camera exposer settings

[Pyrate]

i changed my camera settings to manual. i noticed that when I fly into the sun I am overexposed. So I change the settings, then flying back with the sun at my back it then has to be changed again to compensate for the light change. Why not use the automatic settings - seems to fix this issue. But what do I know I am a rookie trying to learn.

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

Yes. Semi-auto (aperture or shutter priority) is best for a flying machine that's always changing it's orientation.

Manual is there for the controlled, single orientation scenario.

Full auto is there too, if you aren't interested in forcing specific aperture or shutter type of control (like always having a slower shutter speed for motion blur).

Chris

 

[Pyrate]

any suggestions for this- I have a professional fireworks show on the 4th that our association puts on every year. I would like to take a picture of it with boats and cabins in the background. Obviously, it will be at night- and multiple fireworks will be shot off at the same time. I do have my commercial license and have passed the night test too. I have about 3 weeks to repair;-)

 

[ultracat]

i changed my camera settings to manual. i noticed that when I fly into the sun I am overexposed. So I change the settings, then flying back with the sun at my back it then has to be changed again to compensate for the light change. Why not use the automatic settings - seems to fix this issue. But what do I know I am a rookie trying to learn.

Seems like every YouTube video you watch about how to get the best pics with your camera, they always say manual, manual, manual. I get that it gives you more control of how the camera takes your shots but all too often it results in pictures of lower quality than you would've gotten just leaving settings on full auto. To me, right now, while trying to learn to fly the drone just as much as wanting to get great pics and video, I delegate the camera settings to auto so I can just focus on finding good angles and flying smoothly. I have, however, set my format to RAW. That gives me the greatest leeway to get the auto shot looking like I want it in post-processing using Lightroom. But then other times, I focus less on flying and more on experimenting with various manual camera settings in different lighting conditions, take multiple shots and by comparing them, gradually learn which manual settings work best in specific scenarios. Through this albeit slow process, I am starting to understand what to expect from particular shutter and aperture alterations. When I sit back and think about how much knowledge and skill is required to simultaneously manipulate 'craft movement and change manual camera settings on the fly, it gives me a lot of respect for those experts out there that are managing to achieve those spectacular shots. It's not something anyone is going to learn to do well in a day, or even a week. But, with lots of practice, I think we'll eventually get there

 

[ultracat]

any suggestions for this- I have a professional fireworks show on the 4th that our association puts on every year. I would like to take a picture of it with boats and cabins in the background. Obviously, it will be at night- and multiple fireworks will be shot off at the same time. I do have my commercial license and have passed the night test too. I have about 3 weeks to repair;-)

This reference to a "night test", is that exclusively an American FAA requirement? I'm not seeing any reference to a similar formal qualification for Canadian drone flying. Is there one? As far as I know, if I get my bird outfitted with the appropriate strobe attachment(s), and am able to keep VLOS with it in the darkness, I am permitted to fly at night. Someone please let me know if this is not the case.

 

[Pyrate]

Here it is for part 107 in USA-​

New Drone Rules Take Effect Today-4/21​

–Final rules take effect today for remotely identifying drones and allowing operators of small drones to fly over people and at night under certain conditions.

The Operations Over People rule became effective on April 21, 2021. Drone pilots operating under Part 107 may fly at night, over people and moving vehicles without a waiver as long as they meet the requirements defined in the rule. Airspace authorizations are still required for night operations in controlled airspace under 400 feet.

 

[Cymruflyer]

Fireworks photography requires some skill to get it right. However, unlike other types of photography, you rarely get a chance to practice fireworks shots, since it happens so rarely. With a still camera you need a sturdy tripod and a longer shutter speed in order to see the tracks of light from the shooting firework. You also will need to play with aperture, to get the best exposure. So leave shutter speed slow and adjust exposure via the aperture. Don't have too high an ISO or the dark area of the sky will be too noisy. Also since a single one can be boring, it is best to combine several shots by layering, into one image to really make a sky look full.

All this is far more complicated when trying to capture the scene with a drone. You might trying setting up to get the correct exposure for the average firework (since some are super bright and others not too bright at all) and then shoot video and try to capture a screen shot/single frame later, to the shot you needed.

Unfortunately it is not possible to give a clip and clear answer because fireworks shows are different with some huge things going on and others just small not too bright events. And sadly, we can't say go out and practice because there is nothing to use o be able to practice. It all happens on the night and you will need to be ready to adjust on the fly. The finale will always be the best part to cover but will also be the brightest. Therefore you need to be ready to adjust quickly to get the best capture.

One very important point though, be sure you know the wind direction just prior to the start and DO NOT place yourself down wind or all you will get is smoke in the sky. Be sure to be upwind of the show.

 

[Dave Maine]

The biggest problem with auto exposure is that when the light changes, the auto exposure changes to compensate, but the change is quite abrupt, and very noticeable.

 

[Pyrate]

Fireworks photography requires some skill to get it right. However, unlike other types of photography, you rarely get a chance to practice fireworks shots, since it happens so rarely. With a still camera you need a sturdy tripod and a longer shutter speed in order to see the tracks of light from the shooting firework. You also will need to play with aperture, to get the best exposure. So leave shutter speed slow and adjust exposure via the aperture. Don't have too high an ISO or the dark area of the sky will be too noisy. Also since a single one can be boring, it is best to combine several shots by layering, into one image to really make a sky look full.

All this is far more complicated when trying to capture the scene with a drone. You might trying setting up to get the correct exposure for the average firework (since some are super bright and others not too bright at all) and then shoot video and try to capture a screen shot/single frame later, to the shot you needed.

Unfortunately it is not possible to give a clip and clear answer because fireworks shows are different with some huge things going on and others just small not too bright events. And sadly, we can't say go out and practice because there is nothing to use o be able to practice. It all happens on the night and you will need to be ready to adjust on the fly. The finale will always be the best part to cover but will also be the brightest. Therefore you need to be ready to adjust quickly to get the best capture.

One very important point though, be sure you know the wind direction just prior to the start and DO NOT place yourself down wind or all you will get is smoke in the sky. Be sure to be upwind of the show.

Thank you, i know it is going to be quite tricky!

 

[ultracat]

The biggest problem with auto exposure is that when the light changes, the auto exposure changes to compensate, but the change is quite abrupt, and very noticeable.

Yeah, it would be nice if there was a setting to adjust the auto-exposure correction speed, so we could slow it down to a point where it wouldn't completely compromise the video quality. Sort of like the Cinematic function but instead of the slower, gradual gimble movement, its the lighting that's smoothed out.