Best video settings for Mavic Pro

[Houpla]

After extensive reading of posts claiming that you must set sharpness at +1 and others that it should be -1 to reduce noise etc I finally shot some tests in my studio with a color chart and a focus chart. I did not run all variations possible but limited my shots to 1080 and 2.7k as I output to 1080p most often and was looking for the best combo for that output. I feel there is no point in shooting 4K for 1080 output but I would consider 1080 as my edit system can easily handle it.

I brought various clips into DaVinci Resolve and auto balanced them using Color Rite chart and the auto grade system in Resolve. I was looking for noise, color accuracy, definition of details, color banding and overall look. This was somewhat of an intuitive judgement on my part and not necessarily completely scientific. I relied on my 30 years of shooting professionally as a cinematographer. I have shot everything from 35mm motion picture film to traditional video to Red cameras etc.

After a few hours of looking and playing my best overall result came from the following settings:

2.7k
D-Cinelike
Sharpness 0
Contrast 0
Saturation 0

These settings gave me the overall best, most usable picture with the least acceptable noise and the least amount of artifacts.

I shot the tests under tungsten light, WB tungsten, ISO 400 and shutter at 60. EV was -0.3

I also have to say that I got a very good result when shooting in AUTO. Obviously that is not realistic but interesting.

I hate to add to the confusion about settings but this is what I am going with.

 

[HueJorgan]

Those are my settings too
The sweet spot

 

[blacksheep]

I used to have sharpness 0 but fine detail often turns to mush so i use +1 and all is right with the world...

 

[Baldo81]

I'm using 4K D-log +1,0,+3
here some tests I run

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[quick_dry]

After extensive reading of posts claiming that you must set sharpness at +1 and others that it should be -1 to reduce noise etc I finally shot some tests in my studio with a color chart and a focus chart.

Awesome, I've been waiting for a test with focus charts, etc - every time I saw my own board covered in these I'd "I'll do that tomorrow".

Something I've wondered though, is whether using focus charts would be relatively undemanding in terms of the bitrate, whereas a tree or rock face presents a lot of information that the codec must toss in order to fit within the bitrate.

 

[Houpla]

I used to have sharpness 0 but fine detail often turns to mush so i use +1 and all is right with the world...

I personally find it much easier to add sharpness in post rather than try to fix anti aliasing, moire and noise. Much of this depends on how far you are from your subject. I can see a +1 sharpness in a situation where the scene does not naturally have much definition. I recently shot a scene in a forested area low to the ground with many trees and leaves. My sharpness was at +1 and the footage was unusable due to over sharpening of the many leaves and branches which all had a strong white sharpening outline. It would make sense if DJI could give us some finer adjustments like a +.25 or a +.5 sharpness. There is a huge jump from 0 to +1 or to -1 for that matter.

 

[Houpla]

Awesome, I've been waiting for a test with focus charts, etc - every time I saw my own board covered in these I'd "I'll do that tomorrow".

Something I've wondered though, is whether using focus charts would be relatively undemanding in terms of the bitrate, whereas a tree or rock face presents a lot of information that the codec must toss in order to fit within the bitrate.

I'm using 4K D-log +1,0,+3
here some tests I run

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I can't tell a thing with all the YouTube compression.

 

[Houpla]

2.7K 000 D Cinelike ISO 400

• Houpla
• May 26, 2017

1080 000 D Cinelike ISO 400

• Houpla
• May 26, 2017

I am posting two shots from my test. Same settings, one shot at 1080 and the other 2.7k downsized to 1080. Note the better sharpness in the text on the color chart in the 2.7k version, but also note the increased noise and compression artifacts in the green background. This is all a moving target . 2.7k comes with costs in certain areas of quality probably due to higher compression. 1080 has slightly lower definition.. Right now I am going to shoot some real world tests with both these settings at 1080 and downsized 2.7k. For me, giving up a bit of definition for an overall cleaner picture is better. I am leaning towards shooting at 1080p for a 1080p delivery.

 

[MrStark]

I plan on shooting a firework show and have no idea what setting would be good to use. Since I'm very new to this, I have no idea what setting(s) would be best. Also, if anyone would have any pointers on a good setting for bright conditions? I tend to have the image all flared up most of the time

 

[Riblit]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in the numerous threads about settings is that if one wants repeatable results one needs a calibrated monitor. Also what may look good on your monitor could look like crap on someone else's if their monitor settings are different to yours.

YouTube is far from the pinnacle of quality reproduction.

 

[Riblit]

I plan on shooting a firework show and have no idea what setting would be good to use. Since I'm very new to this, I have no idea what setting(s) would be best. Also, if anyone would have any pointers on a good setting for bright conditions? I tend to have the image all flared up most of the time

Think of what you are shooting. Mostly it will lights against a darkish background. You will need manual exposure as auto exposure will try and bring up the background, leading to over exposure of the fireworks. Remember a light meter is designed give you the correct exposure for a mid grey subject. ( An 18% grey card ). If the subject is darker the camera will over expose and if lighter it will under expose.

As for the "correct" exposure, it will depend on the amount of light from the fireworks and the distance you are from them.

 

[Houpla]

After extensive reading of posts claiming that you must set sharpness at +1 and others that it should be -1 to reduce noise etc I finally shot some tests in my studio with a color chart and a focus chart. I did not run all variations possible but limited my shots to 1080 and 2.7k as I output to 1080p most often and was looking for the best combo for that output. I feel there is no point in shooting 4K for 1080 output but I would consider 1080 as my edit system can easily handle it.

I brought various clips into DaVinci Resolve and auto balanced them using Color Rite chart and the auto grade system in Resolve. I was looking for noise, color accuracy, definition of details, color banding and overall look. This was somewhat of an intuitive judgement on my part and not necessarily completely scientific. I relied on my 30 years of shooting professionally as a cinematographer. I have shot everything from 35mm motion picture film to traditional video to Red cameras etc.

After a few hours of looking and playing my best overall result came from the following settings:

2.7k
D-Cinelike
Sharpness 0
Contrast 0
Saturation 0

These settings gave me the overall best, most usable picture with the least acceptable noise and the least amount of artifacts.

I shot the tests under tungsten light, WB tungsten, ISO 400 and shutter at 60. EV was -0.3

I also have to say that I got a very good result when shooting in AUTO. Obviously that is not realistic but interesting.

I hate to add to the confusion about settings but this is what I am going with.

I recently shot some footage at +1 sharpness and found that as long as the Magic was moving it looked good but once the image stopped and there was no more motion blur the sharpness kicked in and changed to look of the footage dramatically. If you are doing the typical flying shots at some altitude I don't even think the sharpness is working. For closer up and close to ground shots where you might be in tripod mode the slightest movement will create a distinctive abrupt sharpness change in the footage that renders it almost unusable. Be careful everyone using +1

 

[Mickeyboo]

A proper sharpness setting is contingent upon subject matter. If you use the same setting for a field of wheat (thin vehicle lines) and then on another flight shoot some clouds (broad not particularly sharp edges) I think your one setting for all will disappoint you on one of those two content examples. Think about the content which is most critical and adjust accordingly before you shoot. www.michaelkienitz.com