Propeller screws won't budge

[hawke]

I was planning to test-drive the drone outside on a hike tomorrow, after unsuccessful indoor flights led to crashes and propeller damage. I had bought replacement propellers. I have managed to unscrew all the old propellers except 3 that won't budge. I tried using 3-in-1 multi-purpose oil and WD-40, and/or a power drill, either or both of which have always worked before for similar situations involving stuck parts.

I attached photos of the drone with the propellers that are stuck due to the screws that won't budge, and a photo of the propellers that I was able to remove.

Would the remaining propellers cause issues if they are left on, if I otherwise put new propellers on the rest? If they would cause issues, how would you advise I proceed at this stage?

 

[Torque]

You will need to replace all the props unfortunately. Are the screw heads stripped or are they just stuck? Do you have DJI Care Refresh? I had this issue with my Mini 3 Pro and couldn't remove two screws after stripping the heads, I had to send it back to DJI for a replacement.

 

[mavic3usa]

Send it back to DJI.

 

[hawke]

Thanks for your suggestions. I definitely already thought about sending it to DJI. I don't have the care package that was offered in the first 48h so I'm not sure what my options are, but I'll look into it further. However, first I think I'll give it one more attempt on my end. I have just ordered the Wera 05345290001 2050 PH 000 x 40 mm. I think I've seen this particular screwdriver mentioned at least a few other times for these screws so hopefully it works. I already tried a few other screwdrivers today which seemed to fit but none turned the screws. I also ordered a screw extractor set in case the screw is beyond a functional state although I heard luck varies with these.

 

[Dronecation]

Thanks for your suggestions. I definitely already thought about sending it to DJI. I don't have the care package that was offered in the first 48h so I'm not sure what my options are, but I'll look into it further. However, first I think I'll give it one more attempt on my end. I have just ordered the Wera 05345290001 2050 PH 000 x 40 mm. I think I've seen this particular screwdriver mentioned at least a few other times for these screws so hopefully it works. I already tried a few other screwdrivers today which seemed to fit but none turned the screws. I also ordered a screw extractor set in case the screw is beyond a functional state although I heard luck varies with these.

This may sound strange, but it has worked many a time for me. I have used a large manual impact driver with a tight fitting on the screwhead and just turn the driver by hand [without hitting it with a hammer] - the large grip and steady pressure helps turn the screwhead without stripping it.

 

[fd123_2000]

As a last ditch effort i have had great success using wire dykes and grabbing the top of the screws sideways creating an indention that has worked more times than not! best of luck.

 

[Starz]

The better screwdriver is the key here.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

wire dykes

What is/are "wire dykes"?

 

[okw]

What is/are "wire dykes"?

It's what many people (at least here in the US) call diagonal cutters.

 

[old man mavic]

@cmhawke as a last resort before you send it in to DJI carefully remove the plastic prop from the spigot that mounts it to the motor without damaging the spigot, and you will be left with the screw head exposed ,grip the head with a good pair of pliers, and try to gently turn ,it if you are lucky ,then after it has began to move then it should come out cleanly
the only real danger of this method is that the head of the tiny screw could shear off if this happens then its game over

 

[tahoejeff]

Try placing your screwdriver on the screw head, then use a soldering iron or a torch (very carefully) to heat up the screwdriver shaft somewhat. The heat should transfer to the screw threads, releasing the thread lock chemical.
Use care, as too much heat will damage the solder on the motor.

 

[hawke]

Thanks for the suggestions since my last reply, I'll look into these.

An update on my end. There were 3 props left.

The Wera 05345290001 2050 PH screwdriver either helped get 1 screw off, or it was already loosened from the 3-in-1 and WD40 applied earlier.

The other 2 screws still wouldn't budge. I cut off the bulk of the props using scissors so they wouldn't get in the way. I tried a Be91eiter screw extractor set, but it did nothing.

I figured using the hammer+screwdriver trick could damage other components of the drone.

So my most recent decision was to go the exacto+plier root. But I don't see how the remainder of the props can be effectively cut, based on how close they sit to the drone, the angles required for cutting, and the prop material being quite hard for the knife. Earlier, the scissors actually seemed much more effective for cutting the bulk of the props off than the knife, but obviously scissors are not an option for the prop remainders.

