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Air 3 Problems: Is it defective or am I doing something wrong?

Paul Harvey

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Hello all.

I just got an Air 3 after flying the Air 2 and Air 2s for a few years.

I've taken three flights now and have noticed some deficiencies in the Air 3, as compared with the 2 & 2s:

1) The new controller's batteries do not last near as long as the older controllers, even though they take just as long to charge.
2) I get "Check your WiFi signal" message a lot, even if I'm only 10 feet from my router (outside on my back porch).
3) After switching to Sport mode, it seems to take about two seconds to kick in. Is this normal?
4) And the worst is I'm getting the "Weak signal, adjust antennas" message after just over a mile. Flying in open areas, no hills, wires, etc.

Again, I experienced none of these problems with the Air 2 or 2S. I searched the manual and can't find anything addressing the problems.

I should also note, on two of the flights I flew in the same areas and took pretty much the same routes.

Bonus question! What is an 'LRF' file?

Can anyone help?

Thanks,
Livingston
 
LRF is a low resolution (video) file which is identical to the high-resolution file...in case you need it. My understanding is you are unable to prevent it from being created.
 
Are you using the new RC-N2 or the RC-2 (one with the screen)? You should be getting a good two or three hours or 6-8 20 minute flights regardless of which one you use. I had the Air 2 and 2s and those controllers didn't last any longer. Range should be easily as good or better and that's what I'm seeing. The sport mode issue I didn't notice. If the range issue persists, maybe you have a lemon and get it replaced. Good luck.
 
@Paul Harvey ,I have the Mini3 pro with the DJI RC, and the Air3 with the DJIRC2
i have noticed that the 4th green light on the RC2 does start flashing sooner than the original one does ,i normally am able to fly 2 batteries in the Mini3 pro,down to around 30% before this happens ,but in the RC2 it will start to flash after flying one battery ,and as i am waiting for the drone to connect to Sats ,and prepare for take off with the second battery ,again flying down to around 30% remaining charge
i attribute this to two things
(1) the flight time of the Air3 compared to the Mini3 pro
(2) the fact that the RC2 has an internal fan and a better processor,which uses more of the battery
i think that this is to be expected ,and is not a fault
i have not had any issues with warning messages up to now
 
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Are you using the new RC-N2 or the RC-2 (one with the screen)? You should be getting a good two or three hours or 6-8 20 minute flights regardless of which one you use. I had the Air 2 and 2s and those controllers didn't last any longer. Range should be easily as good or better and that's what I'm seeing. The sport mode issue I didn't notice. If the range issue persists, maybe you have a lemon and get it replaced. Good luck.
Yeah, I figured that might be the case :( Thanks for responding!
 
LRF is a low resolution (video) file which is identical to the high-resolution file...in case you need it. My understanding is you are unable to prevent it from being created.
Pro Tip: if you rename all the LRF extensions to .mp4, you can use them as instant proxy files for editing your video in Premiere Pro! No other additional proxy file creation is necessary! Great time saver! Just rename them, and then import the full sized originals into PP, and attach the renamed LRF proxy files for immediate use.
 
Pro Tip: if you rename all the LRF extensions to .mp4, you can use them as instant proxy files for editing your video in Premiere Pro! No other additional proxy file creation is necessary! Great time saver! Just rename them, and then import the full sized originals into PP, and attach the renamed LRF proxy files for immediate use.
Sure; thx. Since I use Davinci Resolve, this is already handling in a very nice process that I use to make sure everything is smooth and linked and works well together. Good to see the LRF created for me so one day I'll see how it compares but I have a bit more project control over proxies within the Resolve generator especially now that I have a powerful computer and plenty of SSD.

 
Sure; thx. Since I use Davinci Resolve, this is already handling in a very nice process that I use to make sure everything is smooth and linked and works well together. Good to see the LRF created for me so one day I'll see how it compares but I have a bit more project control over proxies within the Resolve generator especially now that I have a powerful computer and plenty of SSD.

