Does everyone use filters?

[Floridaflyer]

Can you show an example of what you are trying to describe?
If you mean moire, that's not something a filter can fix.

Can you show an example of what you are trying to describe?
If you mean moire, that's not something a filter can fix.

The filters cause what I described. Without them it doesn't do it, but the shitter speed has to go up, making video just a little shuttery. I like the filters for the smoothness, but they create that other problem. Almost like the glass is flawed. I've tried a few, polar pro was best, but still does it a little.

 

[Meta4]

The filters cause what I described

Just show an example because your description doesn't explain what the issue is.

 

[Floridaflyer]

Just show an example because your description doesn't explain what the issue is.

I tried to describe. I'm at work now, if I have time tonight I'll try to.

 

[MJW]

I'm just going to chime in here with an idea for a lens protector that one member stated he was using an ND for just to protect the camera, you might try a UV filter, they only block the UV and that's not in our visual light spectrum, so you won't be loosing any light you can see.

I just got my the CPL today and have some footage coming of a tree search for a lost mini, personally I liked the resolution and contrast.
I'll post a vid when the file gets edited.

Looking into shaded area's of the tree were a bit on the dark side but the view south over Seattle towards Rainier was grand.

 

[Barbara]

I'm just going to chime in here with an idea for a lens protector that one member stated he was using an ND for just to protect the camera, you might try a UV filter, they only block the UV and that's not in our visual light spectrum, so you won't be loosing any light you can see....

As far as I know, all of our DJI drones come with a protective glass filter over the leans. You have to remove it to put on your ND or CP filter. I don't know if the stock filter is considered a UV filter (ordinary uncoated glass only filters UVB radiation), but it's there to protect the camera lens and it is replaceable. So I don't understand why one would use either am ND or CP filter primarily as protection.

I bought UV filters for my SLR lenses primarily for the protection, as they usually have none and the lenses and their coatings are exposed.

 

[MJW]

On my recently purchased Air 2 it's an empty frame, no lens.
No, clear glass isn't a UV filter, a UV filter is coated to reflect the Suns damaging UV wavelengths.
I use them when solar viewing with an Ha scope.

 

[Barbara]

On my recently purchased Air 2 it's an empty frame, no lens.
No, clear glass isn't a UV filter, a UV filter is coated to reflect the Suns damaging UV wavelengths.
I use them when solar viewing with an Ha scope.

Ahhh, I see, I stand corrected. In this case you definitely want something to protect the lens.

 

[MJW]

I think it gave the Smart Controllers screen better contrast and detail, I was using the ND filter that came in the FlyMore kit as a lens protector, wasn't bad and the camera was on auto so it compensated for the darker view but detail was mushed, being an astronomer detail & resolution is an instinct.

 

[MJW]

I have a Hubsan 501 and for some reason bee's like it, I've seen them swarm other 501's, they come back covered front to rear with bee, and that stuff is very difficult to get off at times.

 

[Barbara]

I have a Hubsan 501 and for some reason bee's like it, I've seen them swarm other 501's, they come back covered front to rear with bee, and that stuff is very difficult to get off at times.

Ewww and ick. Had a few seaguls checkout my M2Z, but beyond that, nothinig really.

Were all the filters that came with the Flymore bundle ND filters?

 

[MJW]

yes, 16, 64, & 256

 

[Alex Baxter]

If you are shooting into the sun, say a sunset, at f/2.8, you may not have a fast enough shutter to keep detail in the sky. Put on an 8 or 16 stop filter and you can get the shot. The filter you need will be the one that lets you get the detail in the highlights while not having the shadows go black. Remember, it easier to pull detail out of underexposed shadows the overexposed highlights.

Ah yes, I'd assumed that you would be amongst us great unwashed that don't have, but would like to have a variable aperture. That makes perfect sense now.. I don't know what the fastest shutter speed is on the 2 Pro, (or whatever you're lucky enough to possess) I assume it's not fast enough to cope with the shots you're referring to at wider apertures.

 

[Fat Pappy]

Ah yes, I'd assumed that you would be amongst us great unwashed that don't have, but would like to have a variable aperture. That makes perfect sense now.. I don't know what the fastest shutter speed is on the 2 Pro, (or whatever you're lucky enough to possess) I assume it's not fast enough to cope with the shots you're referring to at wider apertures.

