Let’s do a Mod Mavic Pilots

[Former Member]

What are you looking to achieve?

45 minutes of straight flight time. It helps for people in multiple disciplines such as search and rescue, etc who dont want to have to take 5 or 10 minutes to come back, land, and change batteries only to have to go back out to the same spot. Its like a fishing boat with a small gas tank. Better get a bigger gas tank so you can stay out longer, and not have to shuttle back and forth to refuel.

 

[Texas Mavic]

Pending the test I am about to do.... I have a XT60 Connection right off the + and - of the battery from a Mavic Pro battery. Bypassing the board. Adjusted battery parameters in Assistant. With a piece of foam in between the two batteries to absorb some heat. Not the best looking but will work for the test. My guess is 35 minutes. Stay tuned, I’m going to give it a whirl.

 

[Texas Mavic]

So....interesting finding. I had a bad solder joint on my XT60 connector. I did a hover test with a payload essentially. The extra battery was not connected. However I got 30 minute flight time from a single stock DJI battery. Obviously because I took the return to home voltage away. I did get a little hot temperature wise. I wouldn’t advise this to try to get 30 minutes out of the Mavic. I would absolutely push it to the DJI claim of 27 minutes. Just fixed the XT60 connector and may get out to test again. Although it late lol.... but I have to get a definitive answer.

 

[Texas Mavic]

Interesting.

 

[Aikidoamigo]

45 minutes of straight flight time. Better get a bigger gas tank so you can stay out longer, and not have to shuttle back and forth to refuel.

You wonder why DJI couldn’t just mount the new multi charger and in some way reverse it then, if it charges one battery after another I’m sure they could figure for them to discharge one after another from such a cradle. Does seem strange that they are restricting the design to just one battery of longer flight times would be more popular.
Mind you, with VLOS at all times being required then we don’t want folks flying drones 10+ miles away from the operator, now do we ?

 

[iowahill]

Interesting, 45 minutes out of 2 1300’s.

That's with full charge on the MP1 and 1300's, give or take depending on flight operation, winds, etc.

 

[Texas Mavic]

2nd Battery read 11.4 volts after flight. So my sub par solder joint explains why the voltage would jump during the test. Up, down, up, down. Wiring was shotty. Round 2 this evening.

 

[Texas Mavic]

That's with full charge on the MP1 and 1300's, give or take depending on flight operation, winds, etc.

I had a theory that lower mahs would give longer flight time. But I would think it would have to be a higher Discharge battery, like 1500mah 30C. What’s the discharge on the 1300’s?

 

[Texas Mavic]

Anything over 30 minutes starts to cook the Mavic Battery. I am going with @Thunderdrones. Dual mounted monsters, no Mavic battery.

 

[Texas Mavic]

That's with full charge on the MP1 and 1300's, give or take depending on flight operation, winds, etc.

I really really would hate to waste the money on these batteries, then get 30 minutes. Not to be completely smug, but if getting 45 minutes was as easy as throwing two sideboard 1300’s, everyone that’s done the experiment would scream it from the rooftops. I use two 2000mah batteries and get 27 minutes in hover. They are 10C. Please if you have the time, post some screenshots of voltage readings so we can all give the 1300’s a whirl. Thanks!
-Jake

 

[GSE D Land]

Hi
Good luck with your mod. I did a Pro with 2 batteries in top of each other myself. I removed the casing for both batteries and my main one with the "smart board" weighted in at 217 g and the "backpack" 213g, some padding added. The bare cells weight 60 grams each. I obtained 15 to 20 km range depending on conditions. But I don`t like to run the batteries all the way down. I would say "safe" is a 13-15 km flight with which I was a bit disappointed. I was hopping for a 18 to 20 km with 15-30% left on return. My total setup weight in at 925 g. The XT 60 connectors and cables add a bit of weight to.

