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Weight reduction of Mini 2 down to 212g = 4 minutes more air time.

This has been an interesting read so far. I've been mulling over a lightweight CF frame rebuild for a long time now. I'm imagining a rigid frame with tubular arms with the intention of losing as much weight as possible. The hinge mechanisms undoubtedly add a fair bit of weight. The "donor" would be a mini 1. As it's relatively underpowered it would probably reap more benefits from shedding unneeded weight.
 
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In ordinary life, we will not fly with the plastic removed on the drone. Then why take it off? Only for experiment because it is interesting to try. I find relief by way of a dead end. You correctly said that 3500 mAh is the most optimal size.
Even for record-breaking flights at maximum range on Mavic Air, he preferred not to remove the plastic, but to fly in its original form. Adding only battery capacity.
🤝
Yes, you are right. I'm actually putting everything back again. I did it only to test different things that I was curious about. I think no doubt it looks much better when it has top cover and everything back. Safety is also restored as it was.
I think DJI made a very good product with Mini 2. I put back everything and batteries too. I have Mini 2 and 2 batteries now back to stock. 3rd battery - the one that I cut pcb board from - I will not reuse, just because it's not as safe to solder it back - I will not trust my weld to hold all the vibrations and risk losing a drone in mid flight. I consider that battery sacrificed in the name of science lol. I had fly more package with 3 batteries, and now I have 2 batteries. It's still plenty of air time - 20 min for each battery in real life.

I will fly it happily.......until Mini 3 comes out.
 
This has been an interesting read so far. I've been mulling over a lightweight CF frame rebuild for a long time now. I'm imagining a rigid frame with tubular arms with the intention of losing as much weight as possible. The hinge mechanisms undoubtedly add a fair bit of weight. The "donor" would be a mini 1. As it's relatively underpowered it would probably reap more benefits from shedding unneeded weight.
Thank you. Yes, it's interesting sometimes to venture into mods and see how specs change with mods you do with your own hands. It's a bit like custom building your car in old days. I think Mini 1 is a good donor. I'm limited by the need to put everything back, so I can't really go to extremes, because I still want to fly it where it's legal and I don't want to fly a Frankenstein" to not cause any troubles and not cause any attention. However, I can see there are still ways to go to reduce weight and increase flying time and agility.
I'm actually back to full stock right now. Thank you everyone!
 
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I will not trust my weld to hold all the vibrations and risk losing a drone in mid flight.
It is very easy to solder the elements in the battery well. The seam is very high quality, you just need a 100 W soldering iron.
 
I have a donor Mavic Pro. It will be as easy as possible. And it will look something like this. Photo and concept from the Internet.
 

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I have a donor Mavic Pro. It will be as easy as possible. And it will look something like this. Photo and concept from the Internet.
They're my pictures :).

Let me know how you get on... Maybe one day I'll do that to my Mini 1

 
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It is very easy to solder the elements in the battery well. The seam is very high quality, you just need a 100 W soldering iron.
Ah, maybe that's why I was having problems when I was welding. I think my welder is a cheap one with barely 60W. I will take note and order a good 100W soldering iron. To be honest I only welded several times in my life and I'm not experienced.
 
They're my pictures :)

Is that a real drone? It looks very futuristic!
 
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Super!!
 
I opened up my mini 1, and while I was at it I measured up the components (circuit boards, gimbal, battery, motors etc) and then knocked up a scale model in CAD of the components in their original positions. I then built a model of a carbon fibre frame in and around the components to support them, along with some plastic parts for the arms. The frame would be made from CF sheet and tube glued together, along with 3d printed plastic parts. The white hood could be made from a sheet of acrylic heated and pressed into shape. The CAD software I was using can output 3d photorealistic renders and that's where these images came from. There's still a bit of fine detail that needs to be sorted (eg exact locations of screws, gimbal mounts, battery slot etc).

Inspiration came from the Inspire 2... can you tell?
 
