mavic 3 pro still image quality?

[owenpga]

i'm considering purchasing the 3 pro for still image photography including printing images.
i'm coming from a d850 and most previous models. I sell my prints and generally 24x36 is the max, but have printed many in the 60" range with great results.
i know based on the size of the sensor that these drones won't be as good in the quality department so my question would be, how good is good? does anyone in this forum actually sell there drone images? and if so what size are you maxing out on? thanks for any thoughts.

 

[landscapetog]

I have used the A7R (which has the same sensor as your D850) and many other more recent full frame Sony cameras.

The Mavic 3 / 3 Pro 12mm camera (24mm equivalent) is not as good as your D850 in single shot mode. However in bracketing mode, merging in HDR, the image quality does rival a full frame sensor.

I now always shoot RAW images in bracket mode and almost always merge to HDR. Because the gimbal system is so stable and the camera is almost tripod-like, it is exceedingly easy to bracket almost every image in 5 shot mode and you get very very high quality results that are close to the image quality landscape images from a single shot full frame dSLR or mirrorless camera with a good lens. Note that there is a bit of uncorrected barrel distortion with the 12mm lens, for non-pano images I use a distortion correction of 11 or so which cleans that right up.

It's also very easy to merge multiple bracketed panoramic images. I use Photoshop / ACR / Bridge (lightroom is basically the same) but most any modern image processing workflow will give similar results.

The 3x lens / sensor combo is not as good, but still capable of professional quality results when bracket / HDR merged. The 7x less so, but can still produce very nice results when used in bracket / HDR mode. This is the camera module that needs significant improvement in the M4.

I find the Mavic 3 / 3 Pro an indispensable landscape photography tool because it allows you to always get exactly the angle you want, which is very often impossible from the ground, and because you can always get clear vantage points without hiking many minutes or even hours in the dark.

 

[Filmarik]

I have used the A7R (which has the same sensor as your D850) and many other more recent full frame Sony cameras.

The Mavic 3 / 3 Pro 12mm camera (24mm equivalent) is not as good as your D850 in single shot mode. However in bracketing mode, merging in HDR, the image quality does rival a full frame sensor.

I now always shoot RAW images in bracket mode and almost always merge to HDR. Because the gimbal system is so stable and the camera is almost tripod-like, it is exceedingly easy to bracket almost every image in 5 shot mode and you get very very high quality results that are close to the image quality landscape images from a single shot full frame dSLR or mirrorless camera with a good lens. Note that there is a bit of uncorrected barrel distortion with the 12mm lens, for non-pano images I use a distortion correction of 11 or so which cleans that right up.

It's also very easy to merge multiple bracketed panoramic images. I use Photoshop / ACR / Bridge (lightroom is basically the same) but most

The 3x lens / sensor combo is not as good, but still capable of professional quality results when merged. The 7x less so, but can still produce very nice results when used in bracket / HDR mode.

I find the Mavic 3 / 3 Pro an indispensable landscape photography tool because it allows you to always get exactly the angle you want, which is very often impossible from the ground, and because you can always get clear vantage points without hiking many minutes or even hours in the dark.

I would also recommend to look at DxO PureRAW for processing the DNG files from the Mavic 3 Pro drone. Personally I have been VERY impressed with this software and with how well it cleans the noise and improves details, even at higher ISO. For me the 3x and 7x cameras are now usable in wider variety of lighting conditions. Quite amazing what this software can do, actually!
Though the results might not be as good as from FF with a good lens I am convinced that the prints of that size can have sufficient IQ to be offered for sale. Some of my drone shot adore walls of architect's offices printed to 40" and they look great next to photos taken with my FF camera. Processing is the king

 

[owenpga]

I have used the A7R (which has the same sensor as your D850) and many other more recent full frame Sony cameras.

The Mavic 3 / 3 Pro 12mm camera (24mm equivalent) is not as good as your D850 in single shot mode. However in bracketing mode, merging in HDR, the image quality does rival a full frame sensor.

