If gimbal clamp is holding gimbal, it's easier and safer to install/push on the filter.
Marty
Ps. Don't forget to remove the clamp after installing filter.
Marty
Ps. Don't forget to remove the clamp after installing filter.
For the moment I gave up on their filters. Too much hassle and, in my view, a possible menace for the gimbal's integrity, depending on tolerances.
I will certainly consider their products in the future, including filters if things are sorted out, because their support is second to none.
They offered to test and hand-select a new replacement batch or, alternatively, a full refund. (I have Taco-RCs on the way).
I opted for the refund, which was processed with a speed that I didn't know was even possible.
MK
I've been looking for the right ND filters for my Mavic for awhile now. Got burned by one filter set purchase that gave me motor overload messages and gimbal alerts when I tried using them. I was thinking about getting Polar Pro's Cinema Series filters. Do you happen to be familiar with them or know if they are worth getting? Or are the Taco filters the way to go do you think?
Thanks for any input you can give me. I don't want to waste my time or money again.
The Polar Pro Cinema series can be left on during startup, they clear all obstacles plus you def. need that ND32. I have a set of Neewer filters that I have to put on after I start the bird but it doesn't bother me much. I may upgrade but I needed a set sooner than the Cinema series would be avail.
I'm a little surprised to hear people saying this. For me, the filters go on so easy. I just turn the mavic upside down, pinch the camera between my fingers and push the filter on. No problem. I personally don't see any reason to use the gimbal lock.
For me, the problem is taking the filter off. I have had some serious struggles with that.
When would you def. need an ND32?
Any mechanical design will be manufactured within a certain tolerance. Higher tolerance equals higher cost so good engineering practice is to not over-tolerance parts. This is something I always have to teach new engineers.
This may be something we and PolarPro are fighting. I have no clue what the inside diameter tolerance is on the PolarPro filters but if I were designing the mount the ID tolerance would be pretty tight. The other issue is that DJI likely has a relatively loose tolerance on the camera outside diameter because it's cheaper and there would be no reason to make it tight.
Our standard tolerance on parts is +/-.010 of an inch. This is good enough for most feature dimension but I regularly dimension features that are +.0000 / -.0003. At my previous job in the semiconductor equipment field we had one part that went to about .00005. That was an expensive bugger as the equipment and facility was very specialized for this precision work.
There will naturally be extremes of fits on the filters. If you are the unlucky soul who has a camera OD that's on the high side of the tolerance and you have a filter that is on the small side of the tolerance, it will be very difficult to install. The opposite is also true where some filters could end up feeling like they may fall off. And of course the ones in the middle may very well fit nicely.
Check out this modification () and give opinions whether or not the Polar Pro filter will still function effectively i.e. Will light get in?
I am still waiting to order the best filters, although this method does seem like a solution for easier removal of filters on a camera which have a larger tolerance.
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