The Mavic Pro has a design flaw which does not work well with added weight. The magnetic field generated by the back motors supplying cables may interfere with the GPS/compass unit located in the back much to close. As we can see with Mavic 2, the unit was moved in the centre of the aircraft.
.
Warning! Your modded Mavic generates higher magnetic fields! Danger of unespected ATTI mode anytime!

From my experience (if you want to go ahead) what I suggest:
-use only low noise propellers, not for less noise but they spin slower for the same given weight.
-do not fly the setup in sport mode unless you are in LOS.
-definitely do not tweak the Mavic for extra speed (tilt angle and vertical up speed).
-If you get "remote high interference" messages, it has noting to do with the remote but with the high current in the motor supplying cables. Reduce speeds!
-re-solder the supplying cables and get ferrite cores on them. This help with the concentration of the magnetic field. Ensure the 3 cables supplying the back motors are twisted around each other (this reduces magnetic interference)-plenty of references on the net about twisted cables. later supplied Mavics had the twisting done in the factory.
-compare (from dat logs) motors PWM and ESC temps of the standard mavic with your setup.
Dangers are PWM close to 100% and much hotter ESC temps than standard setup.

Other things to consider:
Your mavic is less aerodynamic and the batteries are warming less (cold weather flying warning).
Your mavic is more noisy.
If you fly out of range missions you are at risk of losing it due to the unit switching itself to ATTI mode when out of reach. This can happen randomly. Is no rule there but you can help by avoiding high mission speeds and very close to each other waypoints with high altitude differences and headings at 180 degrees from each other. Avoid high winds. If you have Phantom experience remember the Mavic is much more affected by wind.
Also ESC`s are heating more, the motors are stressed more.

I would say the safe weight for a Pro is under 800 G.

I did not made it myself (yet) but I suggest a battery made of six LG 18650 (3ooo mah each ) about 41 g each.
So you end up with up to 6000 mah per cell for a minimal weight increase, your battery should weight in under 300g. Best are Panasonics at 3400 mah but a bit heavier. if you need help with this have a look on the net or ask.
Do not buy any cheap chinese, no brand batteries who claim over 3400 mah!
Do not buy batteries with self protection!

But if range is really your thing why do not consider fixed wing (especially flying wing)?
A drone is a flying rock where a flying wing generates lift with all of its body with minimal drag.

 

[lolo780]

Except for vertical climbs, top mounting the battery pack is the worst thing you can do for distance flying due to terrible aerodynamics.

Bottom mounted 3s2p is the best setup for the M1.

 

[Texas Mavic]

Hi
Good luck with your mod. I did a Pro with 2 batteries in top of each other myself. I removed the casing for both batteries and my main one with the "smart board" weighted in at 217 g and the "backpack" 213g, some padding added. The bare cells weight 60 grams each. I obtained 15 to 20 km range depending on conditions. But I don`t like to run the batteries all the way down. I would say "safe" is a 13-15 km flight with which I was a bit disappointed. I was hopping for a 18 to 20 km with 15-30% left on return. My total setup weight in at 925 g. The XT 60 connectors and cables add a bit of weight to.

The Mavic Pro has a design flaw which does not work well with added weight. The magnetic field generated by the back motors supplying cables may interfere with the GPS/compass unit located in the back much to close. As we can see with Mavic 2, the unit was moved in the centre of the aircraft.
.
Warning! Your modded Mavic generates higher magnetic fields! Danger of unespected ATTI mode anytime!

From my experience (if you want to go ahead) what I suggest:
-use only low noise propellers, not for less noise but they spin slower for the same given weight.
-do not fly the setup in sport mode unless you are in LOS.
-definitely do not tweak the Mavic for extra speed (tilt angle and vertical up speed).
-If you get "remote high interference" messages, it has noting to do with the remote but with the high current in the motor supplying cables. Reduce speeds!
-re-solder the supplying cables and get ferrite cores on them. This help with the concentration of the magnetic field. Ensure the 3 cables supplying the back motors are twisted around each other (this reduces magnetic interference)-plenty of references on the net about twisted cables. later supplied Mavics had the twisting done in the factory.
-compare (from dat logs) motors PWM and ESC temps of the standard mavic with your setup.
Dangers are PWM close to 100% and much hotter ESC temps than standard setup.

