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Undoubtedly Oversaturated M3 Classic Images

mavicbopper

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I been searching for a useful discussion related to oversaturated Mavic 3 Classic Images. I cannot find one.

To start, I am a photographer, first, who added a Mavic2 Pro to my arsenals of 6 Nikons. I fully understand color space, raw imagery, and jpg algorithms. I always shoot in jpg/raw (dng), for the obvious reasons. The Mavic 3 Classic equipped with the Hasselblad camera is the ONLY camera I have ever had with excruciatingly oversaturated jpgs. In all Nikons, there is a menu selection that allows for tweaking what the jpg algorithm produces when it processes, in camera, the raw capture. Yes, all cameras capture a raw file that is processed to produced the jpg. It's when one specifies RAW & JPG that the camera stores the unprocessed raw file - for the photographer to use in post processing.

There is no question, that the Mavic 3 Classic outputs an oversaturated jpg. The Mavic 2 Pro that I have had for 3 years does not. This is not a matter of faulty white balance select, exposure settings, etc. as other forums inputters "drone" on about. I realize that people are looking at their images on a variety of devices, from phones, to tablets, to Imacs, to PCs, the latter two, may or may not be calibrated. So there can be some variations of what is brought to the screen. I also realize that various viewer/processing packages, from pro grade to those that come packed with the device, can alter the appearance on the screen because they don't emulate the color space associated with the image file.

All these variables, notwithstanding, the Mavic 3 Classic images are oversaturated and there appears, I least I can't find it, to be no way to tweak the jpg setting to produce less saturation.

Is there an agreement out there, based on comparative experience, that the Mavic 3 Classic is producing OVERSATURATED jpg images? If so, has anybody found a fix short of having to deal with it in post processing, which because it is a jpg, is time consuming and less than ideal because the jpg algorithm tossed 80% of the data from the RAW.

P.S. Videos produced in the NORMAL mode don't produce similar oversaturation. The vids are terrific!
 
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If you shoot in Auto mode the JPG will (in many situations) automatically be a multi-frame HDR exposure. This will of course make the JPG look very different from the RAW file, and in many cases have much larger dynamic range than the RAW.
But I also question why you shoot jpgs - and thereby lose 80% of the data from the raw?
 
Is there an agreement out there, based on comparative experience, that the Mavic 3 Classic is producing OVERSATURATED jpg images?
I haven't noticed this with the original Mavic 3.
Can you post an original, full-size example?
You may have to upload to dropbox or similar and post a link.

What exposure setting method are you using?
As mentioned in post #3, if you use auto, recent DJI cameras give a composite HDR image, rather than a normal single shot jpg
 
I been searching for a useful discussion related to oversaturated Mavic 3 Classic Images. I cannot find one.

To start, I am a photographer, first, who added a Mavic2 Pro to my arsenals of 6 Nikons. I fully understand color space, raw imagery, and jpg algorithms. I always shoot in jpg/raw (dng), for the obvious reasons. The Mavic 3 Classic equipped with the Hasselblad camera is the ONLY camera I have ever had with excruciatingly oversaturated jpgs. In all Nikons, there is a menu selection that allows for tweaking what the jpg algorithm produces when it processes, in camera, the raw capture. Yes, all cameras capture a raw file that is processed to produced the jpg. It's when one specifies RAW & JPG that the camera stores the unprocessed raw file - for the photographer to use in post processing.

There is no question, that the Mavic 3 Classic outputs an oversaturated jpg. The Mavic 2 Pro that I have had for 3 years does not. This is not a matter of faulty white balance select, exposure settings, etc. as other forums inputters "drone" on about. I realize that people are looking at their images on a variety of devices, from phones, to tablets, to Imacs, to PCs, the latter two, may or may not be calibrated. So there can be some variations of what is brought to the screen. I also realize that various viewer/processing packages, from pro grade to those that come packed with the device, can alter the appearance on the screen because they don't emulate the color space associated with the image file.

All these variables, notwithstanding, the Mavic 3 Classic images are oversaturated and there appears, I least I can't find it, to be no way to tweak the jpg setting to produce less saturation.

Is there an agreement out there, based on comparative experience, that the Mavic 3 Classic is producing OVERSATURATED jpg images? If so, has anybody found a fix short of having to deal with it in post processing, which because it is a jpg, is time consuming and less than ideal because the jpg algorithm tossed 80% of the data from the RAW.

P.S. Videos produced in the NORMAL mode don't produce similar oversaturation. The vids are terrific!
Can you give us a few examples of that native excruciatingly oversaturated jpg you're speaking to? I personally don't need jpg's from the M3, I much prefer first processing Raw then save to jpg.
 
I been searching for a useful discussion related to oversaturated Mavic 3 Classic Images. I cannot find one.

To start, I am a photographer, first, who added a Mavic2 Pro to my arsenals of 6 Nikons. I fully understand color space, raw imagery, and jpg algorithms. I always shoot in jpg/raw (dng), for the obvious reasons. The Mavic 3 Classic equipped with the Hasselblad camera is the ONLY camera I have ever had with excruciatingly oversaturated jpgs. In all Nikons, there is a menu selection that allows for tweaking what the jpg algorithm produces when it processes, in camera, the raw capture. Yes, all cameras capture a raw file that is processed to produced the jpg. It's when one specifies RAW & JPG that the camera stores the unprocessed raw file - for the photographer to use in post processing.

