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Skyreat Mavic 2 Pro ND and ND-PL Filter Review

eukaryote

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Introduction and Theory – Why we need neutral density filters, even with the Mavic 2 Pro


The Mavic 2 Pro, with its ‘1 inch’ Sony sourced sensor is a marvel to behold, mainly due to the fact that DJI have managed to fit it into such a compact body. At just over 900g, the Mavic 2 Pro goes head to head with its much bigger and heavier cousin, the Phantom 4 Pro.
Like the Phantom 4 Pro, the Mavic 2 Pro is gifted with a variable aperture of f2.8-f11, allowing for much more creative freedom when controlling shutter speeds for video capture; depth of field much less so, as at the distances the drone is usually flying at, the depth of field will usually cover the entire region of interest.

The aim has always been the same: shutter speed should ideally be 2 x frame rate, to allow for that ‘cinematic feel’ and reduction in choppiness in the video sequence often noticed when shutter rates are much higher than frame speed.
However, it’s becoming more apparent that beyond F5.6 the Mavic2 Pro lens starts to be affected by diffraction, and by f11 this becomes much more prominent, leading to significant loss of resolution. So effectively, we have 2 stops (f2.8 to f4, to f5.6) of ‘neutral density’ filters built into the M2P. This becomes an issue on much sunnier days, when shutter speeds can climb into the 1/1000+ range. Even with aperture at f5.6, we may be faced with a shutter speed of 1/500 or greater. This is where neutral density filters come into play.

Neutral density filters restrict the amount of light that can enter and contact the sensor. Depending on the quality of the ND filter, resolution loss is minimal, but with the much greater benefit of diffraction losses being negligible vs increasing the aperture.
Thus to get 1/500 down to 1/60 for a 30fps, and with every stop of ND filtration offering half light transmittance, we need 3 stops reduction i.e. 1/500 - > 1/250 - > 1/125 -> ~1/60.
ND filters nomenclature reflects the stops of light reduced i.e. ND 4 – ¼ light, ND8 – 1/8 light etc so in the above example we need a ND8 filter.

To throw the spanner in the works, we can add polarisation to the mix as well. This allows for not only reduction of light entry to the sensor, but in a very simplified explanation, filters light waves so that only those coming from a certain direction are allowed entry to the sensor. This means things such as reflections are significantly reduced. Most pertinent example of this is looking through water; on a sunny day, glare would reduce your ability to see into the depths of water. With a polarising filter, this glare is significantly reduced. The other advantage of the polarising filter is it increases contrast because of the filtration of glare.


Product:

Disclosure: I was sent a free sample of filters by Skyreat. However, I was not paid for this review. All comments and opinions in this review are mine alone, with no undue influence by the manufacturer.

Skyreat produce a multitude of accessories for DJI line of drones, and have just released their series of Mavic 2 Pro filters. These range from ND4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 1000 and ND4-pl, ND8-pl, ND16-pl
Today we will be reviewing the ND 4, 8, 16, 4pl, 8pl, 16pl and 1000


Manufacturer specifications:

Skyreat for this product is using Japan Asahi Glass (AGC), optical glass that is right up there with Schott, a brand used by the likes of B+W for DSLR filters.

The glass is coated on both sides with between 18-24 layers applied to each side. This leads to a reflection rate of less than 2.5% in the visible spectrum. In conjunction, there is a waterproofing layer applied to the side of the filter glass facing the environment, increasing the chance of water droplets coalescing and sliding away from the filter when weather is less than average, rather than form a smattering on the glass, and hence reducing diffraction issues as light travels through the droplets. That’s the theory anyway!
Polarisation is via a film, and is linear in nature, rather than circular. We shall see if this throws off the metering system of the Mavic 2 Pro.


Note: It is a relief to see that both sides of the glass are coated, as this reduces internal reflections between the filter and the glass on the sensor. Internal reflections lead to ghosting, significantly reducing the quality of ones images, and something that cannot be removed in post-production editing.


Packaging: Simple plastic case. Pity that the ND1000 wasn't well positioned in the case, but that could be due to transport. However, if it were, i'd have expected the other 6 to be displaced as well, so I am going to be putting this down to poor quality control in the packaging department.