I now always shoot RAW images in bracket mode and almost always merge to HDR. Because the gimbal system is so stable and the camera is almost tripod-like, it is exceedingly easy to bracket almost every image in 5 shot mode and you get very very high quality results that are close to the image quality landscape images from a single shot full frame dSLR or mirrorless camera with a good lens. Note that there is a bit of uncorrected barrel distortion with the 12mm lens, for non-pano images I use a distortion correction of 11 or so which cleans that right up.

It's also very easy to merge multiple bracketed panoramic images. I use Photoshop / ACR / Bridge (lightroom is basically the same) but most

The 3x lens / sensor combo is not as good, but still capable of professional quality results when merged. The 7x less so, but can still produce very nice results when used in bracket / HDR mode.

I find the Mavic 3 / 3 Pro an indispensable landscape photography tool because it allows you to always get exactly the angle you want, which is very often impossible from the ground, and because you can always get clear vantage points without hiking many minutes or even hours in the dark.

this is great. thanks for the feedback. i actually downloaded a few images for the dji site and they look pretty good.

 

[owenpga]

I would also recommend to look at DxO PureRAW for processing the DNG files from the Mavic 3 Pro drone. Personally I have been VERY impressed with this software and with how well it cleans the noise and improves details, even at higher ISO. For me the 3x and 7x cameras are now usable in wider variety of lighting conditions. Quite amazing what this software can do, actually!
Though the results might not be as good as from FF with a good lens I am convinced that the prints of that size can have sufficient IQ to be offered for sale. Some of my drone shot adore walls of architect's offices printed to 40" and they look great next to photos taken with my FF camera. Processing is the king

thanks for response. i tried the trial version on the Dxo a few months ago to see how the noise plugin worked. i've been using the topaz for years and i didn't see any improvement in the Dxo. Just my opinion. they are both good products. i agree 1000% on the PP. thank you

 

[Filmarik]

thanks for response. i tried the trial version on the Dxo a few months ago to see how the noise plugin worked. i've been using the topaz for years and i didn't see any improvement in the Dxo. Just my opinion. they are both good products. i agree 1000% on the PP. thank you

I do not have experience with Topaz but one of the greatest benefit of DxO PureRAW is that it has very good lens correction profiles for all 3 of M3P cameras. It is able to bring out details I could not even see before in LR! The only thing I do not use is its sharpening (Lens Softness OFF in my case). I do my own sharpening with different values for each camera in LR and then final "camera specific sharpening" in PS just before printing.
I am very happy with my current workflow. It feels like the drone has a much better lenses on all 3 cameras when I run the files through the PureRaw first. But that just my 2 cent worth.
In any case I think that you should be able to achieve your goal with M3P.

 

[owenpga]

I do not have experience with Topaz but one of the greatest benefit of DxO PureRAW is that it has very good lens correction profiles for all 3 of M3P cameras. It is able to bring out details I could not even see before in LR! The only thing I do not use is its sharpening (Lens Softness OFF in my case). I do my own sharpening with different values for each camera in LR and then final "camera specific sharpening" in PS just before printing.
I am very happy with my current workflow. It feels like the drone has a much better lenses on all 3 cameras when I run the files through the PureRaw first. But that just my 2 cent worth.

You make a good point on the profiles. I didn’t see the dji profiles in my LR. I’m now pretty convinced I won’t be disappointed in the image quality. Now debating whether to get a refurbished with the extra batteries and upgraded controller. About $800 cheaper and still has full warranty. Thanks for the help.

 

[Filmarik]

I do not have experience with Topaz but one of the greatest benefit of DxO PureRAW is that it has very good lens correction profiles for all 3 of M3P cameras. It is able to bring out details I could not even see before in LR! The only thing I do not use is its sharpening (Lens Softness OFF in my case). I do my own sharpening with different values for each camera in LR and then final "camera specific sharpening" in PS just before printing.
I am very happy with my current workflow. It feels like the drone has a much better lenses on all 3 cameras when I run the files through the PureRaw first. But that just my 2 cent worth.
In any case I think that you should be able to achieve your goal with M3P.

One more note. If you decide to buy Mavic 3 Pro and find the images to be not sharp across the frame or have same other obvious flaws, do not hesitate to return it and request a replacement. It has been broadly documented that there are Mavic 3 and Mavic 3 Pro drones out there with IQ issues, mostly with the main 24mm Hassy camera.
Good luck!

