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Shutter Speed

john2k

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I've read and watched a few videos about how the Shutter speed should be set so the shutter is the inverse double of the frame rate. For example, for frame rate of 25fps at 4k, shutter should be 1/50s. But coming from using a DSLR in manual mode, anything that kind of speed will let in way too much light. On my DSLR on a sunny day unusually have to pump my shutter speed up to 1/4000th of a second so the pic doesn't get over exposed. Can anyone kindly clarify this? Thanks
 
Frame Rate 25, Shutter speed 1/50 ISO 100 thats the NORM...

Using ND or ND/P filters to the bottom number M.M in setting to close to Zero as possible.

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This is for video to induce a bit of motion blur. Too fast a shutter speed will make the video appear "jittery", especially when turning. ND filters are used to achieve the right shutter speed for the situation.

ND filters may also be used for stills if you want some motion blur (waves, waterfalls, car lights at night, etc.) but is more difficult to pull off.
 
I've read and watched a few videos about how the Shutter speed should be set so the shutter is the inverse double of the frame rate. For example, for frame rate of 25fps at 4k, shutter should be 1/50s. But coming from using a DSLR in manual mode, anything that kind of speed will let in way too much light. On my DSLR on a sunny day unusually have to pump my shutter speed up to 1/4000th of a second so the pic doesn't get over exposed. Can anyone kindly clarify this? Thanks
That's only to get a motion-blur effect that some here seem to think is a good thing.
But it's not at all essential.
If you're happy with the results shooting at higher shutter speeds, that's fine too.
 
Thanks for the replies. So I went out and did some testing in mid-day sunny conditions and with the ISO set at 100, I need to pump the shutter speed up to 1/4000. My frame rate is 24FPS. Now if i follow the 180 degree rule that means I need a shutter speed of 1/50 bringing the shutter speed that low literally meant a 100% white over-exposed picture. From what I understand if i'm not mistaken, I need an ND filter to block the light allowing essentially 1/50 shutter speed to be equivalat to what I would usually get with 1/4000 right? But the question is what ND number would that mean that I need? I have the offiial DJI ND filter pack of 3 which has ND4, ND8 and ND16. From what i've read, the ND16 is equivalant to a 4 stop filter. Question is, is this enough? The DJI spec says The ND16 filter allows 1/16 of incoming light through
 
Put on the 16 and see what it gets you. It should work but if very bright with reflective surfaces a 32 or 64 may be needed if you are moving or panning fast. Slower movements make the jittery effect less apparent.
 
Thanks for the replies. So I went out and did some testing in mid-day sunny conditions and with the ISO set at 100, I need to pump the shutter speed up to 1/4000. My frame rate is 24FPS. Now if i follow the 180 degree rule that means I need a shutter speed of 1/50 bringing the shutter speed that low literally meant a 100% white over-exposed picture. From what I understand if i'm not mistaken, I need an ND filter to block the light allowing essentially 1/50 shutter speed to be equivalat to what I would usually get with 1/4000 right? But the question is what ND number would that mean that I need? I have the offiial DJI ND filter pack of 3 which has ND4, ND8 and ND16. From what i've read, the ND16 is equivalant to a 4 stop filter. Question is, is this enough? The DJI spec says The ND16 filter allows 1/16 of incoming light through
The ND will take your shutter speed down from 1/4000 to 1/250s. Obviously you need an ND64 for those conditions (assuming your exposure was correct).
 
I'm thinking to order some higher ND filters a 32 and 64. I'm confused between PL and not PL ones. I read that PL is to reduce glare but apparently you have to orient it correctly or something and it can effect pano photos etc. Can anyone advise?
 
