Beginning to wonder about Crystal Sky

[Aerial West]

They're ok if your just snapping pictures, to difficult to get your fingers in the hole to do anything else at least that was my experience with one.

as a cinematic shooter, I do my settings before the shot starts. it did take a week or so to get used to the opening, but that self sealing opening became critical for movie and television shots where the DP needs perfect exposure and high quality. i don't need to reach through to adjust aperture or exposure too often, and never while I'm actually filming a sequence.

Also, they elastic on a new hoodman is pretty tight, but it loosens up a bit and becomes a non-issue. at least that has been my experience over the years using one.

 

[Fistworthy]

I bought an ultra when they were first released in November, the backlight lasted three hours and took three weeks to replace. The new replacement ultra lasted under two hours before the backlight died again and was sent back last Friday.

I know of at least two others with multiple backlight failures, and DJI have pulled it from their webstore so it's obviously still a major problem.

 

[Forestjim]

I bought an ultra when they were first released in November, the backlight lasted three hours and took three weeks to replace. The new replacement ultra lasted under two hours before the backlight died again and was sent back last Friday.

I know of at least two others with multiple backlight failures, and DJI have pulled it from their webstore so it's obviously still a major problem.

Yes. I’m one with multiple fails too. I’ve bought a 2nd hand CS 5.5 to use as a backup.

 

[Nitecapt]

Dayum!! Mine just got shipped. Looking at the DJI site, I see they have not had it in stock for a long time. Often a company will stop selling items until they update or repair known problems. That's what worries me. What is DJI up to? Are they fixing something?

 

[Forestjim]

Dayum!! Mine just got shipped. Looking at the DJI site, I see they have not had it in stock for a long time. Often a company will stop selling items until they update or repair known problems. That's what worries me. What is DJI up to? Are they fixing something?

I think you should be fine. Just be very mindful of overheating
This is what I do but I could be totally wrong.
I turn off Autobright function and put it to manual.
I bought a cheap digital thermometer
I put the screen brightness between 30 to 50%
Be mindful of the heat it’s giving out and if the fan is coming on
The heat comes from the top left area of screen
If it gets to 45c I’d be turning if off and flying home on the sticks
I think the overheating of these ultras comes when the fan does not kick on. The lastest update was to fix this, but some people are still frying them.
I’ve also just bought a 5.5 as a back up and the fan kicks in just about 40c.
Now I have this I’m not going to be precious with my ultra.
I only use my Crystalskys as a monitor. The screen is awesome. As a tablet they are crap.
Happy flying

 

[BCF]

+1 for the CS. Have both sizes and zero problems with either of them.

 

[Fistworthy]

+1 for the CS. Have both sizes and zero problems with either of them.

While it's not in the thread title, we (and OP) are talking about the "Ultra Bright" 2000nit model, almost 100% of them are well known to be faulty.

You probably own the High Bright 1000nit models.

 

[BCF]

While it's not in the thread title, we (and OP) are talking about the "Ultra Bright" 2000nit model, almost 100% of them are well known to be faulty.

You probably own the High Bright 1000nit models.

Fortunately, yes I do.

 

[lannes]

The CS UB is the problem child , so much so ,it’s out of stock on the DJI website. This is probably by design . The HB’s are very good my 5.5 has been faultless for 6 mths. I think the heat generated by the UB panel at 2000 nits causes a reflow problem on the circuit board , that’s why it’s always a replacement rather than a repair

 

[Forestjim]

Update.
My Ultra bright with lots of setting ticked like Cashe etc. is running well at the moment. I’ve put many hours of flying on it with no signs of overheating over the past month. Mind you on 3rd replacement one lol.
I’m mindful of over heating and I keep my digital thermometer handy. I keep my hand near the top left of screen. This is where they get hot. I meaning sizzling hot.
The only setting I reduced is I turned off auto brightness and keep the screen brightness to 50% max.
I find this plenty so high brightness CS sounds a logical choice.
I’m starting to regain some confidence but my finger are still crossed.

 

[Fistworthy]

I was also being careful with my third, only ever used manual brightness at about 75%. It still only lasted around an hour.

