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Proper ND filters and settings

Just hold the filter with your thumb and index finger, look through it from the back side and rotate a half a turn back and forth. Look for darkening in the sky, popping of clouds or for reflections being lessened. You'll see the difference and know where you need to have it rotated. Put it on the lens in that position and you're good to go.
Also note that the effect varies depending in which direction you are looking/filming.
 
What is recommended then, PL or non-PL, multi-coat or non-multi-coat or is it a matter of taste?

I have not specifically tested the Taco and PP filters yet, but in general multi-coats are preferred because they both reduce internal reflections and also are usually much less prone to adding a color cast to images.


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Also note that the effect varies depending in which direction you are looking/filming.

Yes the greatest amount of polarization happens when you are pointing 90 degrees from the angle of the sun, and tapers off as you pan toward the sun or towards 180 degrees from the sun. Sometimes it might make the sky too dark and you'll want to ease off on the rotation of the filter.
 
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Set your shutter speed to twice your frame rate then install the ND filter that gives a proper exposure level.

There are a ton of videos on YouTube showing examples of this.

What about the ISO ?
 
Yes the greatest amount of polarization happens when you are pointing 90 degrees from the angle of the sun, and tapers off as you pan toward the sun or towards 180 degrees from the sun. Sometimes it might make the sky too dark and you'll want to ease off on the rotation of the filter.

BTW, I am reluctant to use a polarizer on Mavic with blue sky. Generally polarizers can be problematic on wide angles (uneven sky darkness) and they could produce strange effects when panning as the angle changes. However, they are very useful to eliminate water reflections and improve foliage color.
 
However the good news is we have a lot of limited edition filters in the pipeline for users who want the stronger ND/PL filters :)

-Jeff

Hi Jeff

Looking to buy a set of polarpro vivid really like this set as they have PL which is important to me, but I'm visiting Aruba later on in the year and an ND32/PL would be a great edition over that beautiful Caribbean sea and sand any chance of one of these being in the limited edition? If so any idea on timeline?
Stuart
 
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Hi Jeff

Looking to buy a set of polarpro vivid really like this set as they have PL which is important to me, but I'm visiting Aruba later on in the year and an ND32/PL would be a great edition over that beautiful Caribbean sea and sand any chance of one of these being in the limited edition? If so any idea on timeline?
Stuart

Hi Stuart,
Yes, that is one of the filters which will be launched in a limited qty.
They are currently in development with many other filters :)
We do not have timing information available.

Jeff
 
Im using DJI filters, but the dont give that blue cloud feel.
Also. The last ND16 they have, which doesnt let u go reach around 1/50 , it only blocks light till 1/100 or even more.

DJI should have sold ND32 too.
 
Hi Stuart,
Yes, that is one of the filters which will be launched in a limited qty.
They are currently in development with many other filters :)
We do not have timing information available.

Jeff

Hello Jeff,

please, can you announce us, when ND32/PL filter will be available for order?

Regards!
Ondrej
 
Im using DJI filters, but the dont give that blue cloud feel.
Also. The last ND16 they have, which doesnt let u go reach around 1/50 , it only blocks light till 1/100 or even more.

DJI should have sold ND32 too.

If I'm understanding you correctly when you say "blue cloud feel" I think you're confusing a ND filter with a Polarizer. Polas will help reduce reflection and darken the sky/make the clouds pop, NDs are strictly for reducing exposure. And as far as the shutter speed, an ND filter can only do so much depending on conditions. On some days you won't need anything over ND16, but on others yes you may want a ND32. The rule 'shutter should be twice your frame rate' is just the optimal setting it's not to say you can't go over that. Say your out shooting 30fps 1/60 shutter and the ND16 isn't good enough, well just up your shutter speed to 1/120 and as far as exposure that's the same as an ND32. It won't be a drastic change and as far as jello/rolling shutter you should be fine.
 
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My ND filters just came in. I'm a complete noob, but understand that I want ISO 100, FPS 30, and shutter at 1/60. So I slapped the ND16 on (in mostly-sunny FL afternoon) and watched the values.

Right away I was seeing 1/30, 1/60, and 1/120, depending on where the lens was aimed. At ground level it was at 1/30, at altitude facing the ground, it was 1/60. With equal parts sky/ground it was 1/120.

