I was wrong, my Mavic Air sucks.

[Gavriel]

I can confirm the reinstall of DJI Go4. I just tried to update my P4 and fought it for a day until I found a thread recommending that I delete the app and reinstall it. I figured it was a waste of time but it worked! FYI - the thread I found said to delete the app, reboot your device, reinstall the app, turn off the drone and the controller, reboot and try it again. Be sure to reboot your device after you delete the app.

for company like DJI giving this advise to someone AFTER a fly away, not good advise if you ask me...its more like erase the evidence showing it was their fault, but you know how it is, where there is money to be made there is corruption.

 

[Air Beetle]

Uh no, rebooting your device (ipad, android, etc) does not erase any "evidence". As far as I know, the history log stored in the drone cannot be erased ever. Think about it, that would work against DJI in claims! I could fly my drone for weeks, crashing it repeatedly until it's toast and then erase the log and claim I only hovered it once. Take off your tinfoil hat.

It is your responsibility to keep the firmware up to date. Some ignore updates and let the red blinking go on forever.

 

[Spy_Corfu]

Video looks awful. Are you sure you don't have a fingerprint on the lens? You did peel the sticker off?

Just got mine, charging it just now so no video tests yet.
Did not notice any stickers in front of the camera lens though.. do you mean the gimbal protection which should be removed of course before powering on the air?

 

[Gavriel]

Uh no, rebooting your device (ipad, android, etc) does not erase any "evidence". As far as I know, the history log stored in the drone cannot be erased ever. Think about it, that would work against DJI in claims! I could fly my drone for weeks, crashing it repeatedly until it's toast and then erase the log and claim I only hovered it once. Take off your tinfoil hat.

It is your responsibility to keep the firmware up to date. Some ignore updates and let the red blinking go on forever.

if the drone flew away because of a wifi glitch due to firmware the black box on the drone shows nothing., i was talking about the data of drone and remote stored on the dji app, dji does not disclose all the details they see., these are un fair practices as they clearly have an invested interest in after sales profiting.

-Your drone crashes due to remote firmware glitch dji will charge you for repairing the drone.
-Your drone flys away due to remote firmware glitch dji will look at the remote if at all, fix it, tell you there was nothing wrong and charge you for their time.

These are un fair after sales consumer practices actually holding back the technology instead of advancing it.

 

[Air Beetle]

I give up. The data is stored in the drone. Simple as that.

 

[Gavriel]

I give up. The data is stored in the drone. Simple as that.

Sorry but its incorrect, the data is on both drone and djigo app, the drone has a blackbox while the data on the app also records the flight records....get it?

how did you think people got flight data records for fly away drone incidents?
In fly away incidents when no wrong doing is on the pilot DJI's response is that if they find anything wrong they would advise the pilot, but if its their responsibility due to poor firmware or glitchs they will response as if they can not explain why something happened and pretend that the remote and dji go app do not contain that data when its not the case.

 

[Air Beetle]

ok, one more try. We are talking about a software lockup during a firmware upgrade where the controller and your drone are sitting on your coffee table.

If it is stored in both, then what is your problem? We are not talking about deleting the app after a fly a way. You are making up a scenario that will never happen. If my drone flys away, why would i be deleting the app? No reason to upgrade the firm ware either.

I am trying to help a guy complete his update and you are pooping conspiracy crap. stop.

 

[Gavriel]

nope

ok, one more try. We are talking about a software lockup during a firmware upgrade where the controller and your drone are sitting on your coffee table.

If it is stored in both, then what is your problem?
I am trying to help a guy complete his update and you are pooping conspiracy crap. stop.

im only correcting your claims that its stored only on the drone...
there are details which need to be considered dealing with DJI after sales, stop pooping on anyone advising others to be diligent...btw you are correct that no firmware needs to be updated though.

 

[don26812]

I only watched the first video you posted, but when then one immediately brightened up, it appeared the you were in a mode that when you turn the right knurled knob you adjust the EV setting. FWIW.

