Mavic 2 Pro Filter Connection

[thegronz]

Thanks KB

I have noticed that I don’t have the same issues with the filter in video as I do in photo. Though I usually shoot both video and photo in the same flight, and I don’t mind the sharp “Soap Opera” effect in video from shooting at 60FPS and no filter. I’d rather suffer a little soap opera than vingyetting and barrel distortion. I guess I need to take a day and find the best settings with an ND4. Truly the Mavic 2 pro does very well for sharp video and responds well to post processing. The skies are deeper blue versus the aqua blue I would run into on the Mavic 1 pro.

Tyfor the heads up! (Old White Guy)

 

[kilomikebravo]

I don’t mind the sharp “Soap Opera” effect in video from shooting at 60FPS

Gronz: perhaps I don’t understand FPS as well as I thought I did. My current understanding is that frame rate is not going to affect exposure as it’s not one of the three corners of the exposure triangle.

So I’m curious what you found to be the best settings for daytime video at 60 FPS? I presume you have ISO at 100 but what shutter speed and aperture settings are you using? I’m guessing you’re stopped down a good bit more than optimal because of the bright daylight and you’re getting softness and difraction from the stopped down aperture.

Therefive, if you’re not using f/4 or very close to it, you need an ND filter and twice your frame rate for shutter speed along with ISO 100.

KB

 

[thegronz]

The frame rate stops the video from the awful Judders. fps just smooths out the video & has no affect on the quality. I do keep the iso at 100 , the Av around 5.6 and the camera makes up for the shudder. I’m going to fly a bit today and I will keep an eye on the shudder, my guess is that is at least 1/120. I’ll let you know how the photos come out at 3.2 Av and the shudder settings for both pics and vids

 

[kilomikebravo]

Roger that, G but I can’t remember what you said about filters. Do you have any? If so, and if you have an ND16 or an ND32, put one of those on before you start testing. Or, after you do the tests you have in mind. Put the camera in Manual mode, set ISO at 100, and shutter speed at twice your frame rate, (try 24, 25, or 30fps for this part of the test.)

Now drag the aperture (or roll the right wheel) to f/4 and look at your EV meter. If it’s way in the plus, you need a darker ND filter. But depending on the light, an ND16 might actually be close to 0ev at f/4.

Finally, tap the flower at the bottom of the focus grid and you should be good to go.

I’m sure I’ve missed something or my instructions were lousy but I hope you get the idea. For sure images will be sharper at f/4 than at f/5.6 and that should apply to both stills and video.

KB

 

[thegronz]

Roger that, G but I can’t remember what you said about filters. Do you have any? If so, and if you have an ND16 or an ND32, put one of those on before you start testing. Or, after you do the tests you have in mind. Put the camera in Manual mode, set ISO at 100, and shutter speed at twice your frame rate, (try 24, 25, or 30fps for this part of the test.)

Now drag the aperture (or roll the right wheel) to f/4 and look at your EV meter. If it’s way in the plus, you need a darker ND filter. But depending on the light, an ND16 might actually be close to 0ev at f/4.

Finally, tap the flower at the bottom of the focus grid and you should be good to go.

I’m sure I’ve missed something or my instructions were lousy but I hope you get the idea. For sure images will be sharper at f/4 than at f/5.6 and that should apply to both stills and video.

KB

I always thought the flower was “macro” I just shot some photo and video at f3.2 shudder 1/2000 fps 60 going in to review photos and vids also used litchi and DJI go 4 I’ll post links

 

[thegronz]

Roger that, G but I can’t remember what you said about filters. Do you have any? If so, and if you have an ND16 or an ND32, put one of those on before you start testing. Or, after you do the tests you have in mind. Put the camera in Manual mode, set ISO at 100, and shutter speed at twice your frame rate, (try 24, 25, or 30fps for this part of the test.)

Now drag the aperture (or roll the right wheel) to f/4 and look at your EV meter. If it’s way in the plus, you need a darker ND filter. But depending on the light, an ND16 might actually be close to 0ev at f/4.

Finally, tap the flower at the bottom of the focus grid and you should be good to go.

I’m sure I’ve missed something or my instructions were lousy but I hope you get the idea. For sure images will be sharper at f/4 than at f/5.6 and that should apply to both stills and video.

