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Learning to take photos

Anjulis

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This is my first drone and I am just learning how to take photos and videos with it. So far, results are disappointing. Taking photos: settings are on Auto, all faces are overexposed, even though, the rest of the photo is not that bad. Is there anything I should do, other than go to a manual and set the exposure each time?
Also, there doesn't seem to be much zoom, is that right? Tried to photograph wildlife, cannot do it from afar and it gets scared when I fly closer

I would appreciate any advice on how to start making better photos

 
This is my first drone and I am just learning how to take photos and videos with it. So far, results are disappointing. Taking photos: settings are on Auto, all faces are overexposed, even though, the rest of the photo is not that bad. Is there anything I should do, other than go to a manual and set the exposure each time?
Also, there doesn't seem to be much zoom, is that right? Tried to photograph wildlife, cannot do it from afar and it gets scared when I fly closer

I would appreciate any advice on how to start making better photos

It won't let me see the photos tells me I don't have permission to view the album
 
The only real zoom you will get is digital zoom in post. The best way is to just fly closer to the subject to avoid any resolution loss.

I can't see the photos you've linked but I would experiment with all camera settings such a HDR shots, camera profile colours/sharpness etc. Also it will need some work in post editing - lightrooms for example
 
If you are not comfortable using manual, you can keep the settings on auto and use the EV adjustment at the bottom to change the exposure. If faces are over exposed, try setting it to around -0.3
 
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You need to learn how to use the histogram and/or zebras to not get over exposure. That and use of the EV bias wheel if you're using auto. Also make sure you're shooting RAW (DNG) so any minor exposure mistakes can be corrected in software.

I'd STRONGLY recommend a generic photography introduction so you can at least familiarise yourself with what a shutter speed, aperture and ISO is before flying so then you'll have an idea of what will and wont work. Without that you'll just be guessing.
There are loads of websites that detail this.

Also, there is no zoom, the mavic is a fixed aperture, fixed focal length fairly wide lens.
 
You need to learn how to use the histogram and/or zebras to not get over exposure. That and use of the EV bias wheel if you're using auto.

I think you just answered my question. The problem was not about photography knowledge but about knowledge of mavic controls. As I said it is my first drone. I did not know that the right wheel controlled EV (not ISO? Some posts say it is ISO). It is very likely that I moved the right wheel instead of left when trying to tilt the camera.

Not sure I understand about using histogram while shooting. Where can I do it? Or you meant about later processing?
 
DJI document DJI go 4 terribly (and the wheel is part of it). In auto exposure mode the dial will adjust the EV bias, in manual exposure mode it'll adjust shutterspeed.
People moving the right wheel by accident is the main cause of complaints of over exposure - its always worth checking EV is 0 on the RC.

Histogram you use while shooting. Its a live view of the image exposure so you can adjust pre shot before you ruin an image or video with an incorrect exposure. Its that or use the "zebra" exposure peaking.
 
Several pilots have suggested that they get better photos using ND filters. I also use a Circular Polarizer filter. Having tried both, I think the CP provides better photos.
 
Also, there is no zoom, the mavic is a fixed aperture, fixed focal length fairly wide lens.
In the olden days before zoom lenses you had to zoom with your feet to adjust the distance between the camera and the subject. The Mavic is a photographer's dream as you can just fly nearer or further away to frame your shot. Digital zoom is a waste of time IMHO.
 
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People moving the right wheel by accident is the main cause of complaints of over exposure - its always worth checking EV is 0 on the RC.

Histogram you use while shooting. Its a live view of the image exposure so you can adjust pre shot before you ruin an image or video with an incorrect exposure. Its that or use the "zebra" exposure peaking.
Excellent advice. I had a habit of moving the right wheel by accident when I first started. Fortunately I knew photography well enough to realise that I had managed to change a setting and didn't have a faulty camera on my drone.
 
As noted previously, digital zoom gives you nothing that you can't accomplish in post-processing. The term should be banned!
 
Several pilots have suggested that they get better photos using ND filters. I also use a Circular Polarizer filter. Having tried both, I think the CP provides better photos.