Quality:
The filters are made of a high quality aluminium that has been adonised with red. Each filter has the logo on top, and the type of filter on the bottom. Note that for some reason, the ND4-PL filter has the sides of the filter riveted for better handling, yet this is not present on the other filters. The glass has no scratches, and as seen in the photos, on both sides are multi coated. It was fairly difficult to get the green coating to show up on the photos i.e. the coating is doing its job!
Most of the filters have a snug fit onto the camera body like the stock UV filter, however I did find one of the filters slightly loose. It was still stuck in position, but there was some play, which although does not affect image quality, is just something to note. However, for something this cheap, we are already miles ahead of where we should be.









Side by side the the stock UV filter, they seem like an almost perfect match....



But then notice the side of the ND filter, how it bulges out beyond the camera enclosure



Because of this, it is very difficult to insert the camera/gimbal cover without jiggling the gimbal around, something that can be a little unnerving initially, but it does fit if you are wondering.


Testing

On a sunny day, I decided to shoot a relatively benign background with lots of textures to be able to discern any differences in detail/resolution between the stock UV filter and Skyreat filters.
The camera was put into manual mode, full resolution, with colour temperature set at 5500K and shot in RAW. Images were analysed in Lightroom, with no corrections applied.

In summary:
- The camera is sharp!
- No issues with ND filters re: gimbal calibration
- The filters have a slight green cast to them - all ND filters will have colour cast, but something this subtle will not be of any concern
- Detail preservation is excellent on the Skyreat filters, even the ND1000, with only the slightest of detail degradation on pixel peeping at the monitor for some time. Again, this can be explained by autofocus differences between the images
- ND-PL does not affect auto-focus/exposure done by the M2P
- The polarising filter set is very good, compared to the ND filters alone, contrast is enhanced, reflections decreased while preserving excellent detail
-- However, I would also rather a CPL filter with no ND components for us photographers who value higher shutter speeds
- Note: The focus was a little off on the ND1000 filter, hence the slight detail artifacts. However, compared to the other NDs, the colour cast was the same

Links to original files in JPEG for ease
Dropbox - Skyreat - Simplify your life


Cons:

- I would have really appreciated an ND-PL where the lens was rotatable. On testing, further polarisation could be obtained if it had been rotated.
- One filter that was slightly lax on the camera - however, did not affect the operation of the camera/image quality
- Quality control for the ND1000 box - but this is being nitpicky now
- Gimbal cover difficult to place onto camera and gimbal assembly with filter attached - But i have been advised Skyreat have a fix in the process, and will replace with the revised filter if the customer asks.


Conclusion
This is a great filter set, and for the price, is undeniable value for money. Quality is excellent, using high end components to make what is a very compelling buy for videographers and photographers who need the polarising filter
If they could also release a CPL filter with no ND component, this would be something of great value!
 
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@Skyreat
When the newest version of ND filters is released in the USA I would appreciate knowing. I live in Arizona where we have bright sunshine, little to no clouds and minimal water (Colorado River ).
Based on two pictures :) can you suggest which filters might be helpful. I do travel (have drone will travel) a little. Both are in Auto with no filters.

MPP - desert environment (90% of my flying)
MPP .JPG

M2P
M2P Auto .JPG

Edit: Added pictures
 
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@Skyreat
When the newest version of ND filters is released in the USA I would appreciate knowing. I live in Arizona where we have bright sunshine, little to no clouds and minimal water (Colorado River ).
Based on two pictures :) can you suggest which filters might be helpful. I do travel (have drone will travel) a little. Both are in Auto with no filters.

MPP - desert environment (90% of my flying)
View attachment 48053

M2P
View attachment 48054

Edit: Added pictures

If you can tell us the exposure data (ISO, Aperture, Shutter) for each photo it's super easy to figure out what filter(s) you might need assuming you want 1 / 2X FPS for a shutter
 
Both pictures were in Auto. M2P picture was 100% auto, MPP picture I adjusted the brightness to a midpoint with the finger wheel. I am a duffer to make a golfing description of my photo capabilities.
 
