Air2s 4k photo is not nice

[Daniel2300]

Haha, I am not professional in photo/video editing, just stick to original copy, sometimes post on Facebook and Instagram to share with friends.
I am not so particular about beautifying the photos.

 

[Daniel2300]

Compare the photos with Hubsan ACE 2, auto mode,
iso and shutter set by drone.
It looks very nice, better than Air2S and Fimi.

 

[Daniel2300]

I can fly Hubsan ACE 2 with 4G , it has built in 4G, just insert your SIM card to the slot.

 

[Daniel2300]

Th Fimi X8 Pro night mode auto setting with EV 0.0
But not nice

 

[Daniel2300]

Fimi X8 Pro daytime video, compared with DJI Air 2S

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[Daniel2300]

Comparing with Fimi HDR mode with EV = -1.0







Below is non-HDR and Auto mode

 

[Daniel2300]

Do you have any comment?
HDR mode looks natural to eyes or Auto mode?
Today I set EV=-1.0 when using HDR mode. Shutter and ISO are not adjustable.

 

[Daniel2300]

Non HDR, manual setting, but color choose VIVID mode

 

[BingBong]

Have you tried shooting Raw DNGs and editing? JPGs as shot will generally be fairly ordinary looking. I edit Air 2S DNGs in Adobe Lightroom Classic, but anything that edits DNGs will give better results than JPGs as shot. It does take more effort though.

 

[Meta4]

Have you tried shooting Raw DNGs and editing? JPGs as shot will generally be fairly ordinary looking. I edit Air 2S DNGs in Adobe Lightroom Classic, but anything that edits DNGs will give better results than JPGs as shot. It does take more effort though.

You can also edit jpg image files.

 

[BingBong]

You can also edit jpg image files.

You can edit JPGs, but they are only 8-bit, and are already lossy. Each re-save of a JPG loses more detail. The DNG Raw contains a lot more information in unedited form, so highlight and shadow recovery is greater.

 

[Meta4]

You can edit JPGs, but they are only 8-bit, and are already lossy. Each re-save of a JPG loses more detail.
The DNG Raw contains a lot more information in unedited form, so highlight and shadow recovery is greater.

Too often the discussion about dng files convinces users who aren't serious photographers that they must shoot raw.
But that's not true and shooting jpg is a good option.
For the folks that don't want to bother with dng files, it's still possible to get very good results with jpg files and editing is no problem.

 

[BingBong]

Too often the discussion about dng files convinces users who aren't serious photographers that they must shoot raw.
But that's not true and shooting jpg is a good option.
For the folks that don't want to bother with dng files, it's still possible to get very good results with jpg files and editing is no problem.

Agreed, but if you are going to the trouble of editing JPGs, editing DNG Raws isn't a lot more work and gives more scope and better results. Certainly worth trying DNGs with a free image editor to see what you're missing. If the JPGs just need minor tweaking, then that is a good option, but you won't recover blown skies.

 

[tlyons]

1 inch sensor?
But I feel that the photo is not so nice.
Either Auto mode shooting or manual setting.
Fimi X8 Pro looks better.

This is a DJI forum so most will tend to favor the Air 2s. The newer Fimi x8 Pro is using a 1/1.3" 48MP advertised with dual native ISO and native HDR. It is entirely possible this is same sensor as Mini 3 Pro/4 Pro/Air 3/Osmo Action 4. It's a much newer design than the Air 2s and many have found it to be as good and sometimes better performance than the Air 2s.

Assuming you keep the drone, its worth understanding what you have. If it were me I would:
1. Place both drones on a table pointed at something interesting.
2. Power them up (but not taking off) and at mostly the same time take a photo with each in auto mode. Download each and open with something like Irfanview and examine the EXIF data.
3. Go to manual mode and set the parameters to match the EXIF and take another photo.
4. Vary everything you can up and down. For example, if the Air 2s used ISO 200, try 100 and 400. If exposure is 1/120, try 1/60 and 1/240. Trun HDR on and off. Offline look at the photos and see what you like and see what you can learn.

Good luck!

 

[RBI55]

For those put off by Adobe's "rental/subscription" software financing package, there's always Affinity Photo. This does 90+% of what Photoshop does but for a fraction of the price, plus the ability to actually own the product. And no, I'm not affiliated with Affinity in any way. Worse, I'm locked into Adobe because I've been using it for decades and my clients all use Adobe (not so much an issue with Photoshop as it is with Illustrator and InDesign for which Affinity has comparable software). Not so easy for me to recreate files although Markzware.com makes it possible.

And FWIW, RAW image file format will offer the extreme editing potential of all digital images. JPEGs are convenient but have already dropped image quality by the time it's saved even the first time. Each and every time you save it, it loses more file information. (Simply opening and closing a JPEG does not degrade the file quality though.)