Later, on playback, I enabled the SRT file to show caption values. There I noticed the ISO value was really trying to compensate. At the 1/30, the ISO was 200-ish. As the subject became brighter, the ISO dropped back down to 100, at which point the shutter speed kicked up to 1/60.

Stupid question, but does that mean I should be locking the ISO to 100 manually? Or does leaving it in auto completely undo what benefits I may have gained otherwise?
 
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My ND filters just came in. I'm a complete noob, but understand that I want ISO 100, FPS 30, and shutter at 1/60. So I slapped the ND16 on (in mostly-sunny FL afternoon) and watched the values.

Right away I was seeing 1/30, 1/60, and 1/120, depending on where the lens was aimed. At ground level it was at 1/30, at altitude facing the ground, it was 1/60. With equal parts sky/ground it was 1/120.

Later, on playback, I enabled the SRT file to show caption values. There I noticed the ISO value was really trying to compensate. At the 1/30, the ISO was 200-ish. As the subject became brighter, the ISO dropped back down to 100, at which point the shutter speed kicked up to 1/60.

Stupid question, but does that mean I should be locking the ISO to 100 manually? Or does leaving it in auto completely undo what benefits I may have gained otherwise?

Unfortunately, there is no shutter-priority mode on Mavic Pro, you need to switch to manual mode to set proper shutter speed. As you pan around or light changes, you may need to adjust shutter speed and/or ISO manually.
 
I WOULD LOVE TO have an ND filter in a form of a Gimbal Globe Cover!
Please someone make it!
It would not interfere with gimbal movements, would be easy to install and would serve as extra level of protection -just like the current cover does.
It would be cool to have few of these gimbal covers made out of quality plastic: clear, ND8, ND16, ND32

Bad idea.
You bought a 4K camera and want a piece of plastic in front of the lens which will degrade the picture a lot. If this is the way you capture your footage and if you like it you don't need filters at all.


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Great. I just bought the polar pro set that comes with ND4, ND8 and ND16. By the sound of it from this discussion, they should drop the ND4 and add an ND32.
I always thought the ND32 sounded extreme and wouldn't need it. I assumed the 16 would be good for sunny day snow stuff in the mountains... but sounds like I should have a 32. Always... just when I think I'm done spending money on this thing.... :eek:

The ND 4 can be used at sunset.


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Bad idea.
You bought a 4K camera and want a piece of plastic in front of the lens which will degrade the picture a lot. If this is the way you capture your footage and if you like it you don't need filters at all.


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the new DJI Drones ARE plastic, the current Gimbal covers are passable and no, I don't depend on crisp footage. good cinematography does not rely on sharpness. DVD's have 480p resolution. realistic motion blur is more valuable than a 4k resolution image unless you are filming a fighting scene. Let me guess, you're filming landscapes?
 
the new DJI Drones ARE plastic, the current Gimbal covers are passable and no, I don't depend on crisp footage. good cinematography does not rely on sharpness. DVD's have 480p resolution. realistic motion blur is more valuable than a 4k resolution image unless you are filming a fighting scene. Let me guess, you're filming landscapes?

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Motion blur is usually controlled by frame rate.
"Realistic" motion blur has nothing to do with resolution.

Shoot 4K at 24fps and stick a nice ND filter (8, 16, 32). In post you can soften the image to taste.
I am not trying to start a fight. If you are happy with your result then that is all that matter but no manufacturer will make what you are suggesting because it makes no sense.
 
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Motion blur is usually controlled by frame rate.
"Realistic" motion blur has nothing to do with resolution.

Shoot 4K at 24fps and stick a nice ND filter (8, 16, 32). In post you can soften the image to taste.
I am not trying to start a fight. If you are happy with your result then that is all that matter but no manufacturer will make what you are suggesting because it makes no sense.

Motion blur is controlled by shutter speed, not by frame rate. I pity your clients.
 
Motion blur is controlled by shutter speed, not by frame rate. I pity your clients.

You are correct, it was a "misprint" although frame rate has role in it.
But what is apparent is that you are a jerk. You can loose the stupid comments.


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