I am no expert, but I have been reading and depending on how many filters you plan to own and if you are new to owning ND filters, then I can almost guarantee you that you will have to get one or both of these numbers; ND8 and ND16. I believe you must own one or both of those atleast.
 
I use a Polarizing filter as I deem necessary on my SLR.
On the M2P I would probably have a 4 - 32 range of ND filters available and when the adjustable NDPL or PL filters are available have to see what is available.

I am not a photographer, I don't have the eye but I want to take the best pictures I am capable of. I have learned a LOT from this forum,
Thanks
 
Both pictures were in Auto. M2P picture was 100% auto, MPP picture I adjusted the brightness to a midpoint with the finger wheel. I am a duffer to make a golfing description of my photo capabilities.

Yes I understand they were auto, but what settings did the drone use? It will be in the Exif data or on your screen while you took them. You need to know the ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture (F number). With that I can easily tell you what ND filter would be required for 1 / 2X FPS shutter video at base ISO. I'd look myself but I don't have the Exif reader Chrome plug-in anymore.

As a very rough guess based solely on you being in a bright area, you will probably want ND16 and ND32 at a minimum, maybe ND8 too if you don't always fly under mid-day sun. But we can calculate it exactly if you give us the exif data.
 
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Is this what you are referring to, if not if you could you let me know where to find the data.

MPP details
View attachment 48056

M2P details
View attachment 48057

Nice pictures. Did you use a ND filter for the seonc pic? which ND filter? Do you have the PolarPro ND filters?

I see your location is Bullhead City. I have been through there twice. Both times I was driving my suv on Route 66. I will always remember Bullhead Cit and Laughin. I had a flat and my suv has 22s. I could not find a 22 tire in the whole city. So, I used my spare and got a new 22inch tire in Vegas.

Also, that night I stayed in a casino in Laughin. The cheapest and best hotel room I have ever had for less than $50 a night. I could not believe it. The room and bed was as comfortable as Any hotel I have ever paid $150 plus for a night anywhere else. The hotel is right there across the bridge which is the state boundary between Arizona and Nevada. I am sure one can take some great drone footage in just that area and above the water that is just right there behind those hotels. Would be epic at sunset or sunrise. Do you have such pics by those hotels?
 
This thread is good. It is a good review. I see Skyreat is trying to get out there. They need not be selfish and do more than send to you.

A few days ago I was trying to research on youtube to read more about PolarPros as I may buy their filters. Holy Cow! It seems PolarPro went all out and sent FREE ND and ND/Pl filters to many youtubers to review for them. i mean, there are so many videos I said to myself that this is a good thing for their Research and Development team. That makes me have confidence in their product. More reaosn why i may buy from them.

And now my new lineup that I may buy is their custom 4 pack for $99.99 and right now my most possible choices would be ND8, ND8/PL( I really believe this combo filter will be a good thing to have), ND16 and ND32. I have noticed that without a doubt, if you are new to ND filters like me, then if you should have 1 filter only, then I believe the most popular one will be a ND8 or ND16. Or having both even.

I am no expert, I just like to take a ton of pictures and this time I want my personal pictures to look really good. So, I read, research and try to make a decision for me.
 
Is this what you are referring to, if not if you could you let me know where to find the data.

MPP details
View attachment 48056

M2P details
View attachment 48057


That's perfect.

So your first image was F2.2, 1/800, ISO 200 (I have no idea why the drone picked ISO 200 here - completely unnecessary)

Second image was F5.6, 1/400, ISO 100

So assuming this was video, in the first scenario you would want to drop that ISO to 100 and use a ND8 for a 3-stop reduction to get as close as possible to as 1/60 shutter at F2.2 and ISO 100.

In the second scenario if you wanted to keep F5.6 you would also need a 3 stop reduction, so ND8 - however that scene was much brighter. If you wanted to shoot the same scene at F2.2 you would need about a 5 stop reduction, so ND32 would get you closest and then just stop down a tiny bit to F2.8 if needed.

