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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

That sucks cause with my wind surfers I can get 30000'. Here in the city I can get 30000' imagine what I could get in the country
8 out of 10 the mavic and winsurfers is fail. In some cases even worse. I hated them and archived em in the trash.
Some people i have contact with thought that their signal was bad, tried windsurfers AND at the same time different location (range indeed got better) to realize that at the old location was the reason ( 20m object at 500m distance means you need 120m altitude at 3 km)
Winsurfers off...no diffrence. These people flown p3 and windsurfers did make a huge difference for real.
Those 4w boosters you use do not output 4w either. Even possibly less output than the 3w sunhans.
Comparison: 4w sunhans outputs 21.5dBm
3w sunhans outputs 22.3dBm
1w dual sunhans outputs 30dBm (too heavy for me so i archived it).
Beaming thru objects will always kill signal, no matter what you boost with and "city area" means nothing really. I ve flown over congested ares in the past and got same signal as over farmlands. In the latter case even had less signal sometimes because of specific areas (source i could not find) made my signal nosedive to almost zero. Always at the same location.
Location and LoS...first one you need luck, second one use eyes.
 
8 out of 10 the mavic and winsurfers is fail. In some cases even worse. I hated them and archived em in the trash.
Some people i have contact with thought that their signal was bad, tried windsurfers AND at the same time different location (range indeed got better) to realize that at the old location was the reason ( 20m object at 500m distance means you need 120m altitude at 3 km)
Winsurfers off...no diffrence. These people flown p3 and windsurfers did make a huge difference for real.
Those 4w boosters you use do not output 4w either. Even possibly less output than the 3w sunhans.
Comparison: 4w sunhans outputs 21.5dBm
3w sunhans outputs 22.3dBm
1w dual sunhans outputs 30dBm (too heavy for me so i archived it).
Beaming thru objects will always kill signal, no matter what you boost with and "city area" means nothing really. I ve flown over congested ares in the past and got same signal as over farmlands. In the latter case even had less signal sometimes because of specific areas (source i could not find) made my signal nosedive to almost zero. Always at the same location.
Location and LoS...first one you need luck, second one use eyes.
I beg to differ the wind surfers I have work very well-the difference between mine and the other ones you probly use this one is 3" long I put 2 coatings of aluminum and then 1 coating of copper. Other surfers I've seen are not as tall as the ones I have
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Found a charger yet?

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This is the best charger I found in the store where I buy equipment. It should charge most batteries and can be used in the car with 12volt. It also has bluetooth connection so it´s possible to adjust and monitor the charging on a smartphone.
What do you think of this charger?
Is it possible charge TITAN batteries with this?
 
Maybe i will try this..
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Does not seem too hard. There must be folks really good at this!
Yes, great Scott. But he does warn against soldering these cells and will also. But the cheap electric spot welders also seem to have problems. I'm having to fix mine again after a catastrophic failure. Looks like in the end not permanent damage but the triac blew out , common issue with these using running in 110V. And I even gave it extra power of a single pole 30A breaker, 10-2 wire to the breaker, NEMA6 outlet and NEMA6 extention cord with 12 awg wire all able to carry 5,000 watts safely. And they will still pop a main breaker at 70% power and cause the triac to fail.
This time for the repair , 40A breaker and hopefully I can find a triac that can do 60A to cover the inrush current to the transformer, some active cooling on the triac heat sink.
These are really cheap and bad designed welders for 18650 cells.

So at this time I can not remcomed a safe way to make packs at home yourself. Wait for Tritan to get stock back up, or find another manufactures making them maybe.
Soldering them is bad, will weaken the vent seal and cause internal break down in the cell the the soldering iron heat. I'm working on a good mod for these welders that will be stable and work on 110V. If you buy one just get the 220V versions.
When the triac goes it kicks a lot of power back, the fuses are not designed for this power and blow apart, I've seen the whole fuse case and fuse blow off. If the fuse just blows then you have glass to clean out but if you try it again I've seen the switch arc since the switch isn't properly rated. In fact none of the wiring in them are properly rated.
I wasn't to go show this video until I was done my repairs and mods to the unit, but concidering I know this group won't wait and these things are dangerous I figured I will share.
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This is the best charger I found in the store where I buy equipment. It should charge most batteries and can be used in the car with 12volt. It also has bluetooth connection so it´s possible to adjust and monitor the charging on a smartphone.
What do you think of this charger?
Is it possible charge TITAN batteries with this?
Yes, that will work great.
 
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Got my charger today and I call my drone skynet
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Whay hologram, the little circle, or the circle and the square. Your looking for both, circle and square.
The real units have "SkyRC" to the right if the start button, not "CE FCC".
Unfortunately even holograms can be faked these days, but the square has a number on it that you can go to SkyRC web site and enter this number to see if it real.
Their can be several makers of a fake, this is just one comparison. It does show what one is real and fake but it's YouTube overlay so you will only see this if you play the video on a computers, not mobile devices. But again the one with the name SkyRC to the right of the start button is the real one in this video.

I also recommend the temp monitor and read the manual, set it up properly and set the high temp cutoff. By default I think it's on already, but may be set to high for my preference. I think it's set for over 200C, at that point its to late and the battery is in thermal runaway. Set the temp more like 65C max. If a battery pack gets this hot charging then you charging above the C rate or something wrong like a short, or high internal resistance on one of the cells failing. The point is to catch it before it's to late my monitoring the temp when charging.

Also note, he mentions he bought his fake one from hobby king, so the king is not always the king.
I just mention this stuff so people can be safer doing this stuff.
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Off topicc, anyone know who the heck makes HTC li-ion cell batteries?
Specifically model BTR6400B, part # 35H00142-09M listed for phone ADR6400L.
My neighbors car broke down last winter, been siting outside, black car, windows up, hot summer, maybe 110F to 120F inside this car on may given day in the last month.
For 4+ months this battery was in the car, he yells over "You want a battery?" beciase he knows me.
To my surprise it's not swollen. 1400mAh single cell phone battery, nice.
Then I check the voltage and it's at a near perfect storage voltage of 3.6846V
I need to do some controlled discharges and charging on this thing to see if any damage was done at all. I've seen batteries well from one or two hot days being left in a car, impressive so far.
 
And I'm finally fought up on this thread.
Two of you go back and forth like a married couple filling the thread up, lol.
You know who you are :-)
JK
 
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