Other things to consider:
Your mavic is less aerodynamic and the batteries are warming less (cold weather flying warning).
Your mavic is more noisy.
If you fly out of range missions you are at risk of losing it due to the unit switching itself to ATTI mode when out of reach. This can happen randomly. Is no rule there but you can help by avoiding high mission speeds and very close to each other waypoints with high altitude differences and headings at 180 degrees from each other. Avoid high winds. If you have Phantom experience remember the Mavic is much more affected by wind.
Also ESC`s are heating more, the motors are stressed more.

I would say the safe weight for a Pro is under 800 G.

I did not made it myself (yet) but I suggest a battery made of six LG 18650 (3ooo mah each ) about 41 g each.
So you end up with up to 6000 mah per cell for a minimal weight increase, your battery should weight in under 300g. Best are Panasonics at 3400 mah but a bit heavier. if you need help with this have a look on the net or ask.
Do not buy any cheap chinese, no brand batteries who claim over 3400 mah!
Do not buy batteries with self protection!

But if range is really your thing why do not consider fixed wing (especially flying wing)?
A drone is a flying rock where a flying wing generates lift with all of its body with minimal drag.

Lots of great information, at work and will need to read over and respond shortly. Thanks!!!

 

[Texas Mavic]

Except for vertical climbs, top mounting the battery pack is the worst thing you can do for distance flying due to terrible aerodynamics.

Bottom mounted 3s2p is the best setup for the M1.

Dual side mounted.... I have never seen nor heard of a bottom mounted Mavic Pro battery mod. But if it works, I will try it. Bottom mounted Magic outboard batteries?

 

[lolo780]

Bottom mount keeps the batteries in the aero wake when flying forward. Side mount creates drag due to increased frontal area plus catches downwash from the props.

Dual side mounted.... I have never seen nor heard of a bottom mounted Mavic Pro battery mod. But if it works, I will try it. Bottom mounted Magic outboard batteries?

 

[Texas Mavic]

Indeed the downwash from props is an issue. Do you have any pictures or video of bottom mount? I can’t find anything.

 

[Texas Mavic]

Hi
Good luck with your mod. I did a Pro with 2 batteries in top of each other myself. I removed the casing for both batteries and my main one with the "smart board" weighted in at 217 g and the "backpack" 213g, some padding added. The bare cells weight 60 grams each. I obtained 15 to 20 km range depending on conditions. But I don`t like to run the batteries all the way down. I would say "safe" is a 13-15 km flight with which I was a bit disappointed. I was hopping for a 18 to 20 km with 15-30% left on return. My total setup weight in at 925 g. The XT 60 connectors and cables add a bit of weight to.

The Mavic Pro has a design flaw which does not work well with added weight. The magnetic field generated by the back motors supplying cables may interfere with the GPS/compass unit located in the back much to close. As we can see with Mavic 2, the unit was moved in the centre of the aircraft.
.
Warning! Your modded Mavic generates higher magnetic fields! Danger of unespected ATTI mode anytime!

From my experience (if you want to go ahead) what I suggest:
-use only low noise propellers, not for less noise but they spin slower for the same given weight.
-do not fly the setup in sport mode unless you are in LOS.
-definitely do not tweak the Mavic for extra speed (tilt angle and vertical up speed).
-If you get "remote high interference" messages, it has noting to do with the remote but with the high current in the motor supplying cables. Reduce speeds!
-re-solder the supplying cables and get ferrite cores on them. This help with the concentration of the magnetic field. Ensure the 3 cables supplying the back motors are twisted around each other (this reduces magnetic interference)-plenty of references on the net about twisted cables. later supplied Mavics had the twisting done in the factory.
-compare (from dat logs) motors PWM and ESC temps of the standard mavic with your setup.
Dangers are PWM close to 100% and much hotter ESC temps than standard setup.

