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What triggers the requirement to use Python to calibrate gimbal mini 4K

DRONE HAPPY

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Hello all!
I am attempting to repair a mini 4k that broke the gimbal bracket after a flying incident. I intend to replace the gimbal bracket only and reuse the camera/gimbal assembly (as the camera/gimbal assembly seems to be in working order). I will most likely replace the ribbon cable and the camera cable at the same time. Since I am not changing the camera or the circuit board for the camera on the gimbal, My thinking is that I should not have a calibration issue on reassembly. This is just a guess on my part. So my question--what triggers the requirement to use Python to calibrate a gimbal? How much "stuff" can be replaced before major calibration is required.
Thanks to all responses.
Bob
 
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In VERY BASIC terms when you install a camera\Gimbal on a Drone, That new Gimbal needs to find its 0,0,0 Point or level point Running the python scripts does this, after you run the scripts the DJI calibration method will know where 0,0,0 is...There is much more to it really but thats basically it. If you do not replace the cam then you will probably only need the DJI cal BUT if the cam sits funny or looks off when the drone sits level, you will need to do the python cal. to correct it.
DJI Drone firmware is created with Ubuntu This is why you use python to talk to them.
 
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Thank you Cafguy! That's all I need to know. If I don't replace the camera and the gimbal is correct when I complete reassembly, then I should be able to calibrate with the DJI app. If that is not the case, then the Python approach may be required. I like it! Thanks again.
 
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Thank you Cafguy! That's all I need to know. If I don't replace the camera and the gimbal is correct when I complete reassembly, then I should be able to calibrate with the DJI app. If that is not the case, then the Python approach may be required. I like it! Thanks again.
Just make sure you replace ANY silicon or heat sink paste you remove! ( if you need to remove silicon from a connection Make sure to use board cleaner and get ALL the old stuff off!) and if you disassemble a part that contacts another with heat paste, be sure to purchase some Corsair paste and brush on a thin coat before reassembly.
Use ONLY Kingboxer silicone to secure your connections!
 
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Cafguy: I set out to purchase some Corsair paste but there are several different grades---70,60,50, and 30. Which one do you recommend?
Corsair Thermal Paste Tiers:
  • XTM70 (Extreme Performance): Best for very hot, high-TDP CPUs (250W+) and extreme overclocking; features low viscosity for easy spreading and comes with a stencil for perfect application.
  • XTM60 (High Performance): Great for high-performance builds, offering efficient heat transfer and long-term stability for demanding CPUs and GPUs.
  • XTM50 (High Performance): A reliable, complete solution for lowering temperatures, often used in previous-gen high-end AIOs; also includes a stencil for clean, even coverage.
  • TM30 (Entry-Level): Older, entry-level paste used in older Corsair coolers (like the H100i V2).
 
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  • XTM60 (High Performance): Great for high-performance builds, offering efficient heat transfer and long-term stability for demanding CPUs and GPUs.
  • XTM50 (High Performance): A reliable, complete solution for lowering temperatures, often used in previous-gen high-end AIOs; also includes a stencil for clean, even coverage.
 
Flashing is required when replacing the motherboard, camera, or any of the 3 gimbal motors. For Air 3 and Mavic 3, also required if collision avoidance cameras need to be replaced.
The python method is a pain. Use Drone-Hacks version 1.47. So much easier.
www.drone-hacks.com
 
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