You do have to orient the lenses correctly. The best way to achieve that is prior to flight with the camera view on, face the drone in the direction that you intend filming from and rotate the filter until you get the desired affect. Polarizing lenses work in relationship to the angle of the sun, so once you change the angle (yaw) you've changed the polarizer. The reason it affects pano photos is that pano uses yaw to create the image.
ND filters on drones are for achieving the desired motion blur by reducing the light that enters the lens thereby allowing reduced shutter speed. For that purpose, ND filters on drones are very useful.
However, PLs on drones have limited benefit. For video they are not ideal because the filming angle is usually changing. For still photography where there is glare, they may be of some use. There is an informative video here on youtube which I found very explanatory.
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You do have to orient the lenses correctly. The best way to achieve that is prior to flight with the camera view on, face the drone in the direction that you intend filming from and rotate the filter until you get the desired affect. Polarizing lenses work in relationship to the angle of the sun, so once you change the angle (yaw) you've changed the polarizer. The reason it affects pano photos is that pano uses yaw to create the image.
ND filters on drones are for achieving the desired motion blur by reducing the light that enters the lens thereby allowing reduced shutter speed. For that purpose, ND filters on drones are very useful.
However, PLs on drones have limited benefit. For video they are not ideal because the filming angle is usually changing. For still photography where there is glare, they may be of some use. There is an informative video here on youtube which I found very explanatory.

Oh, so have I made a mistake buying PL ND filters? What happens if the polariser isn't oriented properly?
 
Oh, so have I made a mistake buying PL ND filters? What happens if the polariser isn't oriented properly?
Look at a (sunlit) scene through one and rotate the filter to get an idea.
 
So polarising ND filters will not work for anything that involves stiching photos, so a pano photo or a asteroid quickshot because the asteroid quickshot stiches clips together right? So lets say it's not a sunny day but plenty of natural light requring a ND8 or 16, will using a PL make the shots worse?
 
I think you may be over thinking this. Put a PL filter on. Do an asteroid video and see what it looks like. Whether you like it or not. I primarily use non pl filters and then when I have a specific scene that could be enhanced with pl I swap out.

This is the 6 pack filter kit I use. FILTERS
 
So polarising ND filters will not work for anything that involves stiching photos, so a pano photo or a asteroid quickshot because the asteroid quickshot stiches clips together right? So lets say it's not a sunny day but plenty of natural light requring a ND8 or 16, will using a PL make the shots worse?
ND & PL filters predate digital photography and drones by a long way. Plenty of resources for you to get an appreciation of how they function. As has been explained by several others a PL predominantly excludes reflected light with the effect changing depending on the orientation to the light source. Where the light source is the sun you will see that the deepness of the blue in the sky changes dramatically as you rotate the camera. It should be obvious then that a pano may, and usually does, end up with a marked change in sky brightness and saturation across the frame. This usually looks quite unnatural.
 
I really wouldn't get too hung up on all this, the drone will expose correctly if you just set it to auto.
In theory a very fast shutter speed can look a bit odd but it depends on your subject.
If you are sedately cruising along looking at landscape or buildings 99% of viewers won't notice any issue.
Also best conditions for photo and video are early and late in the day when you barely need NDs.

If you have an ND on and light levels change e.g. cloud comes over it's going to throw it out anyway.
The annoying thing is also there if you want to pause and take photos - forced slow shutter on moving aerial platform is not a recipe for a sharp photo.
 
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I live in the desert. I use a 16 ND filter but it's really not quite enough except late in the day. The only reason I use it is to get smoother video of Skate boarders from a couple of hundred feet away. I shoot at a frame rate of 60 and 120th of a second shutter. I'm really not sure how much improvement I'm getting. I would say for most video they are really not needed. I don't mind the exposure changing during a shot like it does on auto. I'm pretty sure that I would get much better still shots with a faster shutter speed. Exactly what 4wd just wrote. When you are trying to get one chance only shots like on a vacation the photo shots are important! and you sure can't get a good sharp frame taken from a video.
 
How do you get the clouds in the shot, I'm using a ND8 which exposes most of the area correctly but in trying to get the balance of sky and land seems impossible as the skies are always coming out overexposed
 
How do you get the clouds in the shot, I'm using a ND8 which exposes most of the area correctly but in trying to get the balance of sky and land seems impossible as the skies are always coming out overexposed
If you have a dark foreground and a bright sky, it might be just too much contrast between the shadows and highlights for the camera to be able to render the scene properly.
Your ND filter affects the whole scene equally, it darkens the sky and the foreground together so it won't make any difference.
Try looking for scenes without such a big difference between the light and dark.
One way can be to turn the drone so the sun is behind and lighting your scene for you.
 
When using the 180degree rule and setting the shutter speed double the frame rate, does the drone stick movements and gimbal movement not need to be matched? For example if I have 1/50 shutter speed and turn the drone too fast, will that not be too blurry?
 

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