It blocks scattered light differently depending on the angle of the sun. It will only do that at 2 angles from the sun.Like I said in my earlier post folks tend to disagree with how I use it. As I stated, at 12 oclock it blocks some scattered light and with that bumps the saturation slightly.
Here is a pan around with the polarizer at 12 oclock. You tell me where the problem is.
I will leave it at this as it is not helping the OP.
One other issue with a polarizer.Even if the sun is at 90 degrees from where the lens is pointed a lens of about 30 mm focal length or less the polarizer effect will not fully cover the field.Most obvious is a large swath of blue sky where a part of the sky is not darkened.That said,it can be useful with even a less than 30 mm lens if the area photographed is not even in brightness/color etc.It probably only works for you part of the time.
One thing that is not arguable is the science behind how it works, which usually means that the orientation of the filter needs to be a certain number degrees from the angle of the sun. That's what the mark means on the ring.
So if you take a picture of a building at one angle and just happens to be at the right angle, then you move to take a shot of the same building from the next side, then it will not work the same as it did for the last shot.
Getting the same results from both sides of the house would require you to land the craft and adjust the ring. To be proper, you would have to look to the new direction through the CP (or through the camera) and see it working as you turn the ring until you get to where you want it. The mark on the ring is for your reference to remember that setting (so as you move around from shot to shot, you don't always have to check it manually).
Leaving the ring at 12 o'clock means that it will only be 100% effective if the sun is 90s to the left or right of the camera orientation.
Of course, you will still get partial effectiveness at angles in-between, which may be fine for someone that doesn't want to be bothered with the whole landing and ring-adjustment thing. There's nothing wrong with that, but readers should know how this works.
"Polarized light is light who’s rays have been scattered due to pollution, moisture in the atmosphere and reflection. A circular polarizer filter only allows light rays that are traveling in one direction to enter the lens. "
You can take great pictures in fully auto mode and jpeg format.
What I really like about this one is it has a mark on the ring so you know where the polarization is.
What's to say you can't do a little editing on jpg files?
I've given examples of what can be achieved earlier in this thread.
It's funny that all those that say shoot in raw only still process in post and then export to jpeg. Isn't that exactly what the Mavic is doing when you take a Jpeg pic so what's the difference. One does it manually on their Computer the other automatically right there and then. Lol.
If you think my example shots were all shot in optimum, easy lighting conditions I must have done a good job with my editing.If nothing else you just proved the other point. JPG is kind of acceptable in optimum, easy lighting conditions. Scenes without a large dynamic range, without a lot of contrast and without a lot of fine detail. Even a spark would work for those.
Anything slightly less optimum and the raw is going to give you huge amounts more tonal and colour range to play with.
Maybe not for you but I have learned how to use it just fine and I get the results I'm looking for. Experimentation can teach you alot.Nice idea but it doesnt work. There is no way of knowing the exact polarisation angle without actually testing it as you have no way of knowing exactly which polarisation angles are causing the glare. Thats why most polarisers including those on real land based cameras dont have that mark - because it simply doesnt work.
and there are also situations, especially those with a high dynamic range and/or low light where auto mode and jpg mode will produce a terrible photo where manual/raw would produce a great one.
Its all about knowing the limitations of the camera and software and working around them.
I agree, but if all you know is auto and jpeg you do the best with what you have or just don’t take the picture.
You know how to FLY a drone. In the air. Safely and effectively. The least challenging bit of this is learning how to use manual exposure or at least aperture priority and RAW. Besides, it’s fun editing your work after a nice day shooting with RAW
I agree it’s not that difficult but what if someone doesn’t have a desire to learn the ins and out of photography. Also, the definition of fun is very subjective and unique to each person.