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Need help and advise - Grainy and noisy video

djr

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Hi..need some advise guys..

been flying around.. Flying still manageable...

The part where it come to setting video, video editing and etc, im still kind of newbie.

DJI Mavic Air. Video Capture in 4K, 30 Fps, manual setting, ISO 100, Shutter speed 1/60, ND Fliter 32, D- Cinelike, Cloudy, 0-0-0.

Using Adobe premiere pro, Set 24fps, color grading set as auto and export H.264 Youtube 4k.


Upload 4k video but it show as 1080p.

Any advise on how to reduce video grainy and noise.

Tks
 
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Hello there !

Could it be Premiere export parameters ? Take a look HERE maybe to find params that suits you and Youtube. It happens to me aswell with my first try with DaVinci Resolve : the Youtube preset rendered an horrible result. Going with my own preset and tweaking an higher bitrate solved that problem.
Hope it helps !
Pascal
 
Hello there !

Could it be Premiere export parameters ? Take a look HERE maybe to find params that suits you and Youtube. It happens to me aswell with my first try with DaVinci Resolve : the Youtube preset rendered an horrible result. Going with my own preset and tweaking an higher bitrate solved that problem.
Hope it helps !
Pascal

Tks will have alook..

I think my original already have alot noise.. nt to sure...

[emoji848]
 
It was uploaded at 2160, not the highest resolution that any Mavic can take. If you only say 1080 at the time you viewed it, you had not allowed YT enough time to process the higher resolution. I did not see any real issue with a grainy video or noise.
 
It was uploaded at 2160, not the highest resolution that any Mavic can take. If you only say 1080 at the time you viewed it, you had not allowed YT enough time to process the higher resolution. I did not see any real issue with a grainy video or noise.

So u saying that my video look normal? [emoji848]

Will go fly again on wed probably afternoon to give a try again...

[emoji51]
 
I am not really seeing any noise in that footage. The darker areas will always be a little grainier than the lighter areas just because your sensor can only expose for one thing at a time. Looks fine to me, and just like my MA.

Also keep in mind these tiny 1/2.3" sensors do have a tiny bit of visible noise even at ISO 100, especially if you underexpose at all. If you're at ISO 100 and have a proper exposure, there is nothing more you can do for native noise control.
 
I am not really seeing any noise in that footage. The darker areas will always be a little grainier than the lighter areas just because your sensor can only expose for one thing at a time. Looks fine to me, and just like my MA.

Also keep in mind these tiny 1/2.3" sensors do have a tiny bit of visible noise even at ISO 100, especially if you underexpose at all. If you're at ISO 100 and have a proper exposure, there is nothing more you can do for native noise control.

Ok... if that is the case i have to shoot in brighter day.. that day was cloudy and polarpro apps say use nd32 but i didnt check while changing the 2nd battery if not wrong it should be nd16.

Anyway the video playback still look not so bad on computer monitor but once i playback in the 4k samsung tv the video look kind of ****..

Will try again this wednesday.

Tks
 
Ok... if that is the case i have to shoot in brighter day.. that day was cloudy and polarpro apps say use nd32 but i didnt check while changing the 2nd battery if not wrong it should be nd16.

But anyway will try again..

Tks

The only time I have ever used a ND32 was in extremely bright noon-sun in Hawaii - I highly doubt that cloudy day needed a ND32, and it looks underexposed by at least 0.7EV which would contribute to visible noise. Try again with ND16 and go down to the ND8 if you need to - the more light you can get to the sensor (without overexposing) the better everything will look. Cloudy/Overcast I am almost always shooting with the ND8 unless the terrain is very bright/reflective.

If you just point your drone at something to get a no-filter shutter speed before entering it in the Polar Pro calculator, make sure you don't just point it at the bright sky or it will tell you that you need a way stronger filter than necessary - try to get the most accurate representation of the scene in the "test" scene as possible. It's definitely a bit of a balancing act.
 
The only time I have ever used a ND32 was in extremely bright noon-sun in Hawaii - I highly doubt that cloudy day needed a ND32, and it looks underexposed by at least 0.7EV which would contribute to visible noise. Try again with ND16 and go down to the ND8 if you need to - the more light you can get to the sensor (without overexposing) the better everything will look. Cloudy/Overcast I am almost always shooting with the ND8.

If you just point your drone at something to get a no-filter shutter speed before entering it in the Polar Pro calculator, make sure you don't just point it at the bright sky or it will tell you that you need a way stronger filter than necessary - try to get the most accurate representation of the scene in the "test" scene as possible.

Ok tks for the advise..

That is what i did.. probably it was already late afternoon.. will try on ND 16.

So i set at 4k, 30fps, 1/60, iso 100, dicinelike, 0.0.0 <—- any recommend setting for the sharpness, contras and saturation saw some use -1-1-1 some 0-3-2.. for white balance i set as cloudy..

[emoji848]
 
Ok tks for the advise..

That is what i did.. probably it was already late afternoon.. will try on ND 16.

So i set at 4k, 30fps, 1/60, iso 100, dicinelike, 0.0.0 <—- any recommend setting for the sharpness, contras and saturation saw some use -1-1-1 some 0-3-2.. for white balance i set as cloudy..

[emoji848]

If you want maximum dynamic range, you need to set contrast to -3. You will need to process it though as -3 contrast will look extremely flat (which is what gets you all the DR). If you are color grading your own footage or using a LUT (like Film Poets LUT or similar) I'd suggest -3 contrast, -2 saturation, and 0 sharpness in D-Cinelike. If you don't want to process your video after the fact, you will never get it to look as good as color graded footage, but then I would leave it around 0/0/0.
 
If you want maximum dynamic range, you need to set contrast to -3. You will need to process it though as -3 contrast will look extremely flat (which is what gets you all the DR). If you are color grading your own footage or using a LUT (like Film Poets LUT or similar) I'd suggest -3 contrast, -2 saturation, and 0 sharpness in D-Cinelike. If you don't want to process your video after the fact, you will never get it to look as good as color graded footage, but then I would leave it around 0/0/0.

Ok tks will give a try..

Is those free lut worth to try?

Tks
 
Ok tks will give a try..

Is those free lut worth to try?

Tks

The Film Poets LUT is really good as a "do everything" LUT - I think it's $9 (so cheap it's basically free) and if you don't like it, they will refund you. I haven't tried any free ones but I'm sure there are some good ones out there.
 
The Film Poets LUT is really good as a "do everything" LUT - I think it's $9 (so cheap it's basically free) and if you don't like it, they will refund you. I haven't tried any free ones but I'm sure there are some good ones out there.

Ok tks.. will have alook

[emoji4][emoji106]
 

1st part of the video without nd fliter.

2nd and 3rd part
ND 16, 1/60, iso 100, 4k 30fps 0,-3,-2. Dcinelike
Apply some free LUT found online..

Shot at ard 10am ..

Now it look better... so tat day choose the wrong ND fliter.


[emoji51]
 
Best way to reduse image noise is neatvideo filter.
Mavic Air produce grain in ISO 100 also, so some postproduction is needed.
 
Best way to reduse image noise is neatvideo filter.
Mavic Air produce grain in ISO 100 also, so some postproduction is needed.

Neat video fliter? Is like a plugin need to add in post production?

Using ND8 fliter.

[emoji6]
 
Yes, it is plugin to video editting software.
lE3iaN8.jpg


CSsPBoR.jpg
 
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