Thanks for any suggestions on the above, and again I've noted down the new suggestions and will look into these.

Btw, I'm surprised that props on this $900 device are not repairable without tearing it apart (and I evidently didn't receive a fluke; many people have experienced this issue with this model). Fortunately it was a gift.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

DO NOT attempt to drill out the screws or anything even remotely similar, you'll probably end up getting steel swarf in the motor and or cutting the head off the screw.
Using a SHARP Stanley knife etc. cut away the material that surrounds the head of the screw then grip the head of the screw with pliers or wire cutters and twist the screw out.

If you can't cut it, melt it in stages with a soldering iron, or use a needle file or maybe even a nail file to flie away yhr plastic without touching the steel

 

[MS Coast]

DO NOT attempt to drill out the screws or anything even remotely similar, you'll probably end up getting steel swarf in the motor and or cutting the head off the screw.
Using a SHARP Stanley knife etc. cut away the material that surrounds the head of the screw then grip the head of the screw with pliers or wire cutters and twist the screw out.

If you can't cut it, melt it in stages with a soldering iron.

How about an abrasive disc on a Dremel tool to cut away the hub?

Reading about this has made me much more careful not the damage the props on the Mini 3 Pro.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

How about an abrasive disc on a Dremel tool to cut away the hub?

Reading about this has made me much more careful not the damage the props on the Mini 3 Pro.

Personally I think it too risky, it may cut too quickly and easily and bring the disc into contact with the steel and then you end up with swarf and abrasive particles in the motor. Bearing in mind oil and WD40 have already been applied I think you end up with a nightmare.
I might even try a finger-held junior-hack-saw blade, it will create plastic saw dust but I'd feel as soon as it touched the screw head.

 

[hawke]

I have a Stanley 10-299 with me and started cutting at it horizontally in the middle but it seems it would take hours. I'll look into the other suggestions, thanks.

 

[dennisj]

Heat up the screw a bit with a soldering iron then turn the screw with vampire pliers, they have jaws that are specifically suited to remove screws.

 

[Yorkshire_Pud]

I have a Stanley 10-299 with me and started cutting at it horizontally in the middle but it seems it would take hours. I'll look into the other suggestions, thanks.

Did you happen to notice that I said "cut away the material that surrounds the head of the screw then grip the head of the screw with pliers or wire cutters and twist the screw out." ?

I.e cut away ONLY the material needed to expose the head of the screw and maybe a mm below the head, cutting away the rest of the blade hub serves no purpose

 

[hawke]

Thanks for reiterating. Even cutting at the head, it would've taken hours, if even. The plastic is pretty robust for that knife.

Now used these:

Klein D275-5 precision flush cutter:
It slowly flaked away at the remaining prop plastic, otherwise didn't do much else. I aimed for the head but inconvenient angles and/or lackluster function seemed to prevent precise cuts.

Dremel 4300 5/40 with metal cutting wheel, with a plier to hold the gray motor bits in place:
It slowly eroded the remaining prop plastic but after a few minutes seemed to reached a standstill; didn't notice further erosion. 5,000-15,000 RPM.

Used pliers throughout to turn and yank at the screws.

I'd be sending it to DJI as a next step.

 

[vindibona1]

@cmhawke as a last resort before you send it in to DJI carefully remove the plastic prop from the spigot that mounts it to the motor without damaging the spigot, and you will be left with the screw head exposed ,grip the head with a good pair of pliers, and try to gently turn ,it if you are lucky ,then after it has began to move then it should come out cleanly
the only real danger of this method is that the head of the tiny screw could shear off if this happens then its game over

I hadn't thought of that but is great advice. If the screw head is stripped this is pretty much your only option short of sending the whole thing to DJI.

It is a known issue with Mini 3's that the screws are nearly impossible to remove, at least with the provided "toy" screw driver. I've posted in much earlier posts about the issue, so here again is what I will say about that.

1) Buy a GOOD screw driver like this one...
Screwdriver from Amazon

2) Before anything else, preemptively take that screwdriver and unscrew each screw enough so that they break the bond with the motor to make them easier to change later on especially if you have to change a prop in the field. Of course re-tighten (common sense).

3) Pack the new screwdriver in the case with your drone and spare props. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.