KB

I do have nd4 ,16 32 however I was getting barrel distortion in pics so don’t use them I just shot some video on photo at F 3.2 shutter at one /2000 ISL at 100

 

[thegronz]

I do have nd4 ,16 32 however I was getting barrel distortion in pics so don’t use them I just shot some video on photo at F 3.2 shutter at one /2000 ISL at 100

KB what does the flower do? Is that for pics or vids? I shot F3.2 with a shutter speed of 2000 ISO of 100 videos came out looking good photos have excellent detail I’m gonna go ahead and try putting a nd4 filter on and getting back up there with F3.2 and F5. I will post links to the photo and video

 

[thegronz]

KB here is the video

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Here are the pics both shot at f3.2 Tv 1/2000 ISO 100. Will post with filter in a while

Pics: test pics - Google Drive

 

[thegronz]

Here is the pic with the Filter on, f4.0 Tv 1/200 ISO 100. Much softer with less detail. I'm gonna take it up once more with the ND 4 on at f3.2 and see how it looks, if not I think I will keep the ND off.

test pics - Google Drive

Here is the vid.

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[thegronz]

Gronz: perhaps I don’t understand FPS as well as I thought I did. My current understanding is that frame rate is not going to affect exposure as it’s not one of the three corners of the exposure triangle.

So I’m curious what you found to be the best settings for daytime video at 60 FPS? I presume you have ISO at 100 but what shutter speed and aperture settings are you using? I’m guessing you’re stopped down a good bit more than optimal because of the bright daylight and you’re getting softness and difraction from the stopped down aperture.

Therefive, if you’re not using f/4 or very close to it, you need an ND filter and twice your frame rate for shutter speed along with ISO 100.

KB

I'll be a son-of-a-gun you are right! f3.2 gives the sharpest pics. Thanks for the info KB

 

[kilomikebravo]

Glad you found out what you needed G don’t you love it when that happens? And I’m no camera genius by any stretch of the imagination, I just gave you the numbers I read about and tried in the aircraft, they work.

KB

 

[kilomikebravo]

however I was getting barrel distortion

AFAIK, the only time you will get lens distortion is if you shoot in one of the LOG modes. There should be no barrel distortion in Normal.

 

[kilomikebravo]

KB what does the flower do?

Before the firmware update, the Infinity symbol was down at the bottom of the focus grid and the flower was on the top, or at least that's what I remember.

Anyway, for some reason, (I THINK) DJI swapped them in the update, who knows why. Bottom line is, when you tap it, it really does focus to infinity (or nearly so,) and the focus mark should be right around two notches down from the top.

That's generally how I focus when I'm hovering high after takeoff, then I pan around to see if it really is in focus.

Off to view your photos and vid now that I'm at a decent display and not my phone.

KB

 

[thegronz]

Glad you found out what you needed G don’t you love it when that happens? And I’m no camera genius by any stretch of the imagination, I just gave you the numbers I read about and tried in the aircraft, they work.

KB

Yes the sharpness is incredibly amazing! For vids I’m using f2.3 shutter 1/500 ISO 100 and the photo will be similar and I will have to dial in the Tv based on the need for both pic and vid.

Thanks again I would have never known that I can get such sharpness on this drone

 

[thegronz]

Before the firmware update, the Infinity symbol was down at the bottom of the focus grid and the flower was on the top, or at least that's what I remember.

Anyway, for some reason, (I THINK) DJI swapped them in the update, who knows why. Bottom line is, when you tap it, it really does focus to infinity (or nearly so,) and the focus mark should be right around two notches down from the top.

That's generally how I focus when I'm hovering high after takeoff, then I pan around to see if it really is in focus.

Off to view your photos and vid now that I'm at a decent display and not my phone.

KB

Great I will start to use it.

 

[thegronz]

AFAIK, the only time you will get lens distortion is if you shoot in one of the LOG modes. There should be no barrel distortion in Normal.

I discovered the barrel distortion words coming from my HD our editor. I am now editing my RAW photos in Photoshop and it’s working perfectly.

 

[thegronz]

Roger that, G but I can’t remember what you said about filters. Do you have any? If so, and if you have an ND16 or an ND32, put one of those on before you start testing. Or, after you do the tests you have in mind. Put the camera in Manual mode, set ISO at 100, and shutter speed at twice your frame rate, (try 24, 25, or 30fps for this part of the test.)

