Maybe instead of being all high and mighty about how good you are, maybe provide some insight for us less talented people about what settings etc should be used for sunset droning.. This is supposed to be a community, That means working together not capping on each other
The real world truth behind an ND filter is right in the name, "Neutral." They do not change the color saturation or contrast. They are simply sunglasses for the drone's camera. There is a finite range, within which you will achieve a perfect exposure. When a photo is taken outside of this range, it will either be overexposed or underexposed (period). Once an ND filter is applied to a camera with a fixed aperture (ie, Mavic) "something else" **has** to change to adjust the exposure to bring it back into that perfect and finite range of being perfectly (or nearly perfectly) exposed. The only other two variables that can change are, 1) slowing down the shutter speed, which will introduce more blur, or, 2) increasing the ISO, which will introduce more grain. OR - both. In which case the photographer has sacrificed all quality in the name of believing endless amateur discussions on this topic. This is not meant to be a "rip" on anyone. I believe since the advent of using ND filters on drones, there are more uneducated discussions taking place disseminating incorrect information, than ever - in the history of photography.
If your shooting video, from more than a hundred feet off the ground, ND filters are nearly useless, but I do use them in these situations. I am aware of the settings I want to achieve for either a photo or a video clip before I put a camera to my face, or a drone in the air, and take those steps to achieve my desired settings as I frame my shot.
ND filters are not a magic technology. They are simply telling the camera sensor (actually, they are telling the photographer) that the image is now underexposed, and that you must allow more light in to achieve a nearly perfect exposure, by either lowering the shutter speed or increasing the ISO - or both. That's it. Nothing else. If you had a variable aperture, you would then be able adjust that, by opening it up, to introduce greater depth of field (bokeh) into your photos, which is really one of the only two reasons to use an ND filter when shooting still photography. The other being, adding motion blur, via lowering the shutter speed, to introduce blur - of say a photo of moving water. If you were shooting a sporting event, or anything with fast motion, which would effect the camera's ability to keep your subject in focus, ND filters would destroy every shot.
Bracket exposures and merge them in post. Job done.
^^Exactly!
thanks for your snobby input sir.
As a musician, I laugh at the suggestion that there is a WRONG way.. LOL.
Like I said, last picture I share here.
As a musician of 43 years, I absolutely agree. I would never have been able to establish "my style" on the drums, if I had continued listening to several of my mentors, when I was young. But I needed the foundational fundamentals upon which to grow. I still practice drum rudiments as a part of maintaining my chops, and staying tight. By doing so, I have programmed various rhythms into my hands and brain, that continue to add to my abilities, while playing by my rules. So, while there may technically be no wrong way, there are foundations upon which a musician should build their skill set to help improve their style.
Read what I posted above, in my now epically endless rant
. There indeed are more wrong ways to take a photo than there are right ones.
