Agreed, I was just trying to help SFC117 (whom I quoted in my reply) specifically, not the OP. Perhaps you notice in the first sentence where I apologized about thread jacking?But it’s not a Timelapse, so fully irrelevant and convoluting the post
Agreed, I was just trying to help SFC117 (whom I quoted in my reply) specifically, not the OP. Perhaps you notice in the first sentence where I apologized about thread jacking?But it’s not a Timelapse, so fully irrelevant and convoluting the post
Off topic, and late, but I thought I'd post to help you a bit (sorry about thread jacking ianwood).
In time lapse (which is what a hyperlapse is), many things can cause flicker. Changing conditions, changing settings during the shooting, small aperture changes between photos, etc.... Most of these can be solved using software like LRTimelapse (which compensates for the changes between each shot. It is a REALLY excellent program).
However, one extra tip that I'll give here. You can introduce flicker also in editing. If you pull the photos into Lightroom and edit them before you put them into a video, make sure to never use Dehaze, Clarity, Texture, or Vibrance. Also, make sure to go easy on Whites/Blacks. The reason is these settings are not linear, meaning the same setting could affect two very similar (but still slightly different) images very differently. It is not a consistent effect. Therefore, adding say 20 dehaze to every image does NOT effect every image in the same way, as you would think. So stay away from those settings when editing any time lapse (including hyperlapses).
For best results on your time lapses, always set all the camera settings to manual for the drone after you get everything dialed in (meaning manual aperture, shutter speed, focus, etc...), then let the drone do its thing. Then when editing, dont use the settings I mentioned above. Then, if you still have a bit of flicker, use LRTimelapse to help.
Good luck!
I would have assumed that if you have “contacts at DJI”, you should need to spam at all outlets?
But if you are just checking if others have the same issue, then maybe be a bit clearer with your post.
Agreed, I was just trying to help SFC117 (whom I quoted in my reply) specifically, not the OP. Perhaps you notice in the first sentence where I apologized about thread jacking?
[iso: 100] [shutter: 1/50.0] [fnum: 4.0] [ev: -1.7] [ct: 5600] [color_md : default] [focal_len: 24.00] [latitude: 33.xxxxx] [longitude: -118.xxxxx] [rel_alt: 6.900 abs_alt: 19.268]
[iso: 100] [shutter: 1/50.0] [fnum: 5.0] [ev: -0.7] [ct: 5600] [color_md : default] [focal_len: 24.00] [latitude: 33.xxxxx] [longitude: -118.xxxxx] [rel_alt: -12.700 abs_alt: -0.332]
And another. This is bad news. Maybe something broke in the new firmware? I would have noticed this before now. It's almost like it's on auto WB (it's not) but not entirely. It's more like the red channel is being desaturated.
View attachment 151814
Again, confirming WB was 5600 the whole time:
Code:[iso: 100] [shutter: 1/50.0] [fnum: 5.0] [ev: -0.7] [ct: 5600] [color_md : default] [focal_len: 24.00] [latitude: 33.xxxxx] [longitude: -118.xxxxx] [rel_alt: -12.700 abs_alt: -0.332]
Hmmm I never had this issue with my mavic 2 pro. Now with the Mavic 3 its really annoying. I think the I've heard problem is also happening with the Mini 3 pro (but have not had the chance to test that yet) Could it be an app (software related) problem? ie The DJI Fly (Mavic 3) vs DJI GO 4 (Mavic 2 pro)Flicker is a common issue in hyperlapse but it is perfectly normal and unrelated to the issue I have reported. The reason this happens in hyperlapse is simply that the light changes between exposures. If you look at hyperlapse workflows, you'll see there are workarounds to mitigate the impact.
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