There is no question, that the Mavic 3 Classic outputs an oversaturated jpg. The Mavic 2 Pro that I have had for 3 years does not. This is not a matter of faulty white balance select, exposure settings, etc. as other forums inputters "drone" on about. I realize that people are looking at their images on a variety of devices, from phones, to tablets, to Imacs, to PCs, the latter two, may or may not be calibrated. So there can be some variations of what is brought to the screen. I also realize that various viewer/processing packages, from pro grade to those that come packed with the device, can alter the appearance on the screen because they don't emulate the color space associated with the image file.

All these variables, notwithstanding, the Mavic 3 Classic images are oversaturated and there appears, I least I can't find it, to be no way to tweak the jpg setting to produce less saturation.

Is there an agreement out there, based on comparative experience, that the Mavic 3 Classic is producing OVERSATURATED jpg images? If so, has anybody found a fix short of having to deal with it in post processing, which because it is a jpg, is time consuming and less than ideal because the jpg algorithm tossed 80% of the data from the RAW.

P.S. Videos produced in the NORMAL mode don't produce similar oversaturation. The vids are terrific!
Because, some of my stuff is simply casual and not composed for sale. In these instances I would use the jpg, as is, to send to friend or family without having to enter Lightroom or DxO to produce a file format the recipient can open.
 
If you shoot in Auto mode the JPG will (in many situations) automatically be a multi-frame HDR exposure. This will of course make the JPG look very different from the RAW file, and in many cases have much larger dynamic range than the RAW.
But I also question why you shoot jpgs - and thereby lose 80% of the data from the raw?
I shoot JPG/RAW and use the captures accordingly. Those suitable for sale I process the RAW/DNG file. Shots that are casual and not saleable, I might want to send as a JPG without having to convert it for the recipients to be able to open.
 
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I haven't noticed this with the original Mavic 3.
Can you post an original, full-size example?
You may have to upload to dropbox or similar and post a link.

What exposure setting method are you using?
As mentioned in post #3, if you use auto, recent DJI cameras give a composite HDR image, rather than a normal single shot jpg
I've used both Auto and Pro, the latter for which I usually set to an EV of -.3. I set white balance to Auto or for the light conditions that prevail. Inaccurate manual white balance hasn't produced oversaturation on any other equipment. A color shift is possible, but not oversaturation.
 
I been searching for a useful discussion related to oversaturated Mavic 3 Classic Images. I cannot find one.

To start, I am a photographer, first, who added a Mavic2 Pro to my arsenals of 6 Nikons. I fully understand color space, raw imagery, and jpg algorithms. I always shoot in jpg/raw (dng), for the obvious reasons. The Mavic 3 Classic equipped with the Hasselblad camera is the ONLY camera I have ever had with excruciatingly oversaturated jpgs. In all Nikons, there is a menu selection that allows for tweaking what the jpg algorithm produces when it processes, in camera, the raw capture. Yes, all cameras capture a raw file that is processed to produced the jpg. It's when one specifies RAW & JPG that the camera stores the unprocessed raw file - for the photographer to use in post processing.

There is no question, that the Mavic 3 Classic outputs an oversaturated jpg. The Mavic 2 Pro that I have had for 3 years does not. This is not a matter of faulty white balance select, exposure settings, etc. as other forums inputters "drone" on about. I realize that people are looking at their images on a variety of devices, from phones, to tablets, to Imacs, to PCs, the latter two, may or may not be calibrated. So there can be some variations of what is brought to the screen. I also realize that various viewer/processing packages, from pro grade to those that come packed with the device, can alter the appearance on the screen because they don't emulate the color space associated with the image file.

All these variables, notwithstanding, the Mavic 3 Classic images are oversaturated and there appears, I least I can't find it, to be no way to tweak the jpg setting to produce less saturation.

Is there an agreement out there, based on comparative experience, that the Mavic 3 Classic is producing OVERSATURATED jpg images? If so, has anybody found a fix short of having to deal with it in post processing, which because it is a jpg, is time consuming and less than ideal because the jpg algorithm tossed 80% of the data from the RAW.

P.S. Videos produced in the NORMAL mode don't produce similar oversaturation. The vids are terrific!
I hadn’t noticed this since I always shoot in RAW, but I have friends who have spent their career a professional photographers who always shoot in JPG. They grew up shooting film and are far more skilled than me at composing images which rarely need any correction, so I won’t be critical of you for shooting JPG. It certainly is more efficient
with storage space. To my knowledge there is no color space adjustment in the FLY app.

I will, however, say that image correction doesn’t need to be so difficult. Since all of your images are consistently oversaturated why not set up a profile in LR that adds this correction to whatever standard corrections you make as it imports these images into LR? Alternatively LR would allow you to apply a LUT to all of your JPG images as a synch’d batch.
 
