fragile. Trust me on that one.

Yes, anyone who has electronics repair experience can do it, but bear in mind that the female end of the connector goes in to the core board. If you rush it, and break the female end of the connector, you are looking at a new core board because it wont be repairable. New core board = $350+

One last fact fun fact. If you are willing to try this, you need to use the correct screw driver to get the screws out. They strip very easily. If you do strip any of the screws that hold the gimbal to the frame, you will never be able to swap the gimbal again. Yes, you might be able to auger or dremel it out, but who wants to do that?

Rob
Thunderdrones
We always keep your best interests at heart.

M2 Gimbal bay.jpg
 
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I got my Zoom gimble here:

Buy Products Online from China Wholesalers at Aliexpress.com


The price has gone up some, I paid $256 shipped for mine. I couldn't see paying $400 for one just because it was already here in the US.

It took two weeks to receive and came with a gimble cover. Brand new and packaged very well. The gimble was wrapped in anti static bubble wrap placed inside of a anti static foam block. I haven't swapped it out with the pro gimble yet, but given the condition it arrived in I don't expect any problems.

I confirmed with the seller before purchasing that this was not a refurbished part and it was a new DJI OEM replacement part.
Wish I'd have known that earlier. Just paid £352 from eBay as it's all I could find. Admittedly I didn't search for long.
 
what Thunderdrones said, also - do NOT overtighten those bolts, i can tell by the feel those nut inserts in the drone`s body may be brass and if you strip them - as bolts are made from steel - you are done. use 2 fingers to tighten all bolts and be very careful.

i used to deal with the connector type used for the cable there - it will do may be 3-4 dozens reconnects and then it gets loose. when it gets loose it no longer presses male insert in properly, and, well, like Thunderdrones said - it is a new board as to re-solder that connector at home is not really doable. it is truly a pity they did not use a usual lever type of the connector that receives a cable strip end in - that would be immortal. but, it is what it is.
 
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what Thunderdrones said, also - do NOT overtighten those bolts, i can tell by the feel those nut inserts in the drone`s body may be brass and if you strip them - as bolts are made from steel - you are done. use 2 fingers to tighten all bolts and be very careful.

i used to deal with the connector type used for the cable there - it will do may be 3-4 dozens reconnects and then it gets loose. when it gets loose it no longer presses male insert in properly, and, well, like Thunderdrones said - it is a new board as to re-solder that connector at home is not really doable. it is truly a pity they did not use a usual lever type of the connector that receives a cable strip end in - that would be immortal. but, it is what it is.
Did you do the swap yet? I have a zoom and will be swapping to the pro in the next few days, would love any advice and or input.
 
Did you do the swap yet? I have a zoom and will be swapping to the pro in the next few days, would love any advice and or input.
I wrote about it long ago. Yes, did a swap same day gimball arrived, tested it, then took zoom one off and hasselblad back. All worked fine, also it wanted a firmware update for gimbal after swap. Procedure is simple, just do not overtight those bolts. When you decide which one to mount permanently, use some locktite, may be. I did not do it and now feel a bit uneasy, may be will take it apart again later to do that. Will see.
 
If an owner has not had any electronics experience and wants to try this, be very careful. If you crush a connector, strip a screw, or forget to tighten a screw, it could cause you more trouble than if you left it to a pro.
Yep, whole assembly is incredibly flimsy, i was quite surprised, not is a good way. For the price they charged for it they could have used titanium plates there instead of plastic. But, whatever works...
 
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If an owner has not had any electronics experience and wants to try this, be very careful. If you crush a connector, strip a screw, or forget to tighten a screw, it could cause you more trouble than if you left it to a pro.

Then you end up sending Rob one of those repair request forms.
 
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