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Uugh i return all of my physics knowledge back to my teacher so that he can teach more students ;)

Thank u for your infos, I'm going to find another preferable place
I saw on another thread that launching your mavic from a rock might interfere with mavic's compas, is it true?
Coz my next preferable place to do the test is a huge a*s rock mountain, easily accesible by car

You have to try, did not hear about the rock thing before. Just try from this restaurant first , see what happens. Because of the cell twr your HD or RC symbol might flash, maybe even not. I have 1 of those 100 m behind me, still I have great signal although my HD flashes all the time. Maybe signal will be better without it but I really cannot tell yet, these friggin things are at every good LoS location for obvious reason: LoS.
 
The best I could do today. Bone stock running .800

nice! 18k bone stock is great. Best i had the b@lls for was about 15k stock battery! :D

I agree with Digdat LG, nice stock flight!
if I can be perfectly honest here, after I get my bird up and running I don't know if I want to run it distance. not only because of the critical autoland situation, but that is the biggest reason, but also because it just doesn't seem to have a lot of traction here. The Mavic goes 10 miles and gets a couple mentions and then doesn't get another comment for three days. Almost seems like there's not enough interest in the distance runs on the Mavic to risk it all.
@unknowncaller. what happened to you? not good weather, I know in the past you've crashed some birds and not mentioned it, has your Mavic to took drink in the pool. I guess I just thought this thread was going somewhere fast and it don't seem like it is now. what's your guys feeling on this, is the interest gone, has the distance got set so high already that nobody wants to risk their Mavic?(Believe me I don't feel like it's as expendable as other aircrafts I have)! is it the critical land thing?
 
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I agree with Digdat LG, nice stock flight!
if I can be perfectly honest here, after I get my bird up and running I don't know if I want to run it distance. not only because of the critical autoland situation, but that is the biggest reason, but also because it just doesn't seem to have a lot of traction here. The Mavic goes 10 miles and gets a couple mentions and then doesn't get another comment for three days. Almost seems like there's not enough interest in the distance runs on the Mavic to risk it all.
@unknowncaller. what happened to you? not good weather, I know in the past you've crashed some birds and not mentioned it, has your Mavic to took drink in the pool. I guess I just thought this thread was going somewhere fast and it don't seem like it is now. what's your guys feeling on this, is the interest gone, has the distance got set so high already that nobody wants to risk their Mavic?(Believe me I don't feel like it's as expendable as other aircrafts I have)! is it the critical land thing?

I'm interested but as you know time and family things have cut into my free time. I did get a chance to test some small batteries on Monday and did an easy/conservative 5.2mi @ 20-50ft over the bay. I still have more options to try. I was all set to test out another set of batteries yesterday but got a battery authentication error which seems to require me to contact DJI support. That was the only battery I had charged at the time so I just scrubbed the plans. I plan to test sometime this weekend if weather cooperates.

I agree the traction of this thread doesn't compare to the ones on phantompilots for the P3/P4. I think it's due to multiple reasons:

1. Mavic still kinda new for most people and not willing to lose it.

2. P3 had a lot of P2 guys who were in it early and involved in tinkering when these were all still new so when the P3 came out with lightbridge it was heavy geeking out time.

3. More "regular" Joe's buying drones and just use them for their intended purposes and nothing else.

4. Restrictions and awareness of laws/rules in combination with DJI restrictions in firmware and Go apps.

5. Only a few people doing actual productive testing and posting valid information backed up with data that is collected in a manner that makes it hold-up. The rest just asking for the best setup and redundant questions [emoji3]. I know I haven't contributed much to this thread yet but that's my observation after reading through and also being heavily involved in the P3 distance game.

Regardless, I'm still going to tinker when I can. I'll contribute my results if I feel they would help anyone out.

Maybe the Mavic doesn't have the potential that the P3 did due to motor power?

I'm totally willing to lose my Mavic in the process. I've had it since launch and it's all gravy from here on out lol! But I do make calculated risks and try not to make stupid decisions.

I was intending to do a direct power mod but I think I will hold off on that for a while. The clip is a little cumbersome when trying to arrange batteries and route wires. I almost want to do the direct power mod to make that easier but I like being able to keep it stock just in case.
 