I'm not sure I want a fourth sent back to me until they fix the problem.

 

[Forestjim]

I was also being careful with my third, only ever used manual brightness at about 75%. It still only lasted around an hour.

I'm not sure I want a fourth sent back to me until they fix the problem.

I’m starting to loose confidence again !!!
Lucky I bought a cheap 2nd Hand 5.5 as a back up lol

So when I fried the other ones I recon I had auto brightness on and on the old firmware
They did fry early in flight, first battery in mostly full sun. That’s why I was keeping the brightness at 50% max. Run it like a high brightness.

I’m think there is a bug in go4 or firmware
That cause these things to overheat because I very rarely or if it all hear the fan come on.
On my 5.5 it comes on at around 35c
On my ultra it’s past 40c maybe.
I’ve run YouTube for a full a fully battery and it didn’t even get warm.
I was doing some editing on my ultra via go4 editor and it got hot real quick. It got to 42c
with no fan coming on, so I put it in the fridge until it finished lol

If the Screen wasn’t so awesome on these things you just throw them in the bin

 

[silverdragon]

I have my CS High for 3 weeks now and used it 12 times. All 12 times I had issues with it. All 12 times it crashes at least once with the exception of 1 time it crashes 3 times. It would lock up(freeze up). Would have to reboot. 8 times at the first take off Lag galour. The screen would make 1 inches x 1 inches size box pixelation and the boxes would move all over the screen. But I noticed after the lag and pixelation the screen would clear up and work properly until the the screen would freeze up. But after all that hoopla, it would work perfectly. Love and hate relationship.

 

[lannes]

I have my CS High for 3 weeks now and used it 12 times. All 12 times I had issues with it. All 12 times it crashes at least once with the exception of 1 time it crashes 3 times. It would lock up(freeze up). Would have to reboot. 8 times at the first take off Lag galour. The screen would make 1 inches x 1 inches size box pixelation and the boxes would move all over the screen. But I noticed after the lag and pixelation the screen would clear up and work properly until the the screen would freeze up. But after all that hoopla, it would work perfectly. Love and hate relationship.

For the lag you can try and turn off the cpu intensive functions in the dji go 4 app, these are mainly the camera assistance settings like the “ focus peaking “ , “over exposure warming” etc.

Pixelation might also be the result of interference, maybe try a antenna booster, I use a amplified antenna panel (2.4ghz) and have never had any pixelation or lag issues with any version of Dji Go 4 on the CS, might be something to do with the signal strength and the boosting of the return signal from the AC.

 

[Forestjim]

I’ve had a few screen freezers lately but no lag.

 

[GCImaging]

I have had my CS UB for 3 months now and am continuing to have a major lock up issue. The device will freeze up mid flight, with no warning and will not reconnect until everything has been restarted. This has caused me tremendous angst and DJI have not been able to sort out the issue. When it works, it is a great device.

 

[radman]

I have the CS Ultrabright and have never had a real problem. I have experienced some video lag, but nothing serious. It certainly is not as capable as my iPad Air 2, which has been faultless even if the screen is too dim in full sunlight.
But I’m becoming paranoid after reading about all the problems with multiple backlight failures. Everything is working now so I’m afraid to upgrade anything. I have set the F2 button to toggle between full brightness and low intensity just in case the tablet overheats. I live in a desert area and not looking forward to summer where the temperature can exceed 110 deg F. Any suggestions short of carrying around an ice pack?

 

[Forestjim]

I’d just be keeping my eye on the heat. They say the will function up to 50c. So if it’s getting towards 45c, I’d be switching it off and hitting RTH.
I use one of those cheap digital thermometer to check. Top left of the screen is where they get hot.
Good luck you might have a good one.

 

[prb]

My problem with the Crystal Sky Ultrabright is that it won't always show the map. Furthermore, it doesn't gave a satellite view. Flying along cliffs is very risky with just a map.

 

[Forestjim]

My problem with the Crystal Sky Ultrabright is that it won't always show the map. Furthermore, it doesn't gave a satellite view. Flying along cliffs is very risky with just a map.

Fingers crossed off line maps back next update and heating issue fix