No Filter Setting Guide. Please Contribute

[MavicFT1P]

Hi
So this is for all you guys with a set of Filters, or Conversely without, doing Good Photography.

I thought it would be interesting if you had enough knowledge to create a DJI GO camera settings guide
that mimic the effect of ND4, ND8, ND32, PL, and UV Filters.

Pretend you left your 6 Filter pack at home, what settgins would you use to compensate.
I put all the filters down there in the rare case the camera can be adjusted towards them.

Basicaly looking for EV, ISO & Shutter, Any setting that would fill in for the filter you left at home.
Or may not choose to use?
Thankyou

-ND4
-ND8
-ND16
-ND32
-CPL
-UV

Alternatively.
I Listed Conditions, as this may be more practical than trying to replicate a filter.

-Clear,
-Bright Sunlight,
-Sunlight with Cloud,
-Clouds/Overcast,
-Very Low Light (DusK/Dawn shooting)

*Sorry forgot I am shooting at 4K 3840x20160p 30fps. Let's hope most people are


Thanks Again

 

[WithTheBirds]

The polariser will vary in effect with changing angle to the sun so difficult to estimate.

The UV filter has no effect of relevance.

So, your magic number is 1/60sec as the ideal shutter speed (twice frame rate).

Which drone? Mavic 2 smallest aperture is f11- (f2.8 wide open) so you could use the aperture adjustment to influence the exposure in the same way you might leaving aperture set at f2.8 and using the 4,8 and 16ND's. fF5.6=ND4, F8=ND8 and F11=ND16.

If your flying a zoom you have no imaginary filter options in any conditions.

 

[brett8883]

Hi
So this is for all you guys with a set of Filters, or Conversely without, doing Good Photography.

I thought it would be interesting if you had enough knowledge to create a DJI GO camera settings guide
that mimic the effect of ND4, ND8, ND32, PL, and UV Filters.

Pretend you left your 6 Filter pack at home, what settgins would you use to compensate.
I put all the filters down there in the rare case the camera can be adjusted towards them.

Basicaly looking for EV, ISO & Shutter, Any setting that would fill in for the filter you left at home.
Or may not choose to use?
Thankyou

-ND4
-ND8
-ND16
-ND32
-CPL
-UV

Alternatively.
I Listed Conditions, as this may be more practical than trying to replicate a filter.

-Clear,
-Bright Sunlight,
-Sunlight with Cloud,
-Clouds/Overcast,
-Very Low Light (DusK/Dawn shooting)

*Sorry forgot I am shooting at 4K 3840x20160p 30fps. Let's hope most people are


Thanks Again

Yea to tell you the truth it’s just more complicated then that especially with the M2P’s adjustable aperture and M2Z’s optical zoom. It was easier to do this when the MP, MPP, an MA all had fixed focal lengths and apertures.

Since I know you have a MPP and you aren’t giving me an option for an ND 64 I’ll say ND 32 is gonna be your main filter which will take you from after sun up through the beginning of sunset.

ND 16 will be your sunset filter and ND8 and ND 4 will be mainly for dark overcast days and maybe for 20 mins before dusk.

The thing about overcast is the sun doesn’t need to out to be bright so those days really are just gonna be guess and test. I think with experience you get a sort of 3rd sense about what filter you need but even then it’s just guess and test. I tend to over estimate the sun and bring too little filter when I’m wrong.

 

[WithTheBirds]

Yea to tell you the truth it’s just more complicated then that especially with the M2P’s adjustable aperture and M2Z’s optical zoom. It was easier to do this when the MP, MPP, an MA all had fixed focal lengths and apertures.

Since I know you have a MPP and you aren’t giving me an option for an ND 64 I’ll say ND 32 is gonna be your main filter which will take you from after sun up through the beginning of sunset.

ND 16 will be your sunset filter and ND8 and ND 4 will be mainly for dark overcast days and maybe for 20 mins before dusk.

The thing about overcast is the sun doesn’t need to out to be bright so those days really are just gonna be guess and test. I think with experience you get a sort of 3rd sense about what filter you need but even then it’s just guess and test. I tend to over estimate the sun and bring too little filter when I’m wrong.

Easier? It would seem a variable aperture is the only thing that would assist with the OP’s endeavour. The other component in the exposure triangle (ISO) might only prove an option in arriving at a target shutter speed in circumstances where you wouldn’t need an ND for EV0- low light.

