Cant a regular joe like me just buy ONE filter to try out and maybe keep?
they are so expensive!! or do I really need one?
they are so expensive!! or do I really need one?
Cant a regular joe like me just buy ONE filter to try out and maybe keep?
they are so expensive!! or do I really need one?
Photos really don’t have anything to do with ND filters, unless you’re into long exposure photography (in which case you’re probably aiming higher than 16)I'm just not concerned about getting the utmost out of my photos. If I do want to tweak a photo I'll probably just drop into Photoshop.
My limited experiencePolar sells singles and Freewell also.
Probably notdo I really need one?
But unless you have motion close to your lens, it really makes no difference.
While i agree that there are a lot os scenarios where you want to slow the shutter down to get motion blur, I think people get too hung up on the 180° rule. That rule is largely an artifact of how mechanical shutters used to operate. The point is to get motion blur that looks natural to your eye. Ive done tests looking down at my waving hand at waist level with a gopro, so i could easily compare the video with how the motion blur looked to my eye, and at around a 60th of a second was the closest match, regardless of frames per second. In other words, no need to shoot at 1/120th if you are shooting at 60fps. And also, with any shutter speed from about 1/24th to around 1/200th the blur still looks pretty natural. So, to get natural blur you mostly just need to avoid the really high shutter speeds of 1/250th or above, where you do start to get a strobing effect. So your nd16 should be fine for all but the very brightest scenes. And for the most natural blur possible, forget the 180° rule, just shoot at a 60th. (Unless you are shooting at 120 or 240 fps of course.)This is the classic case where ND filters help to achieve motion blur to remove strobing from near objects moving very fast. The guideline is a shutter speed of 2x the frame rate - at 30 FPS use a shutter of 1/60. Pick the ND value to avoid needing to raise the ISO of the camera. The DJI sensors are very bad at higher ISOs.
I am curious about your comment, "This is the classic case where ND filters help to achieve motion blur to remove strobing from near objects moving very fast. The guideline is a shutter speed of 2x the frame rate - at 30 FPS use a shutter of 1/60. Pick the ND value to avoid needing to raise the ISO of the camera. The DJI sensors are very bad at higher ISOs.
I am confused. Based on my experience as a semi-professional photographer and flying my Mavic air, it would seem to me that raisining ISO will make the sensor more sensitive and, therefore, require a higher shutter speed. The use of ND filters will permit lower shutter speeds at the same ISO. On the other hand, a dark ND filter will permit very long shutter speeds and get the movement of clouds. I know this works in single images and, I suppose, in video as well. I shall try it and let you know.This is the classic case where ND filters help to achieve motion blur to remove strobing from near objects moving very fast. The guideline is a shutter speed of 2x the frame rate - at 30 FPS use a shutter of 1/60. Pick the ND value to avoid needing to raise the ISO of the camera. The DJI sensors are very bad at higher ISOs.
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