I'm interested but as you know time and family things have cut into my free time. I did get a chance to test some small batteries on Monday and did an easy/conservative 5.2mi @ 20-50ft over the bay. I still have more options to try. I was all set to test out another set of batteries yesterday but got a battery authentication error which seems to require me to contact DJI support. That was the only battery I had charged at the time so I just scrubbed the plans. I plan to test sometime this weekend if weather cooperates.

I agree the traction of this thread doesn't compare to the ones on phantompilots for the P3/P4. I think it's due to multiple reasons:

1. Mavic still kinda new for most people and not willing to lose it.

2. P3 had a lot of P2 guys who were in it early and involved in tinkering when these were all still new so when the P3 came out with lightbridge it was heavy geeking out time.

3. More "regular" Joe's buying drones and just use them for their intended purposes and nothing else.

4. Restrictions and awareness of laws/rules in combination with DJI restrictions in firmware and Go apps.

5. Only a few people doing actual productive testing and posting valid information backed up with data that is collected in a manner that makes it hold-up. The rest just asking for the best setup and redundant questions [emoji3]. I know I haven't contributed much to this thread yet but that's my observation after reading through and also being heavily involved in the P3 distance game.

Regardless, I'm still going to tinker when I can. I'll contribute my results if I feel they would help anyone out.

Maybe the Mavic doesn't have the potential that the P3 did due to motor power?

I'm totally willing to lose my Mavic in the process. I've had it since launch and it's all gravy from here on out lol! But I do make calculated risks and try not to make stupid decisions.

I was intending to do a direct power mod but I think I will hold off on that for a while. The clip is a little cumbersome when trying to arrange batteries and route wires. I almost want to do the direct power mod to make that easier but I like being able to keep it stock just in case.

5.2 miles is excellent! Isn't it nice that you can fly drama free for 5.2 miles and keep the stockish flight characteristics with smaller batteries? I often fly with dial 1500s which work great! I'm in Germany for a few weeks and flew yesterday in a good wind. Flew like a champ with those 1500s.
 
Also just started playing the distance stuff here. Not really looking for huge numbers but we ll see where it ends up. In CE region, at least my area stock was just hopeless. Took sime time to get a proper boosted system finetuned and almost there. Got just over 30.000' with dual small LiPo packs and waiting for the winds to calm down so i can try the LiHV packs. Cannot post visual stuff cause authorities are on top of stuff, don t want to throw them bones.
I actually do not mind risking the mavic but i am worried that, when i lose it i will have to buy a new one that has undergone DJI lobotomy. See, i still run FW .0200 and keep my interface offline so the chinese gremlins cannot enter. You seen how they expanded the NFZ around China airports? Gives me the creeps already. Sacrificing the unit means more than just the hardware nowadays and that spoils it.
 
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5.2 miles is excellent! Isn't it nice that you can fly drama free for 5.2 miles and keep the stockish flight characteristics with smaller batteries? I often fly with dial 1500s which work great! I'm in Germany for a few weeks and flew yesterday in a good wind. Flew like a champ with those 1500s.

Yeah I wasn't about to play "press your luck" when my whole route was entirely over water. I did that last year and flew the P3 9.2mi to 1%... After that I realized I was gambling and the house was stacked against me. DB brought talked some sense into me or I would have surely lost it in the drink eventually. That P3 is a freak and is capable of really great numbers. I've flown it over 40min on a single MS 5200, no gimbal reduction or anything. And that was into a headwind where sometimes I was going 18mph! I just haven't had the time to fly as much as I'd like.

Smaller batteries are a good baseline to see how lightweight and just an extra boost in mAh can change things. Plus like you said, hardly affects flight characteristics. Really finding that sweet spot between weight and mAh is the fun part for me. It's interesting how sometimes the longest flight time combinations could be with a super heavy battery with much more mAh capacity but only gains a little bit over a significantly lighter battery. Trading efficiency and longevity for a few extra seconds. lol
 
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Yeah I wasn't about to play "press your luck" when my whole route was entirely over water. I did that last year and flew the P3 9.2mi to 1%... After that I realized I was gambling and the house was stacked against me. DB brought talked some sense into me or I would have surely lost it in the drink eventually. That P3 is a freak and is capable of really great numbers. I've flown it over 40min on a single MS 5200, no gimbal reduction or anything. And that was into a headwind where sometimes I was going 18mph! I just haven't had the time to fly as much as I'd like.

