M2P Sharpness Settings

[Sockeye]

With the wohle Pixel-Peeping action regarding the FOV mode, I always was surprised by the strong sharpening artefacts introduced in the footage, even with a sharpness setting of 0.
I started playing around with the HQ mode, always having to fight with the high noise and sharpness flickering. I therefore had a detail look into the consequences of the different sharpness settings.

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Well, sharpness = 0 seems just to be the mid-point of the internal sharpening function. Setting it to -3 gets rid of the most artefacts but does not lose details, especially comparing it to reality. If you look at the leaves or the Grass, sharpness -3 is much more close to reality than higher values, which only cluster bulks of leafs and sharpens these blocks, resulting in artificial looking and flickering backgrounds.

I am not aware of any negative impact in setting the sharpness to -3 (as it was the case for the Mavic 1), or do you see any?
What do you think?

 

[kilomikebravo]

What do you think?

Sockeye: Many thanks for taking the considerable time to put that clip together, MUCH better than I could have done. Been using S -1 lately but after viewing your vid, I'm definitely going to drop back to -2 for now. With my old eyes, -2 SEEMS slightly better than -3.

Thanks again,

KB

 

[Flyguy95r]

With the wohle Pixel-Peeping action regarding the FOV mode, I always was surprised by the strong sharpening artefacts introduced in the footage, even with a sharpness setting of 0.
I started playing around with the HQ mode, always having to fight with the high noise and sharpness flickering. I therefore had a detail look into the consequences of the different sharpness settings.

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Well, sharpness = 0 seems just to be the mid-point of the internal sharpening function. Setting it to -3 gets rid of the most artefacts but does not lose details, especially comparing it to reality. If you look at the leaves or the Grass, sharpness -3 is much more close to reality than higher values, which only cluster bulks of leafs and sharpens these blocks, resulting in artificial looking and flickering backgrounds.

I am not aware of any negative impact in setting the sharpness to -3 (as it was the case for the Mavic 1), or do you see any?
What do you think?

I’m very interested in this, you’re saying this test was in FOV or HQ mode?

 

[Sockeye]

All footage was made in the HQ mode. I am not using FOV any more and am waiting for an update...
(although the noise in HQ really sucks, especially with DLog)

 

[Flyguy95r]

All footage was made in the HQ mode. I am not using FOV any more and am waiting for an update...
(although the noise in HQ really sucks, especially with DLog)

Have you seen this?

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He touches on sharpness and I’m curious after your tests what your thoughts are.

 

[Sockeye]

He touches on sharpness and I’m curious after your tests what your thoughts are.

I know this video and I am mostly with him. (appart from the LUT's and the 100$ Noise reduction software he wants to sell)
Regarding the sharpness, he just says to use 0 or +1, without supplying any reason. (Maybe he just copied the information available for the Mavic 1)

For me, personally using anything then sharpness -3 is a no go, because my footage will be downscaled for 2K DLP anyway and sharpening will be applied as the last step.

 

[Flyguy95r]

I know this video and I am mostly with him. (appart from the LUT's and the 100$ Noise reduction software he wants to sell)
Regarding the sharpness, he just says to use 0 or +1, without supplying any reason. (Maybe he just copied the information available for the Mavic 1)

For me, personally using anything then sharpness -3 is a no go, because my footage will be downscaled to 2K DLP anyway and sharpening will be applied as the last step.

I use unsharp mask in premier pro as part of my post workflow. I’d love to see an internal sharpening vs sharpening in post comparison. I want to go to -3 but it looked so very soft that I’m a bit hesitant, can post sharpening bring even -3 back to decent ranges and cleaner?

 

[Sockeye]

I would say yes. Especially if you downscale, color grade or apply speed changes. Sharpening should always be the last step... of course if you actually change something in post. If you don't you are fine with 0 or +1

 

[Flyguy95r]

I would say yes. Especially if you downscale, color grade or apply speed changes. Sharpening should always be the last step... of course if you actually change something in post. If you don't you are fine with 0 or +1

I totally agree with sharpness being the last step in post. I was just curious is -3 sharpening with added sharpening in post actually works in this case as the M2P is a bit more soft than some of my other cameras when turning in body sharpening down all the way