Now drag the aperture (or roll the right wheel) to f/4 and look at your EV meter. If it’s way in the plus, you need a darker ND filter. But depending on the light, an ND16 might actually be close to 0ev at f/4.

Finally, tap the flower at the bottom of the focus grid and you should be good to go.

I’m sure I’ve missed something or my instructions were lousy but I hope you get the idea. For sure images will be sharper at f/4 than at f/5.6 and that should apply to both stills and video.

KB

KB

Did you see any flickering in my vids? Is there an exposure lock?

 

[thegronz]

KB

Did you see any flickering in my vids? Is there an exposure lock?

I found the AE lock.

 

[kilomikebravo]

G: Just took some close looks at both your stills and video and I'm going to give you my honest opinions but as always, just about everything regarding imagery is subjective to the max.

First, you were most definitely not in focus on the f/4 still. The Go4/Litchi stills look almost identical except the sun came out brighter in the Litchi shot.

In those two, I personally think that the contrast is a wee bit too high, (difficult when the sun is very, very bright,) and a bit over-saturated, at least to my taste. And, I believe they could be sharper. What are your custom sharpness, saturation, and contrast settings?

I think the stills could be clearer if you would just try my suggestion. From the looks of it, it was quite sunny so I would have put an ND32 on and I'd bet with ISO 100 / 24fps / 1/50th ss, the correct aperture would be very near f/4. It's been shown that going more than a stop away from that definitely softens the image, still or video. So just try getting away from that much too high shutter speed (I can see the jittering in your vid because of it,) and give the numbers above with an ND32 a shot tomorrow. I think..no, I know you'll be even more excited about the crispyness. (is that even a werd?)

Here is a shot that I took at the beach for the sole purpose of checking the lens focus.

Beach Photo - OneDrive

To me, that shot looks sharper but, the foliage IS closer. Let me find one a bit further away.

Here's one. Perhaps it's just my brain WANTING mine to look sharper but I honestly think they do.

M2P Still - OneDrive

And BTW, I always download images when someone puts a link to a cloud account because I have no idea what the image viewer chosen is doing when you click on the image. I open the downloaded file in Photoshop and immediately zoom to a hundred percent.

Standing by for more... <smile>

KB

 

[thegronz]

G: Just took some close looks at both your stills and video and I'm going to give you my honest opinions but as always, just about everything regarding imagery is subjective to the max.

First, you were most definitely not in focus on the f/4 still. The Go4/Litchi stills look almost identical except the sun came out brighter in the Litchi shot.

In those two, I personally think that the contrast is a wee bit too high, (difficult when the sun is very, very bright,) and a bit over-saturated, at least to my taste. And, I believe they could be sharper. What are your custom sharpness, saturation, and contrast settings?

I think the stills could be clearer if you would just try my suggestion. From the looks of it, it was quite sunny so I would have put an ND32 on and I'd bet with ISO 100 / 24fps / 1/50th ss, the correct aperture would be very near f/4. It's been shown that going more than a stop away from that definitely softens the image, still or video. So just try getting away from that much too high shutter speed (I can see the jittering in your vid because of it,) and give the numbers above with an ND32 a shot tomorrow. I think..no, I know you'll be even more excited about the crispyness. (is that even a werd?)

Here is a shot that I took at the beach for the sole purpose of checking the lens focus.

Beach Photo - OneDrive

To me, that shot looks sharper but, the foliage IS closer. Let me find one a bit further away.

Here's one. Perhaps it's just my brain WANTING mine to look sharper but I honestly think they do.

M2P Still - OneDrive

And BTW, I always download images when someone puts a link to a cloud account because I have no idea what the image viewer chosen is doing when you click on the image. I open the downloaded file in Photoshop and immediately zoom to a hundred percent.

Standing by for more... <smile>

KB

Thanks KB I will take your advice and give it a try tomorrow afternoon. Yes I tweaked the contrast and haze removal in post processing. My camera settings are “Landscape”.I do like the crispy look in photos but can settle for more softness in vid. I hate when the roof tiles are fuzzy or redrawing when playing a vid. The strongest ND filter is 16. What do you think the fastest shutter should be at f2.8 in both vid and pic? Your shots are incredible!!!

Thanks again for your help KD