ND filters will do absolutely nothing to improve photos. At best they'll do nothing, at worst, they'll degrade the image through blur and/or noise.
The only people suggesting they get better photos using ND filters are people that don't understand what an ND filter is or does.
99% of people with PLs dont understand them, know how to use them, how to set them up or the very precise shooting angles they require either.

As noted previously, digital zoom gives you nothing that you can't accomplish in post-processing. The term should be banned!

Well the mavic "zoom" isn't even that - its a crop. It simply crops the 4k image down to a lower res when filming in something less than 4k. No quality loss but mis-named and nothing you cant achieve in post with far better results.
 
ND filters will do absolutely nothing to improve photos. At best they'll do nothing, at worst, they'll degrade the image through blur and/or noise.
The only people suggesting they get better photos using ND filters are people that don't understand what an ND filter is or does.
99% of people with PLs dont understand them, know how to use them, how to set them up or the very precise shooting angles they require either.



Well the mavic "zoom" isn't even that - its a crop. It simply crops the 4k image down to a lower res when filming in something less than 4k. No quality loss but mis-named and nothing you cant achieve in post with far better results.

I said some pilots have suggested that they get better photos with ND filters. That's all I said. I stand by the statement.
 
ND filters will do absolutely nothing to improve photos. At best they'll do nothing, at worst, they'll degrade the image through blur and/or noise.
The only people suggesting they get better photos using ND filters are people that don't understand what an ND filter is or does.
99% of people with PLs dont understand them, know how to use them, how to set them up or the very precise shooting angles they require either.

Beg to differ. There are so many factors involved. Yes, crappy filters with crappy glass will degrade your photos. Good filters on the other hand can improve your photos. I originally started as a photographer, so yes I do understand what an ND, and CPL filter is, it's purpose, and when to use them and when not to use them. I will admit that I do try and stay away from them when shooting only photos with the Mavic, but certain instances still call for it.

Just don't impose your "if you aren't doing it my way it's wrong" style of answers. I think each person is looking for what works best for them and asking for advice. Let's try and give constructive answers so we can all benefit from each persons knowledge and experience.
 
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Just don't impose your "if you aren't doing it my way it's wrong" style of answers. .

Other than with ND filters it *IS* wrong. They exist solely to produce motion blur (ie blurred images) on videos. The mavic isnt stable enough and filters aren't strong enough for the misty, blurred water effects so forget it. An ND filter is at best do nothing if its a static scene, if theres movement it'll blur the image or force the ISO up creating noise. On the mavic, ND filters are for video only, they have no useful purpose what-so-ever for stills.

Unless of course the goal is to produce unsharp, blurred, grainy photos, in which case well done - although you could do it cheaper by just buying a 10 year old mobile phone.
 
I said some pilots have suggested that they get better photos with ND filters. That's all I said. I stand by the statement.

The statement is correct, some drone operators do claim they get better photos. However, they're wrong and don't understand ND filters.
 
Other than with ND filters it *IS* wrong. They exist solely to produce motion blur (ie blurred images) on videos. The mavic isnt stable enough and filters aren't strong enough for the misty, blurred water effects so forget it. An ND filter is at best do nothing if its a static scene, if theres movement it'll blur the image or force the ISO up creating noise. On the mavic, ND filters are for video only, they have no useful purpose what-so-ever for stills.

I think that maybe you missed a big point of this. Perhaps just saying it in a different tone would have been better. We are all here trying to learn and share. Putting out the "you're wrong, I'm right" attitude doesn't help. Take a look at the world of photography. Many "rules of photography" are constantly broken and produce fantastic photos.
I think people rely so much on post production these days that the point of trying to get the shot right from the camera isn't even a thought anymore. I can agree that ND filters are not necessary (I even stated that I try to stay away from them), but to say that they worsen your shot is untrue (while it can be true, it isn't always true). I'm not ever going to put a ND32 on any shot that I am taking. But there are many shots that can benefit from an ND4 or 8 without introducing motion blur.


My point is that there are always variables, styles, etc. and to flat out say "However, they're wrong and don't understand ND filters" is being arrogant and isn't helping anyone.
 
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