You have some wiggle room because of the variable aperture on the MP, but you want to keep ISO at 100 and I assume you want 1 / 2X FPS as your shutter speed as per the norm. You also don't want to use too small of an aperture (high F number) as it will start to degrade the image pretty fast.

It's better to underestimate the ND filter a little bit and stop the aperture down a little rather than use too dark of an ND filter and be forced to raise the ISO to keep the shutter speed at 1 / 2X FPS.

If I were you I'd probably start with a ND8 and ND16 and go from there. There is only one stop difference between ND16 and ND32, which is the same as stopping the lens down one stop (eg. from F2.2 to F3.2 or F2.8 to F4), so given the flexibility afforded to you by the MP's variable aperture, you probably don't need a bunch of filters if that is the conditions you normally shoot under.
 
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Did you use a ND filter for the seonc pic? which ND filter? Do you have the PolarPro ND filters?

MPP had a UV filter (lens protection) only
M2P had the UV filter it came with, I will not (never say never) remove it to fly.

We have lived here for about 6 years, two miles out into the desert there is NO cell service. NOT for the faint of heart. 4 hours from San Diego, LA, Phoenix and Mexico. Two hours from Sin City (Las Vegas). There is distance flying if that is what you want, plenty of hills and valley's to explore and so many dirt roads (GOOD 4-wheel drive, not your 7-Eleven commuter jeep.

International :cool: airport and I am a NFZ and about 100' from the Red zone. Too many military training flights to go up to 400' at night (I use strobes on all 4 corners). They fly lower that that around here. IMHO, just too much risk. We like the area and yes the Casino's do have inexpensive rooms and great meals. Don't worry they make up the inexpensive rooms in other ways:oops:

If you are ever back through give me a shout in advance and we can see what a very very small percentage of people ever see.
 
you probably don't need a bunch of filters if that is the conditions you normally shoot under.

I appreciate your input and guidance. I would rather have an extra filter than want it and not have it. I'm not made of money but given the cost of the M2P, it is a pimple. . .
When the L2 @Skyreat filters come out I expect to get a set. I will put it up about a hundred feet and start experimenting to get some baseline.
Where in Canada, PM if appropriate.
 
I appreciate your input and guidance. I would rather have an extra filter than want it and not have it. I'm not made of money but given the cost of the M2P, it is a pimple. . .
When the L2 @Skyreat filters come out I expect to get a set. I will put it up about a hundred feet and start experimenting to get some baseline.
Where in Canada, PM if appropriate.

Happy to help.

And yes I agree, filters are dirt cheap relative to the cost of the drone. Same for memory cards. The variable aperture on the MP though gives you a fair bit of leeway, and can eliminate the need of a ND filter or two that you might otherwise need on a fixed aperture drone like the Mavic Air.

I'm in Calgary, Alberta. I have a lot fewer viable flying months than you unless I go on vacation :D I see you're from Arizona - my FIL has a place in Phoenix, and when I was there 2 February's ago, it was 25 C / 77 F and your waterparks weren't even open yet haha.
 
Happy to help.

And yes I agree, filters are dirt cheap relative to the cost of the drone. Same for memory cards. The variable aperture on the MP though gives you a fair bit of leeway, and can eliminate the need of a ND filter or two that you might otherwise need on a fixed aperture drone like the Mavic Air.

I'm in Calgary, Alberta. I have a lot fewer viable flying months than you unless I go on vacation :D I see you're from Arizona - my FIL has a place in Phoenix, and when I was there 2 February's ago, it was 25 C / 77 F and your waterparks weren't even open yet haha.

You are veyr knowledgeable and very helpful. I think that is great.

I see you mention you are from Calgary, Canada. i was there last year for the most epic road trip of my life. It was just amazing and my first time to drive to Calgary. I wish I had my drone back then. Here is my road trip blog for you to just see some pics. If I had known you on this forum before then, I would have asked for some recommendations on what to do while out there. I had my first poutine and I was just wowed by all the parks out there. Just look at my blog and see my adventure. I also attended the Calgary Stampede and it was a blast.

My USA/Canada epic road trip...

