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Panning photography

Jovetic

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Hello guys,

Im trying to make panning photo from MP2 Pro , do you know what are properly configs for that? I know shutter speed should be 1/60+ and drone should be same speed as object. What about auto focus , nd filters are needed?

Thanks
 
In terms of the nd filters, that's more to control the exposure than anything else. The ND filter will make you open up your f-stop or lower shutter speed to accommodate the lower light levels let in through the filter. This can sometimes come at the cost of ISO (the lower the ISO the less noise that can occur in the image). So if you are in super bright environments that would normally make you drop the f-stop or raise the shutter then an ND filter would help. But if it means you have to change the ISO higher to accommodate the lower light to get the f-stop and shutter speed you want, you to have to take that compromise into consideration. Polarizing filters, on the other hand, can help cut reflections or help define cloud structure while minimizing the effect on exposure values.

Other than that it seems like you have a handle on what you need to do in order to get a good pan, dolly, or tracking shot. With a moving subject I often like tracking or dolly shots because it keeps a subject stable in the frame so my composition doesn't change as the subject gets nearer and farther from the camera like it does in a panning shot (but that change in relationship to the camera) in and of itself has used and provides a nice effect in certain situations.

You could also use cinema mode on the M2P to smooth out the shot if the drone is moving while shooting. It softens the start, stop, and turning accelerations so that you run less risk of a jerky start or stop to your shot.

Hope that helps, sorry if it was more then you wanted to hear. :)
 
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I use AF and click on the subject just before shooting to set it on the spot I want. I use a pixel 3 so I cant see enough detail to manual focus. I have not had any issues with the focus shifting during shots. I would test it for yourself and find your preference. Manual focus during a pan would require the focus to shift during the shot. Rack focusing is a skill that definitely takes a steady hand and some practice to perfect. For me, one less adjustment to worry about is worth the sacrifice (not that I noticed the sacrifice) especially when concentrating on flying at the same time.
 
I use AF and click on the subject just before shooting to set it on the spot I want. I use a pixel 3 so I cant see enough detail to manual focus. I have not had any issues with the focus shifting during shots. I would test it for yourself and find your preference. Manual focus during a pan would require the focus to shift during the shot. Rack focusing is a skill that definitely takes a steady hand and some practice to perfect. For me, one less adjustment to worry about is worth the sacrifice (not that I noticed the sacrifice) especially when concentrating on flying at the same time.

These small lens have a very large depth of field.

Unless one is very close to the subjects, focus is not much of an issue when panning unless focus wasn't established correctly to begin with.
 
In terms of the nd filters, that's more to control the exposure than anything else. The ND filter will make you open up your f-stop or lower shutter speed to accommodate the lower light levels let in through the filter. This can sometimes come at the cost of ISO (the lower the ISO the less noise that can occur in the image). So if you are in super bright environments that would normally make you drop the f-stop or raise the shutter then an ND filter would help. But if it means you have to change the ISO higher to accommodate the lower light to get the f-stop and shutter speed you want, you to have to take that compromise into consideration. Polarizing filters, on the other hand, can help cut reflections or help define cloud structure while minimizing the effect on exposure values.

Other than that it seems like you have a handle on what you need to do in order to get a good pan, dolly, or tracking shot. With a moving subject I often like tracking or dolly shots because it keeps a subject stable in the frame so my composition doesn't change as the subject gets nearer and farther from the camera like it does in a panning shot (but that change in relationship to the camera) in and of itself has used and provides a nice effect in certain situations.

You could also use cinema mode on the M2P to smooth out the shot if the drone is moving while shooting. It softens the start, stop, and turning accelerations so that you run less risk of a jerky start or stop to your shot.

Hope that helps, sorry if it was more then you wanted to hear. :)
I think he was talking about a still photo, not a video.
 
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I think he was talking about a still photo, not a video.
I guess it's possible, but I am not sure how one does a panning still?
 
I think he was talking about a still photo, not a video.
I guess it's possible but I assumed the op would have corrected me when he replied with additional questions. It's an odd combination of words in the title so I latched onto panning. Not sure if there were some language barriers.
 
I guess it's possible, but I am not sure how one does a panning still?
In still photography, the phrase "panning" refers to moving the camera to follow the subject with a slow shutter speed, so the background get blurred but you get the subject focused. Like this bus picture.
 

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In still photography, the phrase "panning" refers to moving the camera to follow the subject with a slow shutter speed, so the background get blurred but you get the subject focused. Like this bus picture.
Makes sense now that I think back on it. A lot of the info still applies it would seem. Again would have thought the OP would have corrected given I was pretty clear about referencing video.
 
The OP used the phrase "panning photo", which is in common use in still photography.
 
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