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I've used both Auto and Pro, the latter for which I usually set to an EV of -.3. I set white balance to Auto or for the light conditions that prevail. Inaccurate manual white balance hasn't produced oversaturation on any other equipment. A color shift is possible, but not oversaturation.
Can you post an original, full-size example of the kind of jpg file that has this issue and the corresponding dng file?
You'll have to upload to dropbox or similar and post a link.
 
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I've used both Auto and Pro, the latter for which I usually set to an EV of -.3. I set white balance to Auto or for the light conditions that prevail. Inaccurate manual white balance hasn't produced oversaturation on any other equipment. A color shift is possible, but not oversaturation.
OOC JPEGs are mostly tailored for social media and general public. Saturated images is what general public likes. If you want to "develop" your photos to your own taste, shoot DNG and process to your liking in any of the popular software such as Lightroom, Photoshop etc..
 
OOC JPEGs are mostly tailored for social media and general public. Saturated images is what general public likes. If you want to "develop" your photos to your own taste, shoot DNG and process to your liking in any of the popular software such as Lightroom, Photoshop etc..
The OP said in his first post that he does shoot dng, but had a question about oversaturation of jpg files.
Regular jpg files don't usually show this.

Perhaps this thread from the DJI forum has the explanation?
Skip towards the end where the DJI moderator gives an explanation.
If the OP posts some examples, the metadata will show whether this is the case.

btw The idea that jpg files are only good for social media isn't correct.
Contrary to popular belief, shooting jpg produces very good files and that can be edited to create high standard images.
 
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The OP said in his first post that he does shoot dng, but had a question about oversaturation of jpg files.
Regular jpg files don't usually show this.

Perhaps this thread from the DJI forum has the explanation?
Skip towards the end where the DJI moderator gives an explanation.
If the OP posts some examples, the metadata will show whether this is the case.

btw The idea that jpg files are only good for social media isn't correct.
Contrary to popular belief, shooting jpg produces very good files and that can be edited to create high standard images.
True, as long as you do not edit JPEGs too much😉. They will fall appart pretty quickly when you apply highlights and shadows recovery, change WB etc. Posterization in gradients such as blue sky is typicly most vulnerable. Just something to be mindful of when shooting JPEGs.
 
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The OP said in his first post that he does shoot dng, but had a question about oversaturation of jpg files.
Regular jpg files don't usually show this.

Perhaps this thread from the DJI forum has the explanation?
Skip towards the end where the DJI moderator gives an explanation.
If the OP posts some examples, the metadata will show whether this is the case.

btw The idea that jpg files are only good for social media isn't correct.
Contrary to popular belief, shooting jpg produces very good files and that can be edited to create high standard images.
I agree that properly exposed jpgs can be of such quality that almost or no post is required. Wedding photogs customarily rely on jpgs because processing the hundreds of RAWs is so time consuming. A properly coded jpg algorithm will provide for a faithful rendition of color, contrast and exposure
I hadn’t noticed this since I always shoot in RAW, but I have friends who have spent their career a professional photographers who always shoot in JPG. They grew up shooting film and are far more skilled than me at composing images which rarely need any correction, so I won’t be critical of you for shooting JPG. It certainly is more efficient
with storage space. To my knowledge there is no color space adjustment in the FLY app.

I will, however, say that image correction doesn’t need to be so difficult. Since all of your images are consistently oversaturated why not set up a profile in LR that adds this correction to whatever standard corrections you make as it imports these images into LR? Alternatively LR would allow you to apply a LUT to all of your JPG images as a synch’d batch.
That's an obvious and effective workaround; but, simply becomes a step that ought not be necessary. I will re-emphasize that, curiously, my Mavic 2 Pro does not produce oversaturated jpgs. The matter could be resolved by DJI providing a utility that can be employed to tweak the algorithm to produce a less "vivid" output.
 
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I hadn’t noticed this since I always shoot in RAW, but I have friends who have spent their career a professional photographers who always shoot in JPG. They grew up shooting film and are far more skilled than me at composing images which rarely need any correction, so I won’t be critical of you for shooting JPG. It certainly is more efficient
with storage space. To my knowledge there is no color space adjustment in the FLY app.

I will, however, say that image correction doesn’t need to be so difficult. Since all of your images are consistently oversaturated why not set up a profile in LR that adds this correction to whatever standard corrections you make as it imports these images into LR? Alternatively LR would allow you to apply a LUT to all of your JPG images as a synch’d batch.
I completely realize there are efficient post ways of dealing with the oversaturation. It is what it is. Don't have the issue with the M2P. All that needs to be some is to add a setting that would allow the user to apply the degree of saturation s/he desired. There's ought not be a need to individually or batch process images. One expects that, to a small degree, in processing RAW images. If the MP2 didn't suffer the OS, why should the M3C?
 
I am quite knowledgeable about photography and dealing with digital images. I only shoot RAW in all my pro full frame, medium format and drone cameras. I have Photoshop actions ready to create jpegs from any of them as needed, once processed. No saturation issues. Dump the jpeg save option.

www.jeffreysipress.com
 
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