Smaller batteries are a good baseline to see how lightweight and just an extra boost in mAh can change things. Plus like you said, hardly affects flight characteristics. Really finding that sweet spot between weight and mAh is the fun part for me. It's interesting how sometimes the longest flight time combinations could be with a super heavy battery with much more mAh capacity but only gains a little bit over a significantly lighter battery. Trading efficiency and longevity for a few extra seconds. lol

Yes, well for general flying 250 grams or lighter works really well. With that amount of weight, the handling in wind is still good. Any heavier and you need to start be careful with any wind and using gentle control inputs. The extra current available from the external batteries helps to offset a little of the weight. I find that the Mavic battery runs a little cooler having a proportional amount of the current coming from the external batteries. Now when I fly with my dual 4000s that's around 600grams of extra weight. That's really pushing it for the Mavic. I always watch my tachometer and keep the RPM/Power meter below 80%. BTW, did you know you can display the tachometer in P-mode? Simply set the mode switch to Sport Mode BEFORE you turn on controller. Turn controller on BEFORE Mavic. Then turn on Mavic. Mavic will be in P-mode, but you'll get the tachometer/Power information. This works on my Ipad Mini 4. Not sure about other devices.
 
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tachometer in p-mode displays on my ipad mini 2 but not on iphone 5s
If you use ipad mini, both the Radar/Tachometer and the Map are displayed. If you are using iphone, only one of them is displayed. You can choose either Map or Radar by tapping the small symbol on the top right of the small radar/map window.
 
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3774e0ca9192134e4acb767c28c1c652.jpg
 
Just noticed this topic, so I decided to take a peek at my flight records and what do ya know...I can squeeze that top 10 stock list. Sweet!

The leaderboard distance is maximum distance reached away from controller, not total flight distance. So for a distance of 27,000, you would have had to fly over 54,000 round trip.
 
The leaderboard distance is maximum distance reached away from controller, not total flight distance. So for a distance of 27,000, you would have had to fly over 54,000 round trip.

Ah bummer, whoops.. That's crazy though. Thanks for setting that straight.
 
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If you use ipad mini, both the Radar/Tachometer and the Map are displayed. If you are using iphone, only one of them is displayed. You can choose either Map or Radar by tapping the small symbol on the top right of the small radar/map window.

Can confirm this. I only have DJI Go 4 on my iphone and now I'm afraid it's too late to put Go 4 on my ipad since the new restrictions in the app. I used to be jailbroken and could install old versions but I'm not now. So for now, I'm using my iphone for Mavic using an older version of Go.
 
Yes, well for general flying 250 grams or lighter works really well. With that amount of weight, the handling in wind is still good. Any heavier and you need to start be careful with any wind and using gentle control inputs. The extra current available from the external batteries helps to offset a little of the weight. I find that the Mavic battery runs a little cooler having a proportional amount of the current coming from the external batteries. Now when I fly with my dual 4000s that's around 600grams of extra weight. That's really pushing it for the Mavic. I always watch my tachometer and keep the RPM/Power meter below 80%. BTW, did you know you can display the tachometer in P-mode? Simply set the mode switch to Sport Mode BEFORE you turn on controller. Turn controller on BEFORE Mavic. Then turn on Mavic. Mavic will be in P-mode, but you'll get the tachometer/Power information. This works on my Ipad Mini 4. Not sure about other devices.

Hope to test 3 1700s this weekend. Coming in at 336.6g for 5100mAh.
 
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Can confirm this. I only have DJI Go 4 on my iphone and now I'm afraid it's too late to put Go 4 on my ipad since the new restrictions in the app. I used to be jailbroken and could install old versions but I'm not now. So for now, I'm using my iphone for Mavic using an older version of Go.

Regarding installing Go 4 app on your ipad, you should get the same version on your ipad as you have on your phone. When you go to the app store there should be a restore option provided that you have icloud. Just turn off auto updates.
 
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