I have an Air 2. While I am new to aerial photography, I have been shooting regular photography with SLRs, DSLRs and now mirrorless gear since the early 1970s. good sunset shots have always required some sort of ND, graduated or otherwise, to keep the detail in the sky. When I bought my Air 2 combo pack, I also bought the other set of DJI ND filters that have the lower stop values. I plan on using NDs as needed.

Like you, I would prefer a variable aperture, However, getting into drones at this point, I decided to get a mid-range unit for now and learn to use it well. Then when the Category 2 drones come out with the better camera gear, assess my needs at that point.

 

[Meta4]

I don't know what the fastest shutter speed is on the 2 Pro, (or whatever you're lucky enough to possess) I assume it's not fast enough to cope with the shots you're referring to at wider apertures.

They all go up to 1/8000th.

 

[LakeTravis]

Seems like there are lots of posts I can read to better understand why to use filters for video.....
I’m wading through them

does everyone use filters for most video shooting?

Except for flying at twilight, I always use filters for my Mavic 2 Pro. I have the Polar Pro Cinematographers Collection - Cinema Series and they are fantastic, when used properly

 

[WaltBen]

I've far too bright a sun on most days to NOT use a filter. Even with one, I still get the diagonal lines on white objects (over exposure warning) on my controller/phone. On ND (neutral density) filters - those are almost clear and work well as a lens protector (from my past ancient history with 35mm).

 

[RicGPDX]

Hello Fat Pappy,
Maybe you could explain how that works, I thought there is enough range in shutter speed to cover any light condition, and ND filters would just slow it down a bit, so a HDR comprised of (say) 1/4000. 1/1000 and 1/500th second, would become 1/2000, 1/500 and 1/250th with a ND filter. I'm probably missing the point, but I'd really like to know..

NDs can be useful for other things as well. For instance, if you want to shoot a bracket of several shots to stack and make an HDR, you need to be able to get the detail in the sky as well as detail in the shadows. A ND might be required to get sky detail. There are other times they can be of value as well. If you are just taking snapshots, however, they are probably not a tool in the bag.

Actually, if you're going to bracket the exposure for a still, it would be best to do that with the onboard exposure control while you're hovering in the same location.

 

[Fat Pappy]

Actually, if you're going to bracket the exposure for a still, it would be best to do that with the onboard exposure control while you're hovering in the same location.

Yes, but if 1/8000 shutter still blows out the sky, you still need the ND.

 

[RicGPDX]

When I do a shoot involving both stills and video, I do the stills in one flight without a filter because I want to use the highest shutter speed that is practical at a reasonably low ISO. For video, the (180º) rule says that your shutter speed should be double your frame-rate. If I'm shooting at 60fps (like 1080p/60) the shutter speed would be 1/125, for 24 or 30fps, it would be 1/60. With my filter kit, that usually means an ND16 on a cloudy day, ND64 for average daylight, and ND256 (possibly) for sunlit snow or sand. Whatever it takes to get a reasonable shutter speed. I can usually calculate it from the exposure settings I'm seeing on the still shoot.

The bigger your sensor, the higher you can push the ISO, but it's usually best to use the lowest you can get away with.

 

[Deleted member 137163]

Yeah, I hear you. Having a fixed, wide open aperture is less than ideal, but that is what the Air 2 has. My options were to spend twice as much to get the 2 Pro with its f/2.8 to f/11 range or save half the price and spring for the ND filters. Given that it is my first drone and nothing is yet Cat 2 certified, I figured I would go with the Air 2, hone my flying skills and pop for the better camera drone when it is Cat 2 certified.

Ditto. My MA2 is only weeks old and I agree that I will add an Mavic Pro or similar in a year or so. Honing my flying skills and learning way more about photography in general will be my focus (pun accidentally intended). No sense having a more expense Mavic with better cameras if I do not have an in depth photography knowledge. Any suggestion on photography courses or YouTube? My focus (again with the pun) will be real estate still photography to start. When that is mastered I will deal with video. Let the learning begin! These discussions are hugely beneficial and much appreciated! I know similar discussion happen over time but fresh interaction is worth it.