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Updated Mavic Color Profile Recommendations

Thank you!
I did a similar test and my favorite ended up to be Film-H too, mainly due to the well balanced contrast. It does push the blues slightly, so greens end up a little too dark und seem undersaturated. Did you also apply the subsettings -1,-1,-1 when reviewing the profiles A-I, or was this just applied to D-Cinelike?
 
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Thank you!
I did a similar test and my favorite ended up to be Film-H too, mainly due to the well balanced contrast. It does push the blues slightly, so greens end up a little too dark und seem undersaturated. Did you also apply the subsettings -1,-1,-1 when reviewing the profiles A-I, or was this just applied to D-Cinelike?

Yep. The subsettings (-1-1-1) were also applied when filming the FILM profile tests.
 
They've given the settings comedy names now which is somewhat confusing.
The Film H would be second last I think?
Yeah it's getting a little crazy. Yes H is second to last. Completely revamping color and removing profiles after product release is a sign of how quickly these are rushed to market without proper research and testing.
 
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Frederick, do you feel -1 contrast helps with DR or is it just easier for you to grade since it flattens out the image. I don't really see much benefit outside of matching closer to other flat footage. But if I am only mixing clips shot on the mavic same day, I find it's just as well to leave contrast alone, exposing a stop to right to protect shadows from artifacts/noise.
Curious on your take


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Frederick, do you feel -1 contrast helps with DR or is it just easier for you to grade since it flattens out the image. I don't really see much benefit outside of matching closer to other flat footage. But if I am only mixing clips shot on the mavic same day, I find it's just as well to leave contrast alone, exposing a stop to right to protect shadows from artifacts/noise.
Curious on your take


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Yes.... to both! Using -1 protects the image highlights from blowing out and shadows from being crushed. So it makes is much easier to grade because once you've overexposed or crushed the blacks....there's nothing you, I or anyone can do to get that information back in post. When mixing clips it's even more important to start with an image shot at -1. This will give you much more wiggle room when putting together multiple clips and trying to balance them visually throughout your edit. I've noticed that contrast at 0 is just too hot for the highlights at any angle or light situation. Hope this makes sense...I feel like I'm rambling.
 
When the update came out I also used CineLike -1,-1,-1... amazing... The overall picture is so much better than the previous firmware. I filmed this today using it.


 
Thanks for the tips. I shot with CineLike -2,-1,-1 today and wish I did -1,-1,-1 now. I forgot to lock my exposure while shooting so all my clips in post do not line up very easily.
 
Thanks for the tips. I shot with CineLike -2,-1,-1 today and wish I did -1,-1,-1 now. I forgot to lock my exposure while shooting so all my clips in post do not line up very easily.
-1,-1,-1 looks amazing.... I am finally happy with the footage.
 
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@jonnybravotv Do you feel like with -1,-1,-1 that you HAVE to color grade all your footage? I did some footage for a family member today but not something that will be used for production, went to do a quick edit and found I had to do a bunch of color grading and didn't have a good LUT for a quick job.
 
Hi Frederick I live in dubai and most of my filming will be done in the desert due to flight restrictions here. Given the conditions bright sunlight and generally blue skies would you consider your recommended profile would apply here or would you suggest something different? Thanks barry


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Hi Frederick I live in dubai and most of my filming will be done in the desert due to flight restrictions here. Given the conditions bright sunlight and generally blue skies would you consider your recommended profile would apply here or would you suggest something different? Thanks barry


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Barry I think the D-Cinelike profile would work perfect for your conditions. The one thing I would highly recommend is using ND filters. The desert is extremely bright and you'll want your shutter speed to stay low for best video quality. (Your shutter speed should be set to double the frame rate. e.g. If you're shooting at 24 of 25 frames per second your shutter speed should be locked in at 50. That said 50-100 on shutter speed is acceptable.) I would get an ND8 and the ND16. Flying in the desert with full on sun and midday lighting will probably require the ND16 for most of the day. The ND8 is a good all around ND for early morning and late afternoon lighting.

Clear skies to you!
 
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Hi Frederick I live in dubai and most of my filming will be done in the desert due to flight restrictions here. Given the conditions bright sunlight and generally blue skies would you consider your recommended profile would apply here or would you suggest something different? Thanks barry


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Many thanks - greatly appreciated


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You dont HAVE to grade anything, if you pick a style that looks good to you for what you are going for. I am starting to like Film H as well for some general shooting that wont be put in with other footage. However, if the drone footage is going to be used with other footage from different cameras, then shooting a more neutral color profiles (like D-Cinelike) then it will be easier to match the different footage later on. I did a comparison between D-Cinelike, D-Cinelike Graded (a little over the top), None and True Color. I shot them using Waypoints, so the drone flew the same flight for each of the 3 laps. It was overcast, and about noon when I shot it. The other settings were -1,-3,-1. I have already moved those to -1,-1,-1 for the future.

 
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