Other things to consider:
Your mavic is less aerodynamic and the batteries are warming less (cold weather flying warning).
Your mavic is more noisy.
If you fly out of range missions you are at risk of losing it due to the unit switching itself to ATTI mode when out of reach. This can happen randomly. Is no rule there but you can help by avoiding high mission speeds and very close to each other waypoints with high altitude differences and headings at 180 degrees from each other. Avoid high winds. If you have Phantom experience remember the Mavic is much more affected by wind.
Also ESC`s are heating more, the motors are stressed more.

I would say the safe weight for a Pro is under 800 G.

I did not made it myself (yet) but I suggest a battery made of six LG 18650 (3ooo mah each ) about 41 g each.
So you end up with up to 6000 mah per cell for a minimal weight increase, your battery should weight in under 300g. Best are Panasonics at 3400 mah but a bit heavier. if you need help with this have a look on the net or ask.
Do not buy any cheap chinese, no brand batteries who claim over 3400 mah!
Do not buy batteries with self protection!

But if range is really your thing why do not consider fixed wing (especially flying wing)?
A drone is a flying rock where a flying wing generates lift with all of its body with minimal drag.

800grams!!! No wonder you had so many errors!!

 

[GSE D Land]

ok...you talk I listen
working on a bottom placed battery...

 

[Texas Mavic]

@MavicFT1P here is one thread. May not have all the information you need. No videos yet, but I can post links to better information in other threads, and I’m always checking the forum for questions that I can answer.

 

[Texas Mavic]

Hi
Good luck with your mod. I did a Pro with 2 batteries in top of each other myself. I removed the casing for both batteries and my main one with the "smart board" weighted in at 217 g and the "backpack" 213g, some padding added. The bare cells weight 60 grams each. I obtained 15 to 20 km range depending on conditions. But I don`t like to run the batteries all the way down. I would say "safe" is a 13-15 km flight with which I was a bit disappointed. I was hopping for a 18 to 20 km with 15-30% left on return. My total setup weight in at 925 g. The XT 60 connectors and cables add a bit of weight to.

The Mavic Pro has a design flaw which does not work well with added weight. The magnetic field generated by the back motors supplying cables may interfere with the GPS/compass unit located in the back much to close. As we can see with Mavic 2, the unit was moved in the centre of the aircraft.
.
Warning! Your modded Mavic generates higher magnetic fields! Danger of unespected ATTI mode anytime!

From my experience (if you want to go ahead) what I suggest:
-use only low noise propellers, not for less noise but they spin slower for the same given weight.
-do not fly the setup in sport mode unless you are in LOS.
-definitely do not tweak the Mavic for extra speed (tilt angle and vertical up speed).
-If you get "remote high interference" messages, it has noting to do with the remote but with the high current in the motor supplying cables. Reduce speeds!
-re-solder the supplying cables and get ferrite cores on them. This help with the concentration of the magnetic field. Ensure the 3 cables supplying the back motors are twisted around each other (this reduces magnetic interference)-plenty of references on the net about twisted cables. later supplied Mavics had the twisting done in the factory.
-compare (from dat logs) motors PWM and ESC temps of the standard mavic with your setup.
Dangers are PWM close to 100% and much hotter ESC temps than standard setup.

Other things to consider:
Your mavic is less aerodynamic and the batteries are warming less (cold weather flying warning).
Your mavic is more noisy.
If you fly out of range missions you are at risk of losing it due to the unit switching itself to ATTI mode when out of reach. This can happen randomly. Is no rule there but you can help by avoiding high mission speeds and very close to each other waypoints with high altitude differences and headings at 180 degrees from each other. Avoid high winds. If you have Phantom experience remember the Mavic is much more affected by wind.
Also ESC`s are heating more, the motors are stressed more.

