SIGNAL BOOSTER For M2Pro

[Mr Shamrok]

How far away can you still see your craft in a city and what are you flying over to get to that distance?

I don’t fly over cities, as this can endanger other people, but if you want to fly over the city or outside the city, then it all depends on the terrain (on a hill or in a lowland) it also depends on the height at which you fly ( the lower the chance of signal loss is greater if you are not at an elevation). My flights were more than 9km without signal loss on the Mavic 2, and I also flew on the Mavic Air 5km but it was in FCC mode.

 

[parkgt]

I don’t fly over cities, as this can endanger other people, but if you want to fly over the city or outside the city, then it all depends on the terrain (on a hill or in a lowland) it also depends on the height at which you fly ( the lower the chance of signal loss is greater if you are not at an elevation). My flights were more than 9km without signal loss on the Mavic 2, and I also flew on the Mavic Air 5km but it was in FCC mode.

Surprised you could make a 18K round trip on a battery.

 

[Mr Shamrok]

Surprised you could make a 18K round trip on a battery.

Yes, it is definitely possible given the weather conditions, and I also studied the logs of battery consumption in different flight modes, thereby determining the best flight technique, taking into account all the factors, I was able to cover a long distance and return safely to the take-off point.

 

[MavicDelight]

Turn the remote control over, and you can see the sticker on the back side, there is this marking to the left above. The whole thing is the transmitter that is directly installed in the remote control, and in 1B it is much weaker. The situation with the Mavic Mini is absolutely identical, only in Mavic Mini also has a weak signal transmitter in the drone itself, they have different boards for FCC and CE. With Mavic 2, the situation is much simpler, the difference is in the remotes. Therefore, there is no point in redoing with the Ocusinc 2.0 system since it sends a signal for 12 km and more, it is already 100% verified, but only if your remote control 1A. Good luck, and I hope that you are lucky ... with the remote control.

I can't see any reference - think it's in chinese

 

[Mr Shamrok]

I can't see any reference - think it's in chinese
View attachment 95568

But this is a photo of the back of the DJI Smart Controller, and not the usual Mavic2 remote control. And I'm talking about a conventional remote control. And on this remote control you will not have such marking.

 

[MavicDelight]

But this is a photo of the back of the DJI Smart Controller, and not the usual Mavic2 remote control. And I'm talking about a conventional remote control. And on this remote control you will not have such marking.

Thank you for your response ?

 

[Gilbertlopez1]

Absolutely, but if you have a remote control labeled 1B, then the signal is much weaker. Many people do not pay attention to this, but I know many pilots who have 1B remote control and they can fly only at 2.5km maximum. But if you have a remote control with with the 1A mark, it makes no sense to redo anything. I have a 1A remote control and I installed Signal-Boost from the NLD and my signal increased by 30% minimum. Therefore, I recommend everyone to pay attention to the marking of their remote control. One question; why DJI does not warns before buying?

I’m guessing the Smart Controllers dont have this signage, I have 2 Smart Controllers for my M2P, and M2Z, neither controller had any such markings...

 

[lannes]

I’m guessing the Smart Controllers dont have this signage, I have 2 Smart Controllers for my M2P, and M2Z, neither controller had any such markings...

There is only one version of the Smart Controller that we know of.

 

[Bob001]

I took a look at the reflective signal boosters on Amazon and they looked real Mickey Mouse - simple reflective parabolic sheets that sit behind the antenna elements. This looks good in print but even if it worked, it makes the beam very directional and pointing the signal at your drone would become problematic. If the controller is off target slightly, you could even lose the signal when its weak. I skipped that one and decided to run without. I've had good results without any booster as reported previously in this thread.

 

[Mr Shamrok]

I have an M2P and factory controller, where is the mark that you mentioned?

Watching ✌

have I really earned such an attitude towards myself (Watch)? I just decided to tell people and share my experience.

 

[Mr Shamrok]

Is the 1A OR 1B in the serial number?

have I really earned such an attitude towards myself (Watch)? I just decided to tell people and share my experience.