Before the LRF files, I had to create the proxies myself, which was a 30 minute delay to editing anything more than a front and back trim. Once I found out the LRF files were proxies that PP could use after renaming their extensions, renaming all of them takes less than a minute, saving me 29 minutes.

DJI creates the LRF files for simplified video editing for social media use with their own "in app" video editor. Might as well use them as proxies! They are actually higher quality proxies than the ones I was creating on my own!
 
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@Paul Harvey ,I have the Mini3 pro with the DJI RC, and the Air3 with the DJIRC2
i have noticed that the 4th green light on the RC2 does start flashing sooner than the original one does ,i normally am able to fly 2 batteries in the Mini3 pro,down to around 30% before this happens ,but in the RC2 it will start to flash after flying one battery ,and as i am waiting for the drone to connect to Sats ,and prepare for take off with the second battery ,again flying down to around 30% remaining charge
i attribute this to two things
(1) the flight time of the Air3 compared to the Mini3 pro
(2) the fact that the RC2 has an internal fan and a better processor,which uses more of the battery
i think that this is to be expected ,and is not a fault
i have not had any issues with warning messages up to now
On my Mavic 2 Pro I can charge the controller while flying with an external phone type battery.Don't know if that's possible on the Air 2 controllers you mention.
 
Are you using the new RC-N2 or the RC-2 (one with the screen)? You should be getting a good two or three hours or 6-8 20 minute flights regardless of which one you use. I had the Air 2 and 2s and those controllers didn't last any longer. Range should be easily as good or better and that's what I'm seeing. The sport mode issue I didn't notice. If the range issue persists, maybe you have a lemon and get it replaced. Good luck.
Yeah, I'm going to run more tests when I can (temps are over 100 all week here). If the problems keep up I'll return it. Thanks much for responding!
 
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@offtheback i dont see why not, i have turned my RC2 on while it is still charging and it works fine just the same as the original RC does,all you need is a long enough lead from your power-bank,which you can carry on your person and charge while you fly.
give it a try and let us know how it went
 
4) And the worst is I'm getting the "Weak signal, adjust antennas" message after just over a mile. Flying in open areas, no hills, wires, etc.

I should also note, on two of the flights I flew in the same areas and took pretty much the same routes.
Bummer on the range and no one addressing this. OC4 was a prime motivator for me.
 
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I will never believe anyone's assertion that they can tell orientation at one mile. They will have to prove it to me live. No one has ever been able to. In fact, in-person no one's ever been able to see a mavic-size drone at 1 mile that I've met. 1 km (about 3000ft) yes, barely.

Part of the visual requirement is you can determine what direction it's going to move when you apply control input.
 
I will never believe anyone's assertion that they can tell orientation at one mile. They will have to prove it to me live. No one has ever been able to. In fact, in-person no one's ever been able to see a mavic-size drone at 1 mile that I've met. 1 km (about 3000ft) yes, barely.

Part of the visual requirement is you can determine what direction it's going to move when you apply control input.
Put two very bright green lights on the front arms and two very bright red lights on the back arms. Two flashing white lights on the bottom and one steady white light on top. Plus one beeping alarm; if it gets louder, it's coming towards you; if it gets dimmer, it's going away from you.

But in any event, I don't recall anywhere in the study material saying you have to know the direction. AFAIK, you just have to be able to see it.
 
Put two very bright green lights on the front arms and two very bright red lights on the back arms. Two flashing white lights on the bottom and one steady white light on top. Plus one beeping alarm; if it gets louder, it's coming towards you; if it gets dimmer, it's going away from you.

But in any event, I don't recall anywhere in the study material saying you have to know the direction. AFAIK, you just have to be able to see it.
At a mile, you don't even need all those lights and sirens, one green in the front and one white in the rear and you're good. Maybe won't work so well in the daytime.

I do recall reading that you need to know the direction your drone is going but I didn't take it to mean the instant you moved the sticks or before you even move the the sticks. To me, that's a bit much. Meaning, if you moved the sticks and watch the drone move for a second or two, you need to be able to tell which direction it is going. That should be sufficient.
 
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