I would say the safe weight for a Pro is under 800 G.

I did not made it myself (yet) but I suggest a battery made of six LG 18650 (3ooo mah each ) about 41 g each.
So you end up with up to 6000 mah per cell for a minimal weight increase, your battery should weight in under 300g. Best are Panasonics at 3400 mah but a bit heavier. if you need help with this have a look on the net or ask.
Do not buy any cheap chinese, no brand batteries who claim over 3400 mah!
Do not buy batteries with self protection!

But if range is really your thing why do not consider fixed wing (especially flying wing)?
A drone is a flying rock where a flying wing generates lift with all of its body with minimal drag.

Hi
Good luck with your mod. I did a Pro with 2 batteries in top of each other myself. I removed the casing for both batteries and my main one with the "smart board" weighted in at 217 g and the "backpack" 213g, some padding added. The bare cells weight 60 grams each. I obtained 15 to 20 km range depending on conditions. But I don`t like to run the batteries all the way down. I would say "safe" is a 13-15 km flight with which I was a bit disappointed. I was hopping for a 18 to 20 km with 15-30% left on return. My total setup weight in at 925 g. The XT 60 connectors and cables add a bit of weight to.

The Mavic Pro has a design flaw which does not work well with added weight. The magnetic field generated by the back motors supplying cables may interfere with the GPS/compass unit located in the back much to close. As we can see with Mavic 2, the unit was moved in the centre of the aircraft.
.
Warning! Your modded Mavic generates higher magnetic fields! Danger of unespected ATTI mode anytime!

From my experience (if you want to go ahead) what I suggest:
-use only low noise propellers, not for less noise but they spin slower for the same given weight.
-do not fly the setup in sport mode unless you are in LOS.
-definitely do not tweak the Mavic for extra speed (tilt angle and vertical up speed).
-If you get "remote high interference" messages, it has noting to do with the remote but with the high current in the motor supplying cables. Reduce speeds!
-re-solder the supplying cables and get ferrite cores on them. This help with the concentration of the magnetic field. Ensure the 3 cables supplying the back motors are twisted around each other (this reduces magnetic interference)-plenty of references on the net about twisted cables. later supplied Mavics had the twisting done in the factory.
-compare (from dat logs) motors PWM and ESC temps of the standard mavic with your setup.
Dangers are PWM close to 100% and much hotter ESC temps than standard setup.

Other things to consider:
Your mavic is less aerodynamic and the batteries are warming less (cold weather flying warning).
Your mavic is more noisy.
If you fly out of range missions you are at risk of losing it due to the unit switching itself to ATTI mode when out of reach. This can happen randomly. Is no rule there but you can help by avoiding high mission speeds and very close to each other waypoints with high altitude differences and headings at 180 degrees from each other. Avoid high winds. If you have Phantom experience remember the Mavic is much more affected by wind.
Also ESC`s are heating more, the motors are stressed more.

I would say the safe weight for a Pro is under 800 G.

I did not made it myself (yet) but I suggest a battery made of six LG 18650 (3ooo mah each ) about 41 g each.
So you end up with up to 6000 mah per cell for a minimal weight increase, your battery should weight in under 300g. Best are Panasonics at 3400 mah but a bit heavier. if you need help with this have a look on the net or ask.
Do not buy any cheap chinese, no brand batteries who claim over 3400 mah!
Do not buy batteries with self protection!

But if range is really your thing why do not consider fixed wing (especially flying wing)?
A drone is a flying rock where a flying wing generates lift with all of its body with minimal drag.

Quick question, I bought some batteries that I’m working on making packs with, and on the batteries it says “NK/REdischarging protection circuit” is this the self protection you are talking about? They look like normal cells, idk where a circuit would be unless it’s a micro circuit at the positive end of the cell?