You obviously have done other testing and know that is note the case.

 

[zwt100]

Maybe this thread is making me paranoid but I feel like I'm having similar issues when I take photos with my new MA. I traded in my Spark for the Air and in my opinion the photos from the Spark look much better. The first one is from the MA and it looks dark and washed out to me while the second is from the Spark and looks colorful and clear. Can anyone please help? I am a novice so maybe I just need to adjust the settings. I realize the weather could have an effect on it too.

Thanks!

 

[guest281]

I think that is a great idea (returning it). I received mine and the footage and shots are fine. I did have a gimbal drift issue, however, but it seems to have disappeared after upgrading the firmware. So far, so good...initially I had a Spark.

 

[Splats]

Maybe this thread is making me paranoid but I feel like I'm having similar issues when I take photos with my new MA. I traded in my Spark for the Air and in my opinion the photos from the Spark look much better. The first one is from the MA and it looks dark and washed out to me while the second is from the Spark and looks colorful and clear. Can anyone please help? I am a novice so maybe I just need to adjust the settings. I realize the weather could have an effect on it too.

Thanks!

The picture from the MA just needs processed. Assuming you have the RAW copy you should be able to process it quickly and easily to produce a result that's far better than the Spark image. There is evidence of watercolour effect in both images though, kind of hoped this would be all but gone with the MA but I guess not.

 

[zwt100]

The picture from the MA just needs processed. Assuming you have the RAW copy you should be able to process it quickly and easily to produce a result that's far better than the Spark image. There is evidence of watercolour effect in both images though, kind of hoped this would be all but gone with the MA but I guess not.

Thanks! Do you recommend any particular software for processing? Any tips? Sorry for all the questions- plan on watching some tutorials later tonight

 

[Lon Denard]

I give up. The data is stored in the drone. Simple as that.

You're wasting your time... I really wish some of these people would stop buying DJI products if they hate DJI so much. Leave all of us "fanboys" to our delusions and move on to one of the many other comparable drone manufacturers.

 

[Cliff_622]

I was initially very sweet on my Mavic Air. I don't know if it's the firmware update, or if I have a defective Mavic Air. All the footage is super dark, or blown out. It will take another 2 hours to upload the clips to dropbox but it's extremely disappointing. I did 4 flights now and it seems to be getting worse.

Here's a youtube of my first video. Jump to 49 seconds to see. I have the settings right. Any ideas? Did I get a defective drone? Video of the blow outs will be included when the are finished uploading.

Some of this is auto white balance, but I assure you in the other videos (which are taking forever to upload) you'll see what appears to be issues:

Are your CONTRAST and SATURATION settings turned way up??

 

[Lon Denard]

Are your CONTRAST and SATURATION settings turned way up??

I was wondering if he tried setting the camera back to default.

 

[Splats]

Thanks! Do you recommend any particular software for processing? Any tips? Sorry for all the questions- plan on watching some tutorials later tonight

I use Lightroom because I pay a £10 a month to have full access to Lightroom and Photoshop. There are plenty of pieces of software (some free) that will work on RAW files. Watching a few tutorials will be helpful and I suggest you start by learning about and understanding how to read a histogram. That way you'll understand how much you can push highlights and shadows before running into trouble. A RAW file will be flat with limited dynamic range and contrast. Assuming your exposure is correct (and you can adjust if not) you usually start by pushing out the highlights and lowering the shadows to add a greater depth to the image. An image with greater contrast is usually more interesting and pleasing to look at.

Next you play with the saturation to make the colours pop. This is a very subjective area because you'll notice you can very quickly and easily make your scene far more colourful than it was in reality (i.e. more green at autumn/winter, etc). I used to aim to make my pictures a realistic representation of what I saw. However, I've since changed that view and I now treat photos and video more like a memory. A memory is usually quite vivid and often imprinted with the emotion you felt at the time which exaggerates the image in your mind. Accordingly, in most cases you'll remember something as more colourful and interesting than it really was and, for that reason, I tend to pump saturation up a little beyond what was real on the day. However, it can work the other way; for example, you might remember the scene as being bitterly cold and overcast in which case you might lower saturation or even go for a B&W picture to create the mood.