You have been so helpful and now I am pretty much confident about what filters I may get. I think I will go with PolarPro. I know for sure I want ND8, ND8/PL, ND16. Now I am wondering between these 2; ND4 or ND32. I am thinking ND32 can be replaced by N16 on my applications, so I should go with ND4 as I may use that more than I may use ND32 since ND32 is very dark. Please, let me know what you think about my selection before I pull the trigger on my combo that I am looking at.
 
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You are veyr knowledgeable and very helpful. I think that is great.

I see you mention you are from Calgary, Canada. i was there last year for the most epic road trip of my life. It was just amazing and my first time to drive to Calgary. I wish I had my drone back then. Here is my road trip blog for you to just see some pics. If I had known you on this forum before then, I would have asked for some recommendations on what to do while out there. I had my first poutine and I was just wowed by all the parks out there. Just look at my blog and see my adventure. I also attended the Calgary Stampede and it was a blast.

My USA/Canada epic road trip...

You have been so helpful and now I am pretty much confident about what filters I may get. I think I will go with PolarPro. I know for sure I want ND8, ND8/PL, ND16. Now I am wondering between these 2; ND4 or ND32. I am thinking ND32 can be replaced by N16 on my applications, so I should go with ND4 as I may use that more than I may use ND32 since ND32 is very dark. Please, let me know what you think about my selection before I pull the trigger on my combo that I am looking at.

Happy to help and I am glad you are getting some value from it. I come from a photography background that conveniently translates into the drone world for the most part.

Calgary is nothing special outside of the 1.5 weeks of Stampede (though I live here so I am sure I am less impressed by it than a visitor haha), but it looks like you hit all the nearby highlights (Banff, Canmore, Jasper, etc.) and got some great pictures - those places never get old. Unfortunately drones are illegal in all the National Parks - it would make for some phenomenal footage! Easy to find good food here though and it seems like there is a new craft brewery popping up every other week.

I don't know exactly what conditions you shoot in but generally speaking for ISO 100, 1/60 shutter and F2.8ish:

ND4 - Dawn/Dusk
ND8 - Overcast/Cloudy
ND16 - Sunny
ND32 - Very Sunny / tropical sun
ND64 - Sunny with snow, white sand, etc.

Now, obviously you can change the aperture on the MP2 so in my opinion you don't need nearly that many.

Generally speaking, if you do use a polarizer, you will probably use it when it is brighter out, so it may make more sense to get a ND16PL than ND8PL, but since the MP2 has a variable aperture, it's far less of an issue because you can easily get a way with a ND8 and then stop down once to F4 and it's the same as if you had a ND16PL and once more to F5.6 it's the same as a ND32PL. I would get either the ND8 or ND16 in PL, and just select aperture accordingly.

What you could do is get a ND8 and ND32, that way you also effectively have ND16 and ND64 (respectively) simply by stopping down once from F2.8 to F4. You could almost get away with one ND filter depending where you most often fly - but as mentioned, the cost is so minimal it isn't a big deal.

Looking at it another way, all else equal, a proper exposure with a ND16 at F4, you can drop to a ND8 equivalent by using F2.8 and a ND32 equivalent by using F5.6, though beyond F4 the image quality beings to slowly degrade if you're picky. It's much easier to tell people what to buy with fixed aperture drones :D For the most part you can effectively turn any one ND filter into three with minor aperture changes without getting too far into the diffraction zone.
 
The only problem with removing that factory "Hasselblad" filter,...you are removing the biggest "Hasselblad" part of the camera. With that lens filter gone, it's just a regular Sony sensor camera now.

CT ;-(
 
The only problem with removing that factory "Hasselblad" filter,...you are removing the biggest "Hasselblad" part of the camera. With that lens filter gone, it's just a regular Sony sensor camera now.

CT ;-(

As funny as it is, this is very true
 
The only problem with removing that factory "Hasselblad" filter,...you are removing the biggest "Hasselblad" part of the camera. With that lens filter gone, it's just a regular Sony sensor camera now.

CT ;-(
Take the filter kit to the jewelers and get them to engrave "Hasselblad" on the filter bodies.

Some would gleefully argue this is about as much input Hasselblad had with the M2P camera anyway :p
 

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