 

[brett8883]

Easier? It would seem a variable aperture is the only thing that would assist with the OP’s endeavour. The other component in the exposure triangle (ISO) might only prove an option in arriving at a target shutter speed in circumstances where you wouldn’t need an ND for EV0- low light.

Easier to make into a nice neat chart like requested

 

[WithTheBirds]

Easier to make into a nice neat chart like requested

Ahhhh- gotcha... fair enough but unless I missed the intent the chart is to provide camera settings for circumstances where the filters are at home. The only thing the chart might provide is aperture settings. Quicker (and more accurate) to simply move the thumb wheel on the controller than rely on a chart.

30 FPS with Target TV of 1/60s. Close the aperture until you arrive at 1/60s. At ISO 100 f11 will obviously provide the same EV as shooting at f2.8 with an ND16. In instances where you might need the ND32 you left at home (above EV0 of 1/1000 @f2.8) you just have to live with the TV being 1/125.

 

[brett8883]

Ahhhh- gotcha... fair enough but unless I missed the intent the chart is to provide camera settings for circumstances where the filters are at home. The only thing the chart might provide is aperture settings. Quicker (and more accurate) to simply move the thumb wheel on the controller than rely on a chart.

30 FPS with Target TV of 1/60s. Close the aperture until you arrive at 1/60s. At ISO 100 f11 will obviously provide the same EV as shooting at f2.8 with an ND16. In instances where you might need the ND32 you left at home (above EV0 of 1/1000 @f2.8) you just have to live with the TV being 1/125.

I did miss that part thanks. Disregard my previous message I misunderstood the question entirely.

***You could even use shutter priority with manual ISO and AE lock. Though admittedly the manual dial is pretty dang easy.***

***Edit: this only applies to the Mavic 2 Pro which has an adjustable aperture.

 

[WithTheBirds]

This is the the chart he needs....

 

[WithTheBirds]

P

Here’s a refined question and you might be the guy for the job @WithTheBirds. If you didn’t have your ND filters and had a fixed aperture is there a formula that could give you best combination of “compromises” of motion blur, under/over exposure and ISO?

For instance would it be better to be 1/30 and 100 ISO or 1/60 at 200 ISO?

NO.

There are no settings that would get you anywhere near your proposed settings at any times outside civil/nautical start/end without significant overexposure.

 

[Racin8de]

How about some of you good video and photographers post settings with filters. Like Hyperlapse, timelapse, sunny vs hazy conditions. I know it's asking alot. But I have some incredible photographs and videos on this forumn.. Share you secrets..

 

[brett8883]

P

NO.

There are no settings that would get you anywhere near your proposed settings at any times outside civil/nautical start/end without significant overexposure.

I realized it was a dumb question and deleted it immediately but you were too quick to the draw

 

[Scott Kei]

Have you seen the Polar Pro phone app?

 

[MavicFT1P]

Thanks for the chart WTB

If they

Have you seen the Polar Pro phone app?

I have not. I have no PolarPro product to compare with.
Will check it out. It's good i trust?
Doesnt hack me if i buy other filters

 

[brett8883]

How about some of you good video and photographers post settings with filters. Like Hyperlapse, timelapse, sunny vs hazy conditions. I know it's asking alot. But I have some incredible photographs and videos on this forumn.. Share you secrets..

This was a tough scene to shoot because of the backlit white mountains but it was C4K 24 fps 1/50 ND 16 D-Cinelike 0 sharpness, -1 contrast, +1 saturation.

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

 

[Scott Kei]

Thanks for the chart WTB

If they


I have not. I have no PolarPro product to compare with.
Will check it out. It's good i trust?
Doesnt hack me if i buy other filters

They have an app that suggest what filter to use. Letting reverse thinking should get you close.

 

[Smokieflies]

Or use a exposure wheel, has ISO, Aperature, And shutter together.

 

[MavicFT1P]

+1 for that. Cheers.
Excuse my own thread digression but you gotta Love Sliderules.
Dr Strangelove Special:



Theres a bunch of especially gloomy ones here.
If you've been watching Chernobyl on HBO, they may pique your interest..

Cold War Calculators – Calculating

Posts about Cold War Calculators written by mrslippery

calculating.wordpress.com