It's totally personal choice, but generally, when I view a picture I want it to convey the strongest emotion or sense that I felt at the time.

 

[ScubaBob]

I didn't see a lot wrong with the videos. Sorry. Maybe my eyes are old but since I am professional underwater photographer I think I still have decent eyes. At least they were OK this morning when I was diving. Here are my thoughts. 1. When rotating the drone you cannot expect the camera to instantly adjust to changes in the scene as quickly as you can rotate the drone. You need to allow a second or two (or three) for the camera to reassess the scene and adjust. 2. On several of your videos you rotated the drone past the sun and then you wonder why your images are not sharp. The same thing happens to your eye pupil when you look at a light or the sun and then look at a dark area or if you are outside and go into a dark room. Your pupil, like the aperture on the camera, is contracted because of the bright light and you need to give it a few seconds to adjust. 3. Some of you photos were of houses with white garage doors. Those doors play havoc on camera sensors because they beam out a huge amount of white light and, therefore, other objects are darkened because the sensor is getting bombarded by the white garage door or white roof. Filters can help or when you are taking a photo or video adjust the brightness / darkness so that the parts you want to come out are appropriately lit. A white garage door, if overexposed, will still be a white garage door. Kicking up the exposure (by adjusting the ISO, etc.) can also help. You are doing the right thing. Practice, practice and practice some more. The camera is not a Nikon or Sony $5,000 camera. It is a relatively inexpensive, compact camera that is probably not worth more than $300. You can't expect Ansel Adams quality photos from your drone but you can still make some spectacular photos or videos if you practice and learn how to use the various camera settings. I am shooting videos tomorrow for a dive shop in Cancun. I spent 2 batteries today shooting practice videos over the water at the same time of day that I will be shooting tomorrow so that I could look at what I got and make adjustments so that tomorrow's shots are A+. Practice makes near perfect. Good luck.

 

[ScubaBob]

I use Lightroom because I pay a £10 a month to have full access to Lightroom and Photoshop. There are plenty of pieces of software (some free) that will work on RAW files. Watching a few tutorials will be helpful and I suggest you start by learning about and understanding how to read a histogram. That way you'll understand how much you can push highlights and shadows before running into trouble. A RAW file will be flat with limited dynamic range and contrast. Assuming your exposure is correct (and you can adjust if not) you usually start by pushing out the highlights and lowering the shadows to add a greater depth to the image. An image with greater contrast is usually more interesting and pleasing to look at.

Next you play with the saturation to make the colours pop. This is a very subjective area because you'll notice you can very quickly and easily make your scene far more colourful than it was in reality (i.e. more green at autumn/winter, etc). I used to aim to make my pictures a realistic representation of what I saw. However, I've since changed that view and I now treat photos and video more like a memory. A memory is usually quite vivid and often imprinted with the emotion you felt at the time which exaggerates the image in your mind. Accordingly, in most cases you'll remember something as more colourful and interesting than it really was and, for that reason, I tend to pump saturation up a little beyond what was real on the day. However, it can work the other way; for example, you might remember the scene as being bitterly cold and overcast in which case you might lower saturation or even go for a B&W picture to create the mood.

It's totally personal choice, but generally, when I view a picture I want it to convey the strongest emotion or sense that I felt at the time.

EXCELLENT posting. If you want to shoot great snapshots, learn to shoot in RAW and learn to use Adobe's Lightroom to post-process your images. You will be amazed at what you can do with an under or overexposed image using Lightroom if you shoot in Raw.

 

[zwt100]

Thank you so much, I really appreciate the information. I’ll start with learning the histogram and take it from there. Excited to get started.