 

[Mr Shamrok]

I’m guessing the Smart Controllers dont have this signage, I have 2 Smart Controllers for my M2P, and M2Z, neither controller had any such markings...

No, this is not related to Smart remotes.

 

[pelagic_one]

RC1A and RC1B:

newbie question about mavic 2 pro controllers

so i'm brand-new here. i do drone photography/videos for real estate agents. i've been using a P3S for the past 2 years. now i'm seriously considering a mavic 2 pro, primarily for the camera. i'm also seriously considering the epson bt-300 but as far as i can tell they don't work with the B...

mavicpilots.com

I did not realize that the RC1A offers longer distance than the RC1B. So for those of us with both versions, assuming at the edge of VLOS...should flying with the RC1A offer a higher quality video signal to the mobile device than with the RC1B?

 

[lannes]

RC1A and RC1B:

newbie question about mavic 2 pro controllers

so i'm brand-new here. i do drone photography/videos for real estate agents. i've been using a P3S for the past 2 years. now i'm seriously considering a mavic 2 pro, primarily for the camera. i'm also seriously considering the epson bt-300 but as far as i can tell they don't work with the B...

mavicpilots.com

I did not realize that the RC1A offers longer distance than the RC1B. So for those of us with both versions, assuming at the edge of VLOS...should flying with the RC1A offer a higher quality video signal to the mobile device than with the RC1B?

If your flying VLOS you won't notice the transmission power differences on the video signal

 

[Black Corsair]

So for those of us that Have the 1B controller, What to do?

 

[pelagic_one]

You’re fine with the RC1B controller. I’ve flown with RC1A and RC1B, and have seen no difference, even when flying at the very edge of VLOS. I use the RC1B because the RC1A is a hand-me-down from a friend, and doesn’t hold a charge as well anymore. I’m hanging onto it in case a Moverio BT-300 ever lands on my doorstep.

I’m still new to this hobby though, so I believe this guy:

I would say with a M2P it's a waste of time, Ocusync 2.0 is already as good as it gets

 

[Photoman482]

Absolutely, but if you have a remote control labeled 1B, then the signal is much weaker. Many people do not pay attention to this, but I know many pilots who have 1B remote control and they can fly only at 2.5km maximum. But if you have a remote control with with the 1A mark, it makes no sense to redo anything. I have a 1A remote control and I installed Signal-Boost from the NLD and my signal increased by 30% minimum. Therefore, I recommend everyone to pay attention to the marking of their remote control. One question; why DJI does not warns before buying?

How do we know if it’s 1a or b? Where is this info on the controller?

 

[lannes]

How do we know if it’s 1a or b? Where is this info on the controller?

On the back, see post 19

 

[Jfvdenning]

If you aren't in the USA I would recommend hacking to get FCC mode, it really makes a massive different in range.

 

[John Locke]

I took a look at the reflective signal boosters on Amazon and they looked real Mickey Mouse - simple reflective parabolic sheets that sit behind the antenna elements. This looks good in print but even if it worked, it makes the beam very directional and pointing the signal at your drone would become problematic. If the controller is off target slightly, you could even lose the signal when its weak. I skipped that one and decided to run without. I've had good results without any booster as reported previously in this thread.

You're guessing, and you're mistaken. Parabolic dishes do work.

This dish can extend range 30 to 40%, and help mitigate rouge signal interference from sources located behind you. The increased signal integrity can easily be proven by flying out 3 or 4 miles without the reflector, or until you get 2 or 3 bars strength. Let the craft hover and install the reflector. You'll see an increase in bars. The radar screen make is possible for a 13yr old to easily aim the dish at the craft, very simply. Being off 20 degrees doesn't affect efficiency, it's not sensitive for exact direction pointing. These reflectors are one of the best $10 accessory values to get 5+ miles range, limited only by battery life. With M2 craft no amplifiers are necessary. Every time I plan to fly a long mission, I simply install the reflector. But of course, officially I never fly BVLOS. ;-)