 

[Vic Moss]

I process all of my Mavic 3 Pro DNG files to match the size of the images coming out of my D810 (now Z7ii). I use CaptureOne Pro and have a custom recipe to match the sizes.

When I pixel peep my final images, I can't tell the difference. And I've been a commercial photographer for over 35 years. If I can't tell the difference, my clients can't either.

 

[Filmarik]

I process all of my Mavic 3 Pro DNG files to match the size of the images coming out of my D810 (now Z7ii). I use CaptureOne Pro and have a custom recipe to match the sizes.

When I pixel peep my final images, I can't tell the difference. And I've been a commercial photographer for over 35 years. If I can't tell the difference, my clients can't either.

That is interesting. As a long time C1 user myself (18+ years) using it exclusively for processing files from my FF DSLR cameras I was disappointed with how it handled DNG files from my Mavic 3. When pixel peeping at 100% or 200% I saw blotchiness in the finest details like grass, foliage and other organic textures. No matter how I tweaked the sharpening parameters the finest details were blotchy and unnaturally looking, almost like a watercolor painting. Then I tried LR for the DNG files, and quite frankly I never looked back. These days I process my Mavic 3 Pro DNG files using first DxO Pure Raw with Softness switch OFF as I do not like their sharpening either and then I use LR where I apply my own dedicated sharpening presets for each camera. For the main Hassy 24mm camera it is A 80 R 06 D 40. Then after I complete my editing in PS I apply minor secondary sharpening just before printing or final saving. The fine detail I can now see in the Mavic 3 photos is quite amazing and yet very naturally looking.
BTW, I still use C1 for processing raw files from my current Canon 5D4 and love the IQ it produces from raw files of this camera.

 

[Vic Moss]

That is interesting. As a long time C1 user myself (18+ years) using it exclusively for processing files from my FF DSLR cameras I was disappointed with how it handled DNG files from my Mavic 3. When pixel peeping at 100% or 200% I saw blotchiness in the finest details like grass, foliage and other organic textures. No matter how I tweaked the sharpening parameters the finest details were blotchy and unnaturally looking, almost like a watercolor painting. Then I tried LR for the DNG files, and quite frankly I never looked back. These days I process my Mavic 3 Pro DNG files using first DxO Pure Raw with Softness switch OFF as I do not like their sharpening either and then I use LR where I apply my own dedicated sharpening presets for each camera. For the main Hassy 24mm camera it is A 80 R 06 D 40. Then after I complete my editing in PS I apply minor secondary sharpening just before printing or final saving. The fine detail I can now see in the Mavic 3 photos is quite amazing and yet very naturally looking.
BTW, I still use C1 for processing raw files from my current Canon 5D4 and love the IQ it produces from raw files of this camera.

Interesting, I've never seen those issues. And I'm a pixel peeper. I'll have to look into using LR and compare.

 

[Filmarik]

Interesting, I've never seen those issues. And I'm a pixel peeper. I'll have to look into using LR and compare.

I'll be curious to hear from you after you do. You'll need to look very closely at some natural organic textures to see the difference. Just remember to keep the Radius to 0.5 - 0.6 in LR when applying sharpening to bring out the fine detail.

 

[Vic Moss]

I'll be curious to hear from you after you do. You'll need to look very closely at some natural organic textures to see the difference. Just remember to keep the Radius to 0.5 - 0.6 in LR when applying sharpening to bring out the fine detail.

I actually turn all sharpening off when I process DNGs. Maybe that's the difference. The last thing I do is sharpen my tiffs when I convert them to jgps.

I wonder if that's the difference?

 

[Filmarik]

I actually turn all sharpening off when I process DNGs. Maybe that's the difference. The last thing I do is sharpen my tiffs when I convert them to jgps.

I wonder if that's the difference?

That could be it. I use different workflow and sharpen first in RAW converter before exporting and then again in PS before saving TIFF as my final finished product. But if I am unable to see the finest detail in C1 after applying sharpening there I doubt the detail would somewhow appear in PS. Anyway, let us know your findings