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Ah, maybe that's why I was having problems when I was welding. I think my welder is a cheap one with barely 60W. I will take note and order a good 100W soldering iron. To be honest I only welded several times in my life and I'm not experienced.
There is a main requirement - not to overheat li-po elements. 100w makes soldering very quickly due to its power, the heat does not have time to reach dangerous chemistry. I use an acidic flux, then wash it very thoroughly with alcohol. The controller that you have left must be unlocked after soldering the new 3500 elements. It is very easy. And it only costs $3. The program is free, and CP2112 is on Aliexpress. Make a battery, order CP2112 and I will teach you how to unlock.
 
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Inspiration came from the Inspire 2... can you tell?
1. I did not see the antennas that are located in the beams of the Mini 1. But this is easy to do as you wish.
2. Personally, I need more space for the battery compartment. They will be as big as possible.
3. The white fairing must be radio-transparent. But I don't need it, it's overweight.

The idea itself is very good, but everyone adjusts to their desires.
 
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1. I did not see the antennas that are located in the beams of the Mini 1. But this is easy to do as you wish.
2. Personally, I need more space for the battery compartment. They will be as big as possible.
3. The white fairing must be radio-transparent. But I don't need it, it's overweight.

The idea itself is very good, but everyone adjusts to their desires.
Good point - antennas are missing on the concept.

My motivation for doing a frame rebuild like this is to reduce the overall weight so that the limited power the MM1 has can be better used for making it more responsive and better in wind. I think that aerodynamics start to become important at the sort of airspeeds these drones fly at and that was the main reason for the top shell.

As you say, everyone has different priorities, so what is perfect for one isn't perfect for another :)
 
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I made a short video on unlocking the Mavic Air battery controller. Look, it's fantastically simple. The developer of the program, my friend Mikhail, (we live in Ukraine). He gave his program absolutely free. The video is in Russian, but it is possible to understand the general meaning.
 
I made a short video on unlocking the Mavic Air battery controller. Look, it's fantastically simple. The developer of the program, my friend Mikhail, (we live in Ukraine). He gave his program absolutely free. The video is in Russian, but it is possible to understand the general meaning.
Thank you so much! I will order CP2112. This is really interesting stuff! Slawaw I'll get back as soon as I receive it. I very much appreciate this information.
 
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To get lighter version - I took off top cover, bottom cover and heat sink. This is all on stock battery. Checked temperature without heat sink and it was barely lukewarm, so no issues at all indoors. Then I did some testing today: stock Mini 2 (238g) vs lighter Mini 2 (212g) hovering above floor indoors. Lighter version did hover for 4 minutes more. So 26g difference (11% weight difference) gives about 4 minutes extra air time.

Took a test flight outside with lighter version and some observations so far:
1. Even less noisy than stock, noticeably less noisy. Pitch is lower and you can hear it it's not struggling at all vs stock one. I had hard time even hearing it from 6ft away outside when it was hovering. This thing is seriously stealthy.

2. Flight time increased and you can tell the difference right away looking at timer and percentage and slower voltage drop.

3. Biggest surprise was to NOT get any strong wind warning even when I went 400ft altitude. Previously flying in the same spot multiple times I ALWAYS got strong wind warning starting at 240ft altitude. I'm guessing 11% weight reduction makes that much easier for motors to correct for wind. Contrary to popular belief that heavier drones handle wind better. I'm assuming it's not about weight but about weight to power ratio and how easy it is for drone to compensate for wind.

4. I was worried if it will start snowing during the flight and ruining the drone, but it came back dry as a bone. So that's something to look out for. I might cover it with transparent plastic wrap on top - will barely weigh anything, but will cover it from rain/snow. That might be the solution.

5. It's hard to explain, but I felt that drone was more agile and easy to control in windy weather.


Things I want to check tomorrow: max speed to find out if it'll increase due to less weight of drone or if its limited by firmware and will stay the same as stock. Overall I'm very pleased with results so far.
Where do you start to take off the top and bottom covers? I’m not the best at this kind of thing and would rather not break anything. Thanks.
 
Where do you start to take off the top and bottom covers? I’m not the best at this kind of thing and would rather not break anything. Thanks.
Best not trying to take the covers off if you don't feel you're very good at this kind of thing and don't want to break anything. There are a few small screws to undo and quite a few plastic clips to prise apart. The shell is very thin and easy to break. However, if you still want to try then